
Transept and crossing tower of York Minster from the south east.
'York Minster' is the largest
Gothic cathedral in northern
Europe and is situated in the city of
York in
Northern England. It is the seat of the
Archbishop of York (the second highest office of the
Church of England), and cathedral for the
Diocese of York, and is run by a Dean and Chapter under the
Dean of York. Its formal title is ''The Cathedral and Metropolitical Church of St Peter in York.''
It has a very wide
Decorated Gothic nave and chapter house, a
Perpendicular Gothic choir and east end, and
Early English north and south transepts. The nave contains the West Window, constructed in
1338, and over the Lady Chapel in the east end is the Great East Window, (finished in
1408), the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world. In the north
transept is the Five Sisters Window, each
lancet being over 16 metres high. The south transept contains the famous
Rose window.
History

The cathedral's western front
York has had a
Christian presence from the
300s. The first
church on the site was a wooden structure built hurriedly in
627 to provide a place to
baptise Edwin, King of
Northumbria. Moves toward a more substantial building began in the
630s. A stone structure was completed in
637 by
Oswald and was dedicated to
Saint Peter. The church soon fell into disrepair and was dilapidated by
670 when
Saint Wilfrid ascended to the see of York; he put in place efforts to repair and renew the structure. The attached school and library were established and by the
8th century were some of the most substantial in northern Europe.
In
741 the church was destroyed in a fire. It was rebuilt as a more impressive structure, containing thirty
altars. The church and the entire area then passed through the hands of numerous invaders, and its history is obscure until the
10th century. There was a series of
Benedictine archbishops, including Saint Oswald, Wulfstan, and
Ealdred, who travelled to
Westminster to crown
William in
1066. Ealdred died in
1069 and was buried in the church.

Interior of York Minster
The church was damaged in 1069, but the first
Norman archbishop, arriving in
1070, organised repairs. The Danes destroyed the church in
1075, but it was again rebuilt from
1080. Built in the
Norman style, it was 365 feet long and rendered in white and red lines. The new structure was damaged by fire in
1137 but was soon repaired. The choir and crypt were remodelled in
1154, and a new
chapel was built, all in the Norman style.
The
Gothic style in cathedrals had arrived in the mid
12th century.
Walter de Gray was made archbishop in
1215 and ordered the construction of a Gothic structure to compare to
Canterbury; building began in
1220. The north and south transepts were the first new structures; completed in the
1250s, both were built in the Early English Gothic style but had markedly different walls. A substantial
central tower was also completed, with a wooden
spire. Building continued into the
15th century.
The Chapter House was begun in the
1260s, and it was completed before
1296. The wide nave was constructed from the
1280s on the Norman foundations. The outer roof was completed in the
1330s, but the vaulting was not finished until
1360. Construction then moved on to the eastern arm and chapels, with the last Norman structure, the choir, being demolished in the
1390s. Work here finished around
1405. In
1407 the central tower collapsed; the piers were then reinforced, and a new tower was built from
1420. The western towers were added between
1433 and
1472. The cathedral was declared complete and
consecrated in
1472.
The
Reformation led to the first
Protestant archbishop, the looting of much of the cathedral's treasures, and the loss of much of the church lands. Under
Elizabeth I there was a concerted effort to remove all traces of
Catholicism from the cathedral; there was much destruction of tombs, windows, and altars. In the
English Civil War the city was besieged and fell to the forces of
Cromwell in
1644, but
Thomas Fairfax prevented any further damage to the cathedral.
Following the easing of religious tensions there was some work to restore the cathedral. From
1730 to
1736 the whole floor of the Minster was relaid in patterned
marble, and from
1802 there was a major restoration. However, on
2 February 1829 an
arson attack by
non-conformist Jonathan Martin (
[1];
[2];
[3]) inflicted heavy damage on the east arm, and an accidental fire in
1840 left the nave, south west tower, and south aisle roofless, blackened shells. The cathedral slumped deeply into debt, and in the
1850s services were suspended, but from
1858 Augustus Duncome worked successfully to revive the cathedral.
During the
20th century there was more concerted preservation work, especially following a
1967 survey that revealed the building, in particular the central tower, was close to collapse. £2,000,000 was raised and spent by
1972 to reinforce and strengthen the building foundations and roof. During the excavations that were carried out, remains of the north corner of the Roman Principia were found under the south transept. A fire in
1984 destroyed the roof in the south transept, and around £2.5 million was spent on repairs. Restoration work was completed in 1988, and included new
roof bosses to designs which had won a competition organised by
BBC Television's
Blue Peter programme. In 2007 renovation began on the east front, including the Great East Window, at an estimated cost of £23 million.
Architecture of the present building
''For standard descriptions of Cathedral architecture and design, see
Cathedral diagram''.
York Minster is the largest
Gothic cathedral of Northern Europe and clearly charts the development of English Gothic architecture from
Early English through to the
Perpendicular Period. The present building was begun in about
1230 and completed in
1472. It has a
cruciform plan with an octagonal
chapter house attached to the north transept, a central tower and two towers at the west front. The stone used for the building is
magnesian limestone, a creamy-white coloured rock that was quarried in nearby
Tadcaster. The Minster is 148 metres long and each of its three towers are 60 metres high. The choir, which has an interior height of 31 metres, is only surpassed in height in England by the choir of
Westminster Abbey.
The North and South
transepts were the first parts of the new church to be built. They have simple
lancet windows, the most famous being the ''Five Sisters'' in the north transept. These are five lancets, each 16m high and glazed with grey (
grisaille) glass, rather than narrative scenes or symbolic motifs that are usually seen in medieval stained glass windows. In the south transept is the famous
Rose Window whose glass dates from about
1500 and commemorates the union of the royal houses of
York and
Lancaster. The roofs of the transepts are of wood, that of the south transept was burnt in the fire of
1984 and was replaced in the restoration work which was completed in
1988. New designs were used for the
bosses, five of which were designed by winners of a competition organised by the
BBC's
Blue Peter television programme.
Work began on the
chapter house and its vestibule that links it to the north transept after the transepts were completed. The style of the chapter house is of the early
Decorated Period where geometric patterns were used in the tracery of the windows, which were wider than those of early styles. However, the work was completed before the appearance of the
ogee curve, an S-shaped double curve which was extensively used at the end of this period. The windows cover almost all of the upper wall space, filling the chapter house with light. The chapter house is octagonal, as is the case in many cathedrals, but is notable in that it has no central column supporting the roof. The wooden roof, which was of an innovative design, is light enough to be able to be supported by the
buttressed walls. The chapter house has many sculptured heads above the canopies, representing some of the finest Gothic sculpture in the country. There are human heads, no two alike, and some pulling faces; angels; animals and grotesques. Unique to the transepts and chapter house is the use of Purbeck marble to adorn the piers, adding to the richness of decoration.

The choir screen.
The
nave was built between
1291 and c.
1350 and is also in the decorated Gothic style. It is the widest Gothic nave in England and has a wooden roof (painted so as to appear like stone) and the aisles have vaulted stone roofs. At its west end is the ''Great West Window'', known as the 'Heart of Yorkshire' which features flowing tracery of the later decorated gothic period.
The East end of the Minster was built between
1361 and
1405 in the
Perpendicular Gothic style. Despite the change in style, noticeable in details such as the tracery and capitals, the eastern arm preserves the pattern of the nave. The east end contains a four bay choir; a second set of transepts, projecting only above half-height; and the Lady Chapel. The transepts are in line with the
high altar and serve to through light onto it. Behind the high altar is the ''Great East Window'', the largest expanse of medieval stained glass in the world.
The sparsely decorated ''Central Tower'' was built between
1407 and
1472 and is also in the Perpendicular style. Below this, separating the choir from the crossing and nave is the striking fifteenth century
choir screen. It contains sculptures of the kings of England from
William the Conqueror to
Henry VI with stone and
gilded canopies set against a red background. Above the screen is the organ, which dates from
1832. The West Towers, in contrast with the central tower, are heavily decorated and are topped with battlements and eight pinnacles each, again in the Perpendicular style.
Stained glass

West window of York Minster
York as a whole and particularly the Minster have a long tradition of creating beautiful
stained glass. Some of the stained glass in York Minster dates back to the
twelfth century. The 76-foot tall Great East Window, created in the early
fifteenth century, is the largest example of
medieval stained glass in the world. Other spectacular windows in the Minster include an ornate
rose window and the fifty-foot tall ''five sisters'' window. Because of the extended time periods during which the glass was installed, different types of
glazing and painting techniques that evolved over hundreds of years are visible in the different windows. There are approximately 2 million individual pieces of glass that make up the cathedral's 128 stained glass windows. Much of the glass was removed and pieced back together for the
first and
second world wars, and the windows are constantly being cleaned and restored to keep their beauty intact.
The towers and bells
The two west towers of the minster hold
bells and clock chimes. The north-west tower contains Great Peter (216
cwt or 10.8
tons) and the six clock bells (the largest weighing just over 60
cwt or 3
tons). The south-west tower holds 14 bells (tenor 59
cwt) hung for
change ringing and 11 chiming bells (tenor 23
cwt) which are rung from a clavier in the ringing chamber.
The clock bells ring every quarter of an hour during the daytime and Great Peter strikes the hour. The
change ringing bells are rung regularly on Sundays before
Church Services and at other times, the ringers practice on Tuesday evenings. The chiming bells are occasionally rung before services.
Organ
The fire of
1829 destroyed the organ and the basis of the present organ dates from
1832, when Elliot and Hill constructed a new instrument. This organ was reconstructed in
1859 by William Hill and Sons. The case remained intact, but a large amount of new pipework was introduced.
In 1901, J.W. Walker and Sons undertook reconstruction. Walkers added a considerable amount of new pipework.
A small amount of work was undertaken in
1915 by
Harrison & Harrison and the famous Tuba Mirabilis was added. Other minor work was undertaken in fits and starts by the same firm until
1928.
In
1961 J.W. Walker rebuilt it and it was cleaned in
1982. The fire of
1984 affected the Organ but not irreparably. The damage hastened the time for a major restoration. This was begun in
1991 and finished one year later by Geoffrey Coffin who had at one time been Assistant Organist at the Minster.
Details of the organ from the National Pipe Organ Register
Organists
★ 1633 James Hutchinson
★ 1662 J.H.Charles
★ 1667 Thomas Preston
★ 1691 Thomas Wanless
★ 1695 J.Heath
★ 1715 Charles Burgatroyd
★ 1721 William Davies
|
★ 1722 Charles Quarles
★ 1734 James Nares
★ 1756 John Camidge
★ 1799 Matthew Camidge
★ 1842 John Camidge
★ 1848 Thomas Simpson Camidge
★ 1859 Edwin George Monk
|
★ 1883 John Naylor
★ 1897 T. Tertius Noble
★ 1913 Edward Bairstow
★ 1946 Francis Jackson
★ 1983 Philip Moore
|
From 2001 the person traditionally referred to as the ''Organist'' is called the ''Master of the Music''.
John Scott Whiteley is Organist and Director of the Girls' Choir.
Superstitions
It is believed that for many years there has been a ghost of J.H. Charles, one of the former organists, who fell to his death while cleaning the valves of the church's organ. Some have claimed to have seem him in person, later to recognise him from the church portraits kept from the time. Others say that you can hear him playing hymns late at night. This is just one of the hundreds of myths that have come to get York the title of the most haunted city in the world.
Astronomical clock
The
astronomical clock was installed in the North Transept of York Minster in 1955. The clock is a memorial to the airmen operating from bases in Yorkshire, Durham, and Northumberland who were killed in action during World War 2.
Illuminations

The West Door, illuminated in December 2005
In November 2002, York Minster was illuminated in colour for the first time in its history. The occasion was televised live on BBC1
Look North and was devised by York-born Mark Brayshaw who runs an event management company. The illuminations were also covered in the national press by ''
The Guardian'' and ''
The Independent'' as well as locally and regionally. Similar illuminations have been projected over the Christmas period in subsequent years.
York Minster was also artistically illuminated on the
November 5 2005, celebrating the 400th anniversary of the foiling of York born
Guy Fawkes' gunpowder plot. This was done by
Patrice Warrener using his unique "chromolithe" technique with which he 'paints' with light, picking out sculpted architectural details.
Photo gallery
See also
★
Archbishop's Palace, Bishopthorpe
References
★
York Minster, , Ann, Willey, Scala, 1998, ISBN 1-85-759188-7
★
Stained Glass at York Minster, , Sarah, Brown, Scala in association with the Dean and Chapter of York, 1999, ISBN 1-85-759219-0
★
Yorkshire: York and the East Riding, , Nikolaus, Pevsner, Penguin Books, 1995, ISBN 0-14-071061-2
External links
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York Minster
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Photo essay on interior of York Minster
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Images of York Minster
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York Minster Photos and info
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VR York Tour Virtual Tour of York Minster - view the interior and exterior of the Minster in York
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York Minster Society of Change Ringers
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York Minster, Quicktime image
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Photos
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A history of the choristers of York Minster
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''The Guardian'' Christmas illuminations
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Beautiful Office Views of York Minster
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The Cathedral Church of York, 1899, by A. Clutton-Brock, from
Project Gutenberg