'Svanetia' or 'Svaneti' () is a historic province in
Georgia, in the northwestern part of the country. It is inhabited by the
Svans, an ethnic subgroup of the
Georgians.
Geography
Surrounded by 3,000-5,000-meter peaks, Svanetia is the highest inhabited area in
Europe. Four of the 10 highest peaks of the
Caucasus are located in the region. The highest mountain in Georgia, Mount
Shkhara at 5,201 meters (17,059 feet), is located in the province. Other prominent peaks include Tetnuldi (4,974m./16,319ft.), Shota Rustaveli (4,960m./16,273ft.), Mt.
Ushba (4,710m./15,453ft.), and Ailama (4,525m./14,842ft.).

The historic region of Upper Svaneti in Georgia.
Situated on the southern slopes of the central
Greater Caucasus, Svanetia extends over the upper valleys of the
Rioni,
Enguri and
Tskhenistskali. Geographically and historically, the province has been divided into two parts – Upper Svanetia (''Zemo Svaneti''; the present day
Mestia Raioni) and Lower Svanetia (''Kvemo Svaneti''; the present day
Lentekhi Raioni) – centering on the valleys of the upper reaches of the two rivers Enguri and Cxenis-c’q’ali, respectively. They are distributed between the present-day regions of
Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti and
Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti respectively. Historical Svanetia also included the
Kodori Gorge in the adjoining rebel province of
Abkhazia, and part of the adjacent river valleys of
Kuban and
Baksan of
Russia.
Landscape

View of the Caucasus Mountains in Svanetia
The landscape of Svanetia is dominated by mountains that are separated by deep gorges. Most of the region which lies below 1,800 meters (5,904ft.) above sea level is covered by mixed and
coniferous forests. The forest zone is made up of tree species such as
spruce,
fir,
beech,
oak, and
hornbeam. Other species that are less common but may still be found in some areas include
chestnut,
birch,
maple,
pine and
box. The zone which extends from 1,800 meters to roughly about 3,000 meters (5,904-9,840ft.) above sea level consists of alpine meadows and grasslands. Eternal snows and glaciers take over in areas that are over 3,000 meters above sea level. The region is notable for its glaciers and picturesque summits. Svanetia's signature peak is probably Mt.
Ushba which towers over the
Inguri Gorge and can be seen from many parts of the region.
Climate
The climate of Svanetia is humid and is influenced by the air masses coming in from the
Black Sea throughout the year. Average temperatures and precipitation vary considerably with elevation. Annual precipitation ranges between 1000 and 3200mm (39 and 126 inches). The highest amount of precipitation falls on the
Greater Caucasus Mountains. The region is characterized by very heavy snowfall in the winter and
avalanches are a frequent occurrence. Snow cover may reach 5 meters (16.4 feet) in some areas. In general, the lowest regions of Svanetia (800-1200 meters/2624-3936 feet above sea level) are characterized by long, warm summers and relatively cold and snowy winters. Middle altitudes (1200-1800 meters above sea level) experience relatively warm summers and cold winters. Areas above 2000 meters above sea level lie within a zone that experiences short, cool summers (less than 3 months) and long and cold winters. Large parts of Svanetia lie above 3000 meters (9840 feet) above sea level, a zone which does not have a real summer. Due to Svanetia's close proximity to the Black Sea, the region is spared from the extremely cold winter temperatures that are characteristic of high mountains.
History

A typical Svanetian tower
The Svans are usually identified with the ''Soanes'' mentioned by
Greek geographer Strabo, who placed them more or less in the area still occupied by the modern-day Svans. The province had been a dependency of
Colchis, and of its successor kingdom of
Lazica (Egrisi) until
AD 552, when the Svans took advantage of the
Lazic War, repudiated this connexion and went over to the
Persians. The
Byzantines wanted the region, for if they secured its passes, they could prevent Persian raids on the border areas of Lazica. With the end of the war (562), Svanetia again became part of Lazica. Then, the province joined the
Kingdom of Abkhazia to form a unified monarchy which was incorporated into the Kingdom of
Georgia in the early 11th century. Svanetia became a duchy (''saeristavo'') within it, governed by an duke (''eristavi''). The province’s
Orthodox culture flourished particularly during the Georgian “golden age” under Queen
Tamar (r. 1184-1213), who was respected almost as goddess by the Svanetians. The legend has it that the duchy was annually visited by Tamar. The Svans had been known as fierce warriors for centuries. Their inflatable war banner was named ''Lemi'' (Lion) because of its shape.
The marauding
Mongols never reached Svanetia and, for a time, the region became a cultural safe house. Following the final disintegration of the Kingdom of Georgia in the
1460s, fighting broke out for controlling the province. Part of Upper Svanetia formed an independent principality, while Lower Svanetia was gradually subdued by the
Mingrelian princes. Facing serious internal conflict, Prince Tsioq’
Dadeshkeliani of Svanetia signed a treaty of protectorate with the
Russian Empire on
November 26, 1833. Difficult to access, the region retained significant autonomy until 1857, when Russia took advantage of the dynastic feud in Svanetia and effectively abolished the principality’s autonomy. In 1875, the Russians toughened their rule by imposing additional taxes. Protests ensued, and Russia deployed troops against the province. Despite having suffered heavy losses, the Russian army units eventually crushed the rebels burning their stronghold Khalde to the ground in 1876.
Part of the
Russian governorate of
Kutais, Svanetia was divided into two
raions (districts) –
Mestia (former Sethi) and
Lentekhi – under the
Soviet rule. The unsuccessful anti-Soviet
Svanetian Uprising took place in the region in 1921.

Vintage photo of Mestia, c. 1890s
In 1987,
avalanches destroyed several homes and killed seventy, mostly school children. Collapse of the
Soviet Union, and subsequent
Georgian Civil War created severe socioeconomic problems in the region. While the Svanetian population resisted the unpleasant conditions of the high mountain environment they lived in for centuries, the increasing economic difficulties of the last two decades and frequent natural disasters –
floods and
landslides as of April 2005 (
[1]) have brought about a strong tendency towards migration. The province became a safe haven for criminals threatening local residents and tourists. Large-scale anti-criminal operations carried out by the Georgian Special Forces as of March 2004 (
[2]) resulted in significant improvement of the situation.
Population
The Svans, the indigenous population of Svanetia, are ethnic subgroup of the
Georgians. Until the 1930s,
Mingrelians and Svans had their own census grouping, but were classified under the broader category of Georgian thereafter. They are
Georgian Orthodox Christians, and were Christianized in the 4th-6th centuries. However, some remnants of old paganism have been maintained.
Saint George (known as ''Jgëræg'' to the locals), a
patron saint of Georgia, is the most respected saint. The Svans have retained many of their old traditions, including blood revenge. Their families are small, and the husband is the head of his family. The Svan really respect the older women in families.

The historic region of Lower Svaneti in Georgia.
Typically bilingual, they use both
Georgian and their own, unwritten
Svan language, which together with the Georgian,
Mingrelian, and
Laz languages constitute the
South Caucasian or Kartvelian language family. The Svan language is being largely replaced by the Georgian proper.
Culture and tourism
Svanetia is known for their architectural treasures and picturesque landscapes. The Botany of Svanetia is legendary among travelers. The famous Svanetian towers erected mainly in the 9th-12th centuries, make the region’s villages more attractive. In the province are dozens of Georgian Orthodox churches and various fortified buildings. Architectural monuments of Upper Svanetia are included in a list of
UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Svan culture survives most wonderfully in its songs and dances. Svanetia boasts the most complex form of Georgian polyphonic singing, traditional to
Georgian vocal music.
See also
★
Samegrelo-Zemo Svaneti
★
Racha-Lechkhumi and Kvemo Svaneti
★
Kodori Valley
★
Dadeshkeliani
External links
★
PHOTO ESSAY OF SVANETIA
★
Frescos and icons from Svanetia
★
"Svan language'. ''
Encyclopædia Britannica''.
★
Svan language.
TITUS.