'Whitby' is a historic town in
North Yorkshire on the north-east coast of
England. Nowadays it is a
fishing port and tourist destination. It is situated 47 miles from
York, at 54 deg. 29 min. 24 sec. north
latitude, and 35 min. 59 sec. west
longitude, at the mouth of the
River Esk and spreads up the steep sides of the narrow valley carved out by the river's course. At this point the coast curves round, so the town faces more north than east.
History
Many interesting fossils have been found in the Whitby area including entire skeletons of
pterodactyls. Whitby is known for its well preserved
ammonite fossils, which can sometimes be found on the seashore, or purchased from any number of stalls or shops in town.

Whitby Abbey from pond
Saxon Whitby
In about
657,
Oswiu or Oswy, the Christian king of
Northumbria, fulfilled a vow by founding a monastery there.
Faced in
655 with the mighty army of
Penda, the
pagan king of
Mercia, which greatly outnumbered his own, Oswiu asked God to grant him victory, promising to consecrate his infant daughter Ælflæda to the service of God and to give land to found monasteries. Penda and most of his nobles were killed in the battle. Oswiu honoured his pledges by granting 12 small estates of 10 hides each in various places for monasteries to be built. One of them was at ''Streanæshealh'', later known as
Whitby Abbey. This was the house that Ælflæda herself entered as a pupil and of which she later became abbess.
[1]
The first abbess was
Hilda, a remarkable figure, later venerated as a saint. Under her influence, Whitby became a centre of learning, and the poetry of
Cædmon is amongst the earliest examples of
Anglo-Saxon literature. It was the leading royal nunnery of
Deira, and the burial-place of its royal family. The
Synod of Whitby, in
664, established the
Roman date of
Easter in Northumbria at the expense of the
Celtic one, an important and influential decision.
[2]
In
867,
Danish Vikings landed two miles west of Whitby at
Raven's Hill, and moved on to attack the settlement and to destroy the monastery. It was only after the
Norman Conquest of
1066 that
William de Percy ordered that the monastery be refounded (1078), dedicating it to St. Peter and St. Hilda. Later it became Presteby (meaning ''the habitation of Priests'' in
Old Norse) then Hwytby; next Whiteby, (meaning the "white settlement" in
Old Norse, probably from the colour of the houses) and finally Whitby.

Whitby Abbey
Late Medieval and Tudor period
According to Langdale's ''Yorkshire Dictionary'' (1822) and Baine's ''Directory of the County of York'' (1823), even up to the reign of
Elizabeth I Whitby was little more than a small fishing port. In
1540, it had consisted of only around twenty to thirty houses and had a population of about two hundred inhabitants. In that year
Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries, including Whitby Abbey.
At the end of the 16th century,
Thomas Chaloner of York travelled to
Italy and visited the
alum works the
Pope. He recognised that the rock from which the alum was made was identical to that abundant in several areas in and around his
Guisborough estate in North Yorkshire. Alum was a very important product at that time, used internationally, in curing
leather, fixing dyed cloths and for medicinal uses. Up to this period the
Vatican had maintained a virtual monopoly on the production and sale of the product.
Chaloner secretly brought some of the Pope's workmen to England, and over the following years developed a thriving alum industry in Yorkshire. (It is said that this development significantly lowered the international price of alum, impacting the profitability of a traditional source of revenue for the Vatican, and that Chaloner was
excommunicated).
Whitby Abbey and St Mary's Church
Over the centuries, the town spread both inland and onto the West Cliff, whilst the East Cliff (sometimes called the Haggerlythe) remains dominated by the ruins of
Whitby Abbey and St Mary's Church. It is quite a distance to reach the East Cliff by road, the alternative being to climb the 199 steps, which are famed enough that many who make the climb can be heard counting on the way up. 2006 saw the completion of the first major restoration of the 199 steps since the 19th century, when they were changed from wooden "stairs" to stone steps. In an attempt to raise funds, each step was sponsored for £1,000 by locals and visitors alike. The culmination of this project was a service at St Mary's Church on Sunday
1 October 2006. To commemorate the occasion, each step features a page dedicated to its sponsor in a book that is currently available, on request, at the church.
In St Mary's Church is a memorial to
General Peregrine Lascelles. He was a native of Whitby who died in 1772, and his epitaph in St Mary's reads:

Epitaph to General Peregrine Lascelles
West Cliff
West Cliff has its own landmarks — a statue of Captain
James Cook, who sailed from the town, and a
whalebone arch, commemorating the once large whaling industry. There is also a new
science museum —
Whitby Wizard. The whalebone arch is the second to stand on this spot, the original (a larger version) is now preserved in Whitby Archives Heritage Centre. By the inner harbour, next to the tourist information office, there is also a statue commemorating
William Scoresby, inventor of the
crow's nest.
Modern history (since 1605)

Whitby's twin piers

Aerial photo showing the River Esk flowing into the North Sea at Whitby
Among the resulting alum producing centres, several were established close to Whitby, including that near Sandsend (now
Sandsend Ness), just three miles from the town, in
1615. With this, two new, rapidly growing activities were promoted in the port of Whitby, the transport of the alum itself and that of the coal necessary for its production.
With this, the town's wealth increased and Whitby began to grow, extending its activities to include
shipbuilding, using the local
oak as raw material. Taxes on imports entering via the port raised the necessary finance to improve and extend the town's twin piers, thereby improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade.
In
1753 the first
whaling ship set sail from Whitby to
Greenland. This initiated a new phase in the town's development, and by
1795 Whitby had become a major centre for the
whaling industry.
Whitby was the site of the ''
Rohilla'' disaster of
October 30 1914; when the hospital ship ''Rohilla'' was sunk (either by running aground, or hitting a mine; accounts differ) within sight of shore just off Whitby. Eighty-five people lost their lives in the disaster; most of them are buried in the churchyard at Whitby.
Also in 1914, Whitby was shelled by German battlecruisers
''Von der Tann'' and
''Derfflinger'', aiming for the signal post on the end of the headland.
Scarborough and
Hartlepool were also attacked. Whitby Abbey sustained considerable damage during the attack.
Present day Whitby

Present day Whitby
The modern Port of Whitby, strategically placed for shipping to
Europe, with very good proximity to the
Scandinavian countries, is capable of handling a wide range of cargoes, including grain, steel products, timber and
potash. Vessels of up to 3,000 tonnes DWT are received on a routine basis at the Wharf, which has the capability of loading/unloading two ships simultaneously. 5,000 sq metres of dock space is currently (2004) allocated for storage of all-weather cargo and a further 1,600 sq metres of warehouse space is reserved for weather-critical goods storage.
The town is served by
Whitby railway station which forms the terminus of the
Esk Valley Line from
Middlesbrough, formerly the northern terminus of the Whitby,
Pickering and
York line. Whitby is also served by the Yorkshire Coastliner bus line, which can take travellers to and from Leeds, Tadcaster, York, Scarborough, Bridlington, Pickering, Malton and many more towns in Yorkshire.
The town was awarded "Best Seaside Resort 2006", by ''
Which? Holiday'' magazine.
The town's college, Whitby Community College has recently expanded with a brand new Design and Technology, however it lost its speciality status due to being placed under special measures, this has now been rescinded as of March 2007.
Whitby has a
fish market on the quayside, which is not set to any particular day of the week, instead taking place when the need arises.
[3] This ready supply of fresh fish has resulted in an abundance of "
chippies" in the town.
Whitby jet

Whitby east cliff
The black mineral
jet (black amber) is found in the cliffs around Whitby, and has been used since the Bronze Age to make beads and other
jewellery. The Romans mined jet extensively, and Whitby jet was at the peak of its popularity in the mid-19th century, especially after it was favoured as mourning jewellery by
Queen Victoria.
Whitby Museum holds a large collection on the archaeological and social history of jet. It also displays a “
hand of glory”.
Whitby and literature

Whitby from Abbey graveyard
One unusual feature of Whitby is the
Dracula Museum - a large portion of
Bram Stoker's famous novel was set in Whitby, describing Dracula's arrival in Britain on a ship washed ashore in the harbour, and how Lucy watched from the churchyard as the sun set over the nearby headland of Kettleness, but did not know how many steps she climbed to get there. Stoker's story incorporated various pieces of Whitby folklore, including the beaching of the
Russian ship ''Dmitri'', which became the basis of ''Demeter'' in the book.
The novel ''
Caedmon's Song'' by
Peter Robinson plays in Whitby, too. Whitby also features significantly in the novel '', by
A. S. Byatt.
Michel Faber's novel, ''The Hundred and Ninety Nine Steps'' is also set in Whitby.
Whitby also appears rather prominently in The Resurrectionists, written by
Kim Wilkins.
Robin Jarvis has written many children's fantasy novels set in Whitby, as well.
Events
Whitby Regatta occurs once a year for three days in August. Originally a local rowing competition, over the years it has expanded to include events such as a fair on the pier, police dog demonstrations, fireworks and military displays - including the spectacle of the
Red Arrows.
Each year, on the eve of
Ascension Day, the
Penny Hedge ceremony is performed.
For at least the last two decades the town has hosted the
Whitby Folk Week, which currently includes around 600 different events in various venues.
Whitby also hosts the bi-annual
Whitby Gothic Weekend, a festival for members of the
goth subculture.
The town has played host to
Musicport, an annual world music festival, since the late 1990s.
Sister cities
★
Anchorage, Alaska,
United States
★
Porirua ,
New Zealand
★
Stanley, Falkland Islands
★
Whitby, Ontario,
Canada
★
Nuku'alofa,
Tonga
See also
★
Synod of Whitby
★
Whitby Town F.C.
★
Whitby Gazette
★
Esk Valley Line
Further reading
★ Andrew White - ''A History of Whitby'' (2004) ISBN 1-86077-306-0
★ Rosalin Barker - "The Book Of Whitby" (1990) ISBN 0 86023 462 2
★ Colin Waters - " Whitby, A Pictorial History" ISBN0 85033 848 4
★ Colin Waters - " A History of Whitby's Pubs, Inns & Taverns" (1992) ISBN 0 9519 238 03
★ Cordelia Stamp- " Whitby Pictorial Memories" (2006) ISBN 185937 491 3
★ Colin Waters - "Whitby Then and Now" (2004) ISBN 07524 33016
★ Colin Platt - "Whitby Abbey" (1985) ISBN 18507 44564
References
1. Bede, ''The Ecclesiastical History of the English People'', ed. J.McClure and R. Collins (Oxford University Press 1994), pp. 150-151.
2. ''The Blackwell Encyclopaedia of Anglo-Saxon England'' ed. Michael Lapidge ''et al'' (Blackwell 1999), pp.155, 472.
3. http://www.yorkshireports.co.uk/content/whitby/fishing.aspx
External links
;History
★
Whitby Archives Heritage Centre
★
Whitby History at GENUKI
★
The Yards of Whitby
;Tourism
★
Whitby & North York Moors tourist information
★
Yorkshire Coastliner Bus Service
★
North Yorkshire Moors Railway
;Other
★
The Whitby GazetteThe Whitby Gazette newspaper online
★
Mapping the Town: the history of Whitby, presented by
Julian Richards (
BBC Radio 4) (
RealAudio format)
★
Whitby Sea Fishing Whitby Sea Fishing guide by Whitby Sea Anglers Fishing Club
★
BBC Tees - the latest local news, sport, entertainment, features, faith, travel and weather.