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The white cliffs of Dover

The location and extent of the white cliffs of Dover.

The cliffs seen across the channel from
Cap Gris Nez, France
The 'white cliffs of Dover', are
cliffs which form part of the
British coastline facing the
Strait of Dover and
France. The cliffs are part of the
North Downs formation. The cliff face, which reaches up to 350 feet high, owes its striking façade to its composition of
chalk (pure white
calcium carbonate) accentuated by streaks of black
flint. The cliffs spread east and west from the
town of Dover in the county of
Kent, an ancient and still important
English port.
The cliffs have great symbolic value for Britain because they face towards
Continental Europe across the narrowest part of the English Channel, where invasions have historically threatened and against which the cliffs form a symbolic guard. Because crossing at Dover was the primary route to the continent before air travel, the white line of cliffs also formed the first (or last) sight of the UK for travellers.
Location
The cliffs are located along the coastline between approximately:
Latitude 51°06'N, Longitude 1°14'E and
Latitude 51°12'N, Longitude 1°24'E.
Shakespeare Cliff marks the point where
England most closely approaches continental
Europe. On a clear day, the cliffs are easily visible from the French coast.
Geology

Evidence of erosion along the cliff top
The cliffs are composed mainly of
coccoliths and trace their origins to the
Cretaceous Period, approximately 136 million years ago, when the area between Britain in the west and Sweden/Poland in the east was submerged under deep tropical waters. Subjected to the great pressures of the sea, the emptied skeletons of
coral,
sponges and other small sea creatures turned to
sediment and began to accumulate on the ocean floor. By approximately 70 million years ago, this process had formed a mass of
silica-specked chalk covering huge areas between Britain and the Baltic Sea — white cliffs like those of Dover (but smaller) are also found on the Danish islands of Mon and Langeland or the coasts of the island of Rügen in Germany. The chalk layer used to lay high above sea level during the ice ages and in many places additionally was covered with glaciers. After the ice ages, they were exposed to the rising sea. Owing to the exceptional softness of chalk, tidal forces have since then significantly eroded this land mass away, in Dover to form the
English Channel.
The cliff face continues to
erode at an average rate of one centimetre per year, although occasionally— most recently in 2001— large chunks of the edge, up to several metres at once, will fall into the channel with little warning. Visitors are therefore urged to remain at least five metres back from the edge.
Ecology

Close up of the cliffs from the walk along the ridge
Several species of cliff nesting birds nest on the cliff face, including,
fulmar and colonies of
Black-legged Kittiwake.
However, contrary to the words of the famous song ("There'll be bluebirds over the white cliffs of Dover"),
bluebirds are an American species not found in the UK.
Defence
Behind the cliff face are miles of hidden tunnels that were created during the
Middle Ages and later played a role in the defence of Britain during the
Napoleonic Wars. The tunnels were later enlarged to become the Secret Wartime Tunnels beneath
Dover castle.
References in culture
In
Matthew Arnold's 1867 poem "
Dover Beach", the cliffs are a sign of reassuring strength.
Rudyard Kipling's 1902 poem "
The Broken Men" ends with the lines "How stands the old
Lord Warden? Are Dover's cliffs still white?" to represent the English exiles' homesickness. The most iconic reference is perhaps the
World War II song, sung by
Vera Lynn, "
(There'll Be Bluebirds Over) The White Cliffs of Dover".
Other people to cover the song or sing about the white cliffs include
Glenn Miller,
Kaye Kyser,
Kate Smith,
Blur, in the song "Clover Over Dover";
The Decemberists,
Louis Prima,
Clutch,
Andrew Bird, and
Fatboy Slim. Other poetry includes
Alice Duer Miller's "The White Cliffs", on which the 1944 film ''
The White Cliffs of Dover'' was based. The cliffs are also mentioned in
Jimmy Cliff's hit
Many Rivers to Cross.
Virtuoso guitarist
Eric Johnson wrote a well-known composition called "Cliffs of Dover."
In a 2005
poll of ''
Radio Times'' readers, the cliffs were named as the 3rd greatest natural wonder in Britain.
See also
.JPG)
South Foreland lighthouse above the cliffs at Dover
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Seven Sisters, Sussex
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Beachy Head
References
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Dover Museum information on the cliffs