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'Sunderland' (pronounced: , or ) is a city in Tyne and Wear, England. It was formerly a county borough but now forms part of the City of Sunderland. It sits at the mouth of the Wearside conurbation.
The name "Sunderland" is reputed to come from Soender-land (soender/sunder being the Anglo-Saxon infinitive, meaning "to part"), likely to be reference to the valley carved by the River Wear that runs through the heart of the city. Another meaning is that of the name referring to 'land set aside', derived from the rich Christian heritage of the city.
There were three original settlements on the site of modern-day Sunderland. On the north side of the river, Monkwearmouth was settled in 674 when Benedict Biscop founded the Wearmouth-Jarrow monastery. Opposite the monastery on the south bank, Bishopwearmouth was founded in 930. A small fishing village called Sunderland, located toward the mouth of the river (modern day East End) was granted a charter in 1179.
Over the centuries, Sunderland grew as a port, trading coal and salt. Ships began to be built on the river in the 14th century. By the 19th century, the port of Sunderland had grown to absorb Bishopwearmouth and Monkwearmouth. Sunderland became a city in 1992.
A person born in Sunderland is sometimes called a ''Mackem''.

Contents

History

Early history

17th and 18th centuries

19th century

Victoria Hall Disaster

20th century to present

Civic history

Motto

Geography and administration

Alphabetical street naming of suburbs

Climate

Demographics

Ethnicity

Religion

Culture and attractions

Literature and art

Music

Theatre

Media, film and television

Events

Attractions

Sport

Education

Economy and industry

Traditional industry

Rejuvenation

Transport

Rail

Metro

Road

Bus

Cycle

Famous residents

See also

References

External links

History

Early history

Settlements on the mouth of the Wear date back to 674, when Benedict Biscop, granted land by King Ecgfrith of Northumbria, founded the Wearmouth-Jarrow (''St. Peter's'') monastery on the north bank of the river Wear - an area that became known as Monkwearmouth. Biscop's monastery was the first built of stone in Northumbria. He employed glaziers from France re-establishing glass making in Britain.

In 686 the community was taken over by Ceolfrid, and Wearmouth-Jarrow became a major centre of learning and knowledge in Anglo-Saxon England with a library of around 300 volumes.

The Codex Amiatinus, described by some as the 'finest book in the world',^[1] was created at the monastery and was likely worked on by Bede who was born at Wearmouth in 673.
While at the monastery, Bede completed the ''Historia ecclesiastica gentis Anglorum'' ''(The Ecclesiastical History of the English People)'' in 731, a feat which earned him the title: ''The father of English history''.
In the late eighth century the Vikings began to raid the coast, and by the middle of the ninth century the monastery had been abandoned.
Lands on the south side of the river were granted to the Bishop of Durham by Athelstan of England in 930. These became known as Bishopwearmouth.^[2] This parish included settlements such as Ryhope, which fall within the modern day boundary of Sunderland.
As early as 1100, the Bishopwearmouth parish included a small fishing village at the mouth of the river (modern day Hendon) known as 'Soender-land' (which evolved into 'Sunderland').^[3] This settlement was granted a charter in 1179 by Hugh Pudsey, then the Bishop of Durham.
From as early as 1346 ships were being built at Wearmouth, by a merchant named Thomas Menville - although Sunderland remained a small and unimportant town.
In 1589, salt began to be made in Sunderland. Large vats of seawater, were heated using coal. As the water evaporated the salt sediment remained. This process is known as salt panning. The modern-day name of the area the pans occupied is Pann's Bank, located on the river bank between the city centre and Hendon. As coal was required to heat the salt pans, a coal mining community began to emerge in the area. Only poor quality coal was used in salt panning; quality coal was traded via the port, which subsequently began to grow. This put Sunderland in competition for the first time with its coal-trading neighbour Newcastle.

17th and 18th centuries

Prior to the English Civil War in 1642, King Charles I bestowed the rights to the East of England coal trade upon Newcastle. This had a big impact on Sunderland which had begun to rapidly grow as a coal-trading town. This created resentment toward Newcastle and toward the monarchy. When the civil war began, the mainly Protestant Sunderland sided with Parliament against the primarily Catholic Newcastle. This worked to Sunderland's advantage because Parliament blockaded the Tyne, crippling the Newcastle coal trade and allowing the Sunderland coal trade to flourish. Because of the difficulty for colliers in trying to navigate the shallow waters of the River Wear, the coal had to be loaded onto keels (large boats) and taken downriver to the waiting colliers. The keels were manned by a close-knit group of workers known as 'keelmen'. There were also keelmen operating on the Tyne.
In 1719 the separate parish of Sunderland was carved from the densely populated east end of Bishopwearmouth by the establishment of Holy Trinity, Sunderland parish church. The three original settlments of Wearmouth (Bishopwearmouth, Monkwearmouth and Sunderland) had begun to combine, driven by the success of the port of Sunderland as well as the salt panning and the shipbuilding along the banks of the Wear. Around this time, Sunderland was also known as 'Sunderland-near-the-Sea'.^[4]

19th century

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Local government was divided between the three churches (Holy Trinity, Sunderland, St. Michael's, Bishopwearmouth, and St. Peter's, Monkwearmouth) and when cholera broke out in 1831 the "select vestrymen", as the church councilmen were called, showed themselves completely unable to understand and cope with the epidemic.
Sunderland, a main trading port at the time, was the first British town to be struck with the 'Indian cholera' epidemic.^[5] The first victim, William Sproat, died on October 23 1831. Sunderland was put under quarantine, and the port was blockaded, but in December of that year the disease spread to Gateshead and from there, it rapidly spread across the country killing an estimated 32,000 people. The novel ''The Dress Lodger'', about local hero Jack Crawford, by American author Sheri Holman is set in Sunderland during the epidemic.
Demands for democracy and organised town government saw the Borough of Sunderland created in 1836, although impatient citizens elected Andrew White to be Mayor in December 1835.
Sunderland developed on plateaus high above the river, and so never suffered from the problem of allowing people to cross the river without interrupting the passage of high masted vessels. The Wearmouth Bridge was built in 1796, at the instigation of Rowland Burdon, the MP, and is described by Nikolaus Pevsner, the recognised authority, as being of superb elegance. It was the second iron bridge built after the famous span at Ironbridge itself, but over twice as long and only three-quarters the weight. Indeed, at the time of building, it was the biggest single span bridge in the world.^[6] Further up the river, another bridge, the Queen Alexandra Bridge, was built in 1910, linking the areas of Pallion and Southwick.^[7]
In 1897 Monkwearmouth officially became a part of Sunderland. Bishopwearmouth had long since been absorbed.^[8]

Victoria Hall Disaster

Main articles: Victoria Hall Disaster

The Victoria Hall was a large concert hall on Toward Road facing onto Mowbray Park. The Hall was the scene of a tragedy on June 16 1883 when 183 children died.^[9] During a variety show, children rushed towards a staircase for treats.^[10] At the bottom of the staircase, the door had been opened inward and bolted in such a way as to only leave a gap wide enough for one child to pass at a time.^[11] The children surged down the stairs toward the door. Those at the front became trapped, and were crushed by the weight of the crowd behind them.
With the asphyxiation of 183 children between 3 and 13 years old the disaster is the worst of its kind in British history.^[12] The memorial, of a grieving mother holding a dead child, is currently located in Mowbray Park with a protective canopy.^[13] Newspaper reports at the time triggered a mood of national outrage and the resulting inquiry recommended that public venues be fitted with a minimum number of outward opening emergency exits, which led to the invention of 'push bar' emergency doors. This law still remains in full force to this day. The Victoria Hall remained in use until 1941 when it was destroyed by a German bomb.^[14]

20th century to present

As the traditional industries have declined, electronics, chemicals, and paper manufacture have replaced them. Some of these new industries, as well as the Nissan car plant, and the nearby North East Aircraft Museum are in Washington, which has more space to allow purpose built factories.

Commencing in 1990 the banks of the Wear experienced a massive physical regeneration with the creation of housing, retail parks and business centres on former shipbuilding sites. Alongside the creation of the National Glass Centre the University of Sunderland has also created a new campus on the St. Peter's site. The clearance of the Vaux Brewery site on the North East fringe of the City Centre has created a further opportunity for new development in the city centre.
Like many cities, Sunderland comprises a number of areas with their own distinct histories, e.g: Fulwell, Monkwearmouth, Roker, and Southwick on the northern side of the Wear, and Bishopwearmouth and Hendon to the south.
The town was the one of the most heavily bombed areas in England during World War II^[15]
. As a result, much of the town centre was rebuilt in an undistinguished concrete utility style. However, many fine old buildings remain. Religious buildings include Holy Trinity built in 1719 for an independent Sunderland, St. Michaels's Church, built as Bishopwearmouth Parish Church and now known as Sunderland Minster and St. Peter's Church, Monkwearmouth, part of which dates from AD 674, and was the original monastery.
St. Andrew's Roker, so-called "Cathedral of the Arts and Crafts Movement", contains work by William Morris, Ernest Gimson and Eric Gill.
On March 24, 2004, the City adopted St Benedict Biscop as its patron saint. A patron had never been adopted before.

Civic history

Sunderland was created a municipal borough of County Durham in 1835. Under the Local Government Act 1888, it was given further status as a county borough with independence from county council control. In 1974, under the Local Government Act 1972, the county borough was abolished and its area combined with that of other districts to form the Metropolitan Borough of Sunderland in Tyne and Wear. The borough was granted City status after winning a competition in 1992 to celebrate the Queen's 40th year on the throne.

Motto

Sunderland has the motto of 'Nil Desperandum Auspice Deo' loosely translated it means 'Never Despair, Trust In God'

Geography and administration

Much of the city is located on a low range of hills running parallel to the coast. On average, it is around 80 metres above sea level. Sunderland is divided by the River Wear which passes through the middle of the city in a deeply incised valley, part of which is known as the Hylton gorge. The only two road bridges connecting the north and south halves of the City are the Queen Alexandra Bridge at Pallion and the Wearmouth Bridge just to the north of the City centre. A third bridge carries the A19 trunk road over the Wear to the West of the City (see map below).
Most of the suburbs of Sunderland are situated towards the west of the city centre with 70% of its population living on the south side of the river and 30% on the north side. The city extends to the seafront at Hendon and Ryhope (on the south) and Seaburn (on the north).
The area is part of the Anglican Diocese of Durham. It has been in the Roman Catholic Diocese of Hexham and Newcastle since the Catholic hierarchy was restored in 1850.

Alphabetical street naming of suburbs

Some Sunderland suburbs have most streets beginning with the same letter:

★ 'A': Farringdon

★ 'B': Town End Farm

★ 'C': Hylton Castle

★ 'D': Seaburn (some parts)

★ 'E': Carley Hill

★ 'F': Ford Estate

★ 'G': Grindon

★ 'H': Hylton Lane

★ 'K': Downhill

★ 'P': Pennywell and Plains Farm

★ 'R': Red House

★ 'S': Springwell

★ 'T': Thorney Close

★ 'W': Witherwack

Climate

As with most UK East-coast towns, Sunderland is prone to sea fog known locally as ''Fret''. This is most common in the summer months (April - September). These frets can be very dense, are often very localised, and can appear and disappear in a matter of minutes.

Demographics

'Population of Sunderland urban area by ward - (2001 Census)'[16]
'Ward'	'Population'
Ryhope	13,852
Central	12,398
Silksworth	12,295
Pallion	10,693
Hendon	10,377
South Hylton	10,317
St. Michael's	10,267
Thornholme	10,214
St. Chad's	10,006
Thorney Close	9,938
Grindon	9,548
'South total:'	'119,905'
Castletown	10,322
St. Peter's	10,264
Fulwell	10,171
Town End Farm	9,381
Colliery	9,006
Southwick	8,690
'North total:'	'57,834'
'City total:'	'177,739'

Sunderland is the 26th largest city in England. At 3,874 hectares, Sunderland is the 45th largest urban area in England by measure of area, with a population density of 45.88 people per hectare.
According to statistics^[17] based on the 2001 census, 60% of homes in the Sunderland metropolitan area are owner occupied, with an average household size of 2.4 people. 3% of the homes have no permanent residents.
66% (men) and 54.7% (women) of the population within working age are economically active. 6.7% of men and 3% of women are unemployed. 12.2% of men and 8.6% women are permanently sick or disabled.
Immigration into Sunderland is 2.4%, emigration is 2.2%.

Ethnicity

98.1% of the population are white, with 1% Asian and 0.4% mixed-race.
In 2001, the most ethnically diverse ward of the city was the (now defunct) Thornholme area - just to the south of the city centre, an area that included the suburbs of Ashbrooke and Eden Vale. Here, 89.4% are white, 7.8% are Asian and 1.3% are mixed-race.
The least ethnically diverse wards are in the north of the city. The area of Castletown is made up of 99.3% white, 0.4% Asian and 0.2% mixed-race.

Religion

According to census statistics, 81.5% of Sunderland residents class themselves as Christian, 9.6% are irreligious, 0.7% are Muslim and 7.6% did not wish to give their religion.
114 people of Jewish faith were recorded as living in Sunderland, a vanishingly small percentage. There was no Jewish community before 1750, though subsequently a number of Jewish merchants from across the UK and Europe settled in Sunderland, A Rabbi from Holland was established in the city in 1790. The once thriving Jewish community has been in slow decline since the mid 20th century. Many Sunderland Jews left for stronger Jewish communities in Britain or to Israel.^[18] The Jewish primary school, the Menorah School, closed in July 1983. The synagogue on Ryhope Road (opened in 1928) closed at the end of March 2006.
(See also Jews and Judaism in North East England)

Culture and attractions

Literature and art

Lewis Carroll was a frequent visitor to the area. He wrote most of "Jabberwocky" at Whitburn as well as "The Walrus and the Carpenter".^[19] Some parts of the area are also widely believed to be the inspiration for his Alice in Wonderland stories, such as Hylton Castle and Backhouse Park.^[20] There is a statue to Carroll in Whitburn library. Lewis Carroll was also a visitor to the Rectory of Holy Trinity Church, Southwick; then a township independent of Sunderland. Carroll's connection with Sunderland, and the area's history, is documented in Bryan Talbot's 2007 graphic novel ''Alice in Sunderland''.^[21]
More recently, Sunderland-born Terry Deary, writer of the series of Horrible Histories books, has achieved fame and success, and many others such as thriller writer Sheila Quigley, are following his lead.
The Manchester painter, L S Lowry, was a frequent visitor, staying in the Seaburn Hotel in Sunderland.^[22] Many of his paintings of seacapes and shipbuilding are based on Wearside scenes.
The Northern Gallery for Contemporary Art on Fawcett Street and Sunderland Museum and Winter Gardens showcase exhibitions and installations from up-and-coming and established artists alike, with the latter holding an extensive collection of LS Lowry. The National Glass Centre on Liberty Way also exhibits a number of glass sculptures.

Music

Sunderland has produced a modest number of musicians that have gone on to reach international fame, most notably Dave Stewart of the Eurythmics. Kenickie, which featured Lauren Laverne on vocals, also achieved a top ten album and wide critical acclaim in the mid-to-late-1990s.
In recent years, a thriving underground music scene in Sunderland has helped the likes of The Futureheads and Field Music gain national recognition.
Other famous Mackem musicians include punk rockers The Toy Dolls, who broke the top five of the charts with "Nellie the Elephant" in December 1984; the lead singer of dance outfit Olive, Ruth Ann Boyle, who achieved a UK chart-topper with "You're Not Alone" in May 1997, and has gone on to work with fellow chart-toppers Enigma; A Tribe of Toffs made number 21 with their cult hit "John Kettley is a weatherman" in December 1988; Alex Kapranos of the band Franz Ferdinand also grew up in Sunderland and South Shields.
On May 7 and 8th 2005, Sunderland played host to BBC Radio 1's Big Weekend concert - the UK's largest free music festival. The event was held at Herrington Country Park, in the shadow of Penshaw Monument and was attended by 30,000 visitors.^[23][24]
Sunderland lacks a large dedicated music venue such as the MetroRadio Arena or the Carling Academy in Newcastle. The Empire Theatre sometimes plays host to music acts, and has attracted Deacon Blue and Journey South to the city in recent years. McFly played there in April 2007. In the past it has also welcomed major bands such as The Beatles and The Kinks.

''Independent'', a city centre nightclub/music venue, satisfies underground music lovers, having previously played host to Keane, Franz Ferdinand, Kasabian, Kaiser Chiefs, Maxïmo Park and Snow Patrol when they were largely unknown and had not yet achieved commercial success. More recently, Doves and Tim Burgess have performed DJ sets on club nights, and in summer 2007 the club will host gigs from established bands such as The Zutons and The Maccabees. The Manor Quay, the students' union on the campus of the University of Sunderland has also hosted the Arctic Monkeys, Maxïmo Park, 911, the Levellers and Girls Aloud in the past three years.
Clint Boon sometimes deejays in indie venue ''Ku Club'', and the Bluetones did a set there in 2006.
The Sunderland Symphony Orchestra was founded in 2000 to mark the millennium.

Theatre

The Sunderland Empire Theatre, opened in 1907, is the largest theatre in the North East, reopened in December 2004 following a major redevelopment allowing it to stage West End shows such as ''Miss Saigon'', ''Starlight Express'' and ''My Fair Lady'', all of which have been performed at the Empire. The Empire is the only theatre between Leeds and Glasgow large enough to accommodate such shows.^[25]
The Empire has also recently played host to a diverse range of comedy performers such as Ricky Gervais, Roy Chubby Brown, Little Britain, Mark Lamarr and The League of Gentlemen.
The Birmingham Royal Ballet have a season at the Sunderland Empire every year, and it is considered the company's north-east home.
The Royalty Theatre is the home to the (amateur) Royalty Theatre group who also put on a number of low-budget productions throughout the year. Renowned film producer David Parfitt belonged to this company before achieving worldwide fame.

Media, film and television

Sunderland has two local newspapers: the daily evening tabloid ''The Sunderland Echo'', founded in 1873, and the ''Sunderland Star'' - a free newspaper.^[26] It also has its own local radio station Sun FM and a hospital radio station - Radio Sunderland for Hospitals, and can receive other north-eastern independent radio stations Metro FM, Magic 1152, Galaxy North East and Century FM. The University of Sunderland student radio station Utopia FM has recently won awards for innovation and broadcasts for part of the year. The city is covered by BBC North East and Cumbria and ITV's Tyne Tees franchise, which has a regional office in the University's Media Centre.^[27]
Production will start in Sunderland in early 2007 on the Simon Fellows film ''Malice in Sunderland'', a modern twist on the story of Alice in Wonderland, starring Mischa Barton.^[28]
The Stadium of Light, home of Sunderland AFC was used as a filming location in the 2000 movie ''Purely Belter'', following the season-ticket chasing dreams of two Newcastle United F.C. fans.

Events

Each year on the last weekend in July, the city hosts the Sunderland International Airshow. It takes place primarily along the sea front at Roker and Seaburn, and is attended by over 1.2 million people annually. It is the largest free airshow in Europe.
Sunderland also hosts the free International Festival of Kites, Music and Dance, which attracts kite-makers from around the world to Northumbria Playing Fields, Washington.
Every year the city hosts a large Remembrance Day memorial, believed to be the largest in the UK outside of London.^[29]
HMS Ocean, an active Helicopter Landing Platform of the Royal Navy, is Sunderland's adopted ship. The crew of Ocean regularly visit the city.
At Christmas, Sunderland hosts a large German market in the city centre selling quality German-made wooden goods, and German food. It also hosts a large ice rink in Mowbray Park, which forms part of the wider, regional North East Winter Festival.

Attractions

Main articles: List of places in Sunderland#Places of interest, Places of interest in Sunderland

Traditional attractions for visitors to Sunderland include Penshaw Monument, the Souter Lighthouse (the first electrically powered lighthouse in the world^[30]), the 15th century Hylton Castle, the Wildfowl park in Washington, and the beaches of Roker and Seaburn.
The National Glass Centre opened in 1998, reflecting Sunderland's distinguished history of glass-making. Despite substained support from the Arts Council the centre has struggled to meet visitor targets since it opened.^[31]

Sunderland Museum and Winter Gardens, on Borough Road, was the first municipally funded museum in the country outside London. It houses a comprehensive collection of the locally produced Sunderland Lustreware pottery. The new City Library Arts Centre, on Fawcett Street, also houses the Northern Gallery for Contemporary Art.
The City of Sunderland has been commended several times on its commitment to preserving its natural faculties. As such, Sunderland has been awarded prestigious titles by the Britain in Bloom collective in 1993, 1997 and 2000.

Sport

The only professional sporting team in Sunderland is the football team, Sunderland A.F.C., formed in 1879. Currently winners of the Football League Championship, and newly-promoted to the Premier League, they play their home games at the 49,000 seat capacity Stadium of Light and share a bitter and historic rivalry with fellow Tyne and Wear side Newcastle United F.C.. Sunderland also has the north-east's top women's football team, Sunderland A.F.C. Women, who have been financially separated from the men's team since summer 2005. They currently play in the top tier of English women's football - FA Women's Premier League National Division, despite their financial struggles. The City also has two non-league sides, Sunderland Nissan F.C. of the Northern League Division One and Sunderland Ryhope Community Association F.C. of the Northern League Division Two
Sunderland's amateur Rugby and Cricket clubs are both based in Ashbrooke.
Sunderland had an Ice Hockey team from 1977 until the late 1990s when the ice rink at the Crowtree leisure centre was closed.

From 1976 until 1995, Sunderland had a Basketball team, winners of the national championship in 1981. Named 'Sunblest Sunderland' the team played at the Crowtree Leisure Centre. In 1995 the team moved to Newcastle (under the name 'Newcastle Comets'), where it was then bought by John Hall and renamed the Newcastle Eagles.
The Crowtree Leisure Centre has also played host to a number of important boxing matches and snooker championships including the 2003 Snooker World Trickshot and Premier League Final. In September 2005, BBC TV cameras caught international boxing bouts featuring local boxers David Dolan, Tony Jeffries and Stuart Kennedy.
Athletics is also a popular sport in the city, with Sunderland Harriers Athletics Club based at Silksworth Sports Complex. 800 m runner Gavin Massingham represented the club at the AAA Championships in 2005. In 2006, the first Great Women's Run took place along Sunderland's coastline. Among the field which lined up to start the race were Olympic silver medallists Sonia O'Sullivan of Republic of Ireland and eventual winner Gete Wami of Ethiopia. The race returns to the city on 17 June 2007.

Education

The University of Sunderland was opened in 1992, and currently has over 16,000 students. The university is split into two campuses. the main 'Wearmouth Hall' building (site of the original Polytechnic) is just to the west of the city centre as is the main university library. The ''The Sir Tom Cowie Campus at St. Peter's'' is located on the north banks of the river Wear, next to the National Glass Centre.
The City of Sunderland College is a further education establishment with five campuses located at the Bede centre on Durham Road, Shiney Row, Hylton, Doxford International Business Park and 'Phoenix House' in the city centre. It has over 14,000 students, and based on exam results is one of the most successful colleges.^[32]
''See: List of schools in Sunderland.''
There are twenty secondary schools in the Sunderland area, predominantly comprehensives. According to exam results, the most successful was the Sunderland High School, an independent selective school in Ashbrooke.^[33] However, comprehensive schools also thrive, particularly the Roman Catholic single-sex schools St. Anthony's (for girls) and St. Aidan's (for boys). Both continue to attain high exam results. There are seventy-six primary schools in Sunderland. According to the 'Value Added' measure, the most successful is Mill Hill Primary School, in Doxford Park.^[34]

Economy and industry

: ''See: List of companies in Sunderland''

'Employment in Sunderland by sector - 2004'[35]
'Sector'	'% Employed'
Public Administration, Education and Health	29.7
Distribution, Hotels and Restaurants	22.7
Manufacturing	16.8
Finance, IT and other business activities	16.3
Construction	4.4
Other services	4.3
Transport and Communications	4.2
Agriculture, Energy & Water	1.6

Sunderland is one of the most deprived cities in the North of England, with 11 of the 24 wards featuring in the list of the 2000 most deprived wards in England.^[36] The most deprived areas are Southwick to the north of the river and Thorney Close to the south - both with chronic levels of unemployment, although the city is performing better than the North East as a whole.³⁶

Traditional industry

Once famously hailed as the "Greatest Shipbuilding Town in the World"^[37]
, ships were built on the Wear from at least 1346 onwards and by the mid-eighteenth century Sunderland was one of the chief shipbuilding towns in the country. The Port of Sunderland was significantly expanded in the 1850s with the construction of Hudson Dock to designs by River Wear Commissioner's Engineer John Murray, with consultancy by Robert Stephenson.^[38] One famous vessel was the ‘wonderful’ ''Torrens'', the clipper in which Joseph Conrad sailed, and on which he began his first novel. As Basil Lubbock states, ''Torrens'' was one of the most successful ships ever built, besides being one of the fastest, and for many years was the favourite passenger ship to Adelaide. She was one of the most famous ships of her time and can claim to be the finest ship ever launched from a Sunderland yard. She was built in ten months by James Laing at their Deptford yard on the Wear in 1875.
Between 1939 and 1945 the Wear yards launched 245 merchant ships totalling 1.5 million tons, a quarter of the merchant tonnage produced in the UK at this period.
Competition from overseas caused a downturn in demand for Sunderland built ships toward the end of the twentieth century. The last shipyard in Sunderland closed in 1988.
Sunderland, part of the Durham coalfield, has a coal-mining heritage that dates back centuries. At the peak in 1923, 170,000 miners were employed in County Durham alone,^[39] as labourers from all over Britain, including many from Scotland and Ireland, entered the region. As demand for coal slipped following World War II, mines began to close across the region, causing mass unemployment. The last coal mine closed in 1994. The site of the last coal mine, Wearmouth Colliery, is now occupied by the Stadium of Light, and a miner's Davey lamp monument stands outside of the ground to honour the heritage of the site.

Glass has been made in Sunderland for around 1,500 years. As with the coal-mining and shipbuilding, overseas competition has forced the closure of all of Sunderland's glass-making factories. Corning Glass Works, in Sunderland for 120 years, will close on March 31, 2007^[40] and in January 2007, Pyrex announced it would close by the end of the year,^[41] bringing to an end glass-making in the city.
Vaux Breweries was established in the town centre in the 1880s and for 110 years was a major employer. Following a series of consolidations in the British Brewing Industry, however, the brewery was finally closed in July 1999. Vaux in Sunderland and Wards in Sheffield had been part of the Vaux Group, but with the closure of both breweries it was re-branded The Swallow Group, concentrating on the hotel side of the business. This was subject to a successful take-over by Whitbread PLC in the autumn of 2000.

Rejuvenation

‎
Sunderland's economic situation began to improve following the low point of the 1980s. In addition to the giant Nissan factory, new service industries have moved in, creating thousands of jobs. Doxford International Business Park, in the south west of the city, has attracted a host of national and international companies. Sunderland was named in the shortlist of the top seven "intelligent cities" in the world for the use of Information Technology, in both 2004 and 2005. The city was also included in the top eighteen list in 2002 and 2003.^[42]
The former shipyard areas along the River Wear have also been transformed, with several high-profile developments close to the river: St. Peter's Campus of the University of Sunderland; North Haven, an executive housing and marina development on the former North Dock at Roker; the National Glass Centre, by St. Peter's Church; the Stadium of Light the 49,000-capacity home of Sunderland A.F.C.; Hylton Riverside Retail Park, a large shopping outlet centre at Castletown. Also in 2007 the Echo 24 luxuary apartments will open in the city centre.
Sunderland Corporation's massive post-war housing estate developments, such as Farringdon, Pennywell, Grindon, Hylton Red House, Hylton Castle, Thorney Close and Town End Farm, together with earlier developments, have all passed into the ownership of Sunderland Housing Group, a private company and a Registered Social Landlord. Since the housing stock transfer in 2000 there have been considerable improvements to the quality of social housing in the city, amid frequent criticism of "cowboy" service personnel and skyrocketing rent. The tower blocks at Monkwearmouth, Gilley Law, Hendon and the East End have been transformed and the vast estates are also improving although the plans have not met with universal praise.
The central business district of Sunderland has also been subject to a recent flurry of redevelopment and improvement. In 2000, The Bridges shopping centre was extended towards Crowtree Road and the former Central Bus Station, attracting national chain stores. In November 2004, after several years with no cinema, a Cineworld multiplex opened in the new River Quarter, an entertainment complex towards the east of the City Centre. The Cinema was taken over by the Empire Multiplex Cinema Company in mid 2006. The previous ABC Cinema, situated on the corner of Park Lane and Holmeside, had been derelict for a number of years until it reopened late in 2005 as The Point, an upmarket venue comprising three bars and the Union nightclub.
The arrival of Roy Keane as Sunderland AFC's new manager in August 2006 has had a massive impact in Sunderland's hitherto limited tourism industry. Keane has proved a big pull for the city in terms of attracting tourists to Sunderland, with the Tourism Office reporting a dramatic rise in the number of football fans coming to the city "mentioning his name"^[43] as early as October 2006, just six weeks after Keane's appointment as manager. Airline Ryanair, moreover, recorded a 10% increase in passenger numbers travelling to Newcastle Airport on Fridays preceding a Sunderland home game, some 600 more than on other Fridays. The Tourism Office believes Keane's attachment to the city is furthermore causing a knock-on effect on local restaurants, bars and attractions in that more tourists are "making a weekend of it"⁴³ after watching the football.

Transport

Rail

Sunderland station was opened in November 1965 to facilitate football teams and officials from countries who were drawn to play at Roker Park during England's hosting of the 1966 World Cup. It is served by Northern Rail services between Newcastle and Middlesbrough.
Until c. 2004, Transpennine Express ran trains from Sunderland to Liverpool Lime Street via Newcastle upon Tyne. Due to poor demand, these services were withdrawn, with the train company choosing to run services through Durham to Newcastle.
Grand Central Railway has announced plans to operate a direct service between Sunderland and King's Cross railway station in London. The service will begin in May 2007, which was held back from December, the service is due to begin with three departures daily each way, which will connect a line which can run from Edinburgh to London. It has also been announced that renovation to Sunderland's main train station will be started soon.^[44]

Metro

Since 2002, the Tyne and Wear Metro system was extended to Sunderland. The local Metro terminates at South Hylton after calling at Sunderland Rail Station and Park Lane Bus Station. Metro trains are quite frequent and travel North to Newcastle International Airport via Newcastle-upon-Tyne on the return journey from South Hylton. However, the Metro extension has not been viewed as a huge success with frequency of services cut due to a lack of demand.^[45]

Road

There are no motorways that run through the Sunderland urban area. The largest and busiest road is the A19, which runs north-to-south along the western edge of the urban area, crossing the river Wear at Hylton.
There are four main roads which support the city centre. The A690 ''Durham Road'' terminates in the city centre, and runs all the way to Crook, County Durham via the city of Durham. This is the main road supporting the south-west of the city.
The A1231 starts in the city centre, crosses the Queen Alexandra Bridge and runs through Washington to the A1. Most of this road is national speed limit dual carriageway.
The A1018 and A183 roads both start in the centre of South Shields and enter Sunderland from the north, before merging to cross the Wearmouth Bridge. The A1018 follows a direct route from Shields to Sunderland, the A183 follows the coast. After crossing the bridge, the A1018 follows a relatively straight path to the south of Sunderland where it merges with the A19. The A183 becomes ''Chester Road'' and heads west out of the city to the A1 at Chester-le-Street.
In Autumn 2007 the ''Southern Radial Route'' will open. This is a bypass of the A1018 through Grangetown and Ryhope - a stretch that commonly suffers from congestion, especially during rush hour. The bypass will start just south of Ryhope, and run parallel to the cliff tops into Hendon, largely avoiding residential areas.

Bus

A multi-million pound transport interchange at Park Lane was opened on 2 May, 1999 by the then ''Brookside'' actor Michael Starke. With 750,000 passengers per year it is the busiest bus and coach station in Britain after Victoria Coach Station in Central London, Did you know? Sunderland facts and has won several awards for innovative design. A new Metro station was built underneath the bus concourse to provide a direct interchange as part of the extension to South Hylton in 2002.

Cycle

There are a number of cycle routes that run through and around Sunderland. The National Cycle Network National Route 1 runs from Ryhope in the south, through the centre of the city, and then along the coast towards South Shields.
Britain's most popular long-distance cycle route - The 'C2C' Sea to Sea Cycle Route - traditionally starts (or ends) when the cyclist dips their wheel in the sea on Roker beach. The 'W2W' 'Wear-to-Walney' route, and the 'Two-Rivers' (Tyne and Wear) route also terminate in Sunderland.

Famous residents

Developer of the electric lightbulb Joseph Swan, agony aunt Denise Robertson, rockers 'The Futureheads' and Alex Kapranos of 'Franz Ferdinand', Civil liberty campaigner Chris Mullin MP, radio DJ and singer Lauren Laverne,^[46], actor James Bolam, film producer David Parfitt, lead singer of 'Olive' Ruth-Ann Boyle, author Lewis Carroll, artist LS Lowry, journalist Kate Adie, and The Venerable Bede are a few of the many famous people born in or associated with Sunderland. For a more detail list, see List of famous residents of Sunderland.

See also

★ Sunderland coat of arms

★ Facts and Figures dates in Sunderland's history

★

References

1. Libraries
2. Origins of Bishopwearmouth
3. What's in a name?
4. Sunderland Minster Eric Shegog
5. ''Diary of an Epidemic (Cholera)'', BBC Radio 4, [1]
6. Sunderland Wearmouth Bridge
7. SINE Project: Structure details for Queen Alexandra Bridge
8. Sunderland: The Sundered Land
9. Sunderland's Victoria Hall Stampede
10. Victims of the Victoria Hall Calamity
11. The Victoria Hall Disaster 1883
12. The Victoria Hall Disaster of 1883
13. Toy Tragedy Children Honoured
14. Alice in Sunderland: An Entertainment, , Bryan, Talbot, Jonathon Cape, 2007,
15. Rare images recall wartime blitz
16. 2001 Census - Fact Cards for wards in the City of Sunderland
17. Sunderland 2001 Census Statistics
18. http://www.999sunderland.com/
19. The Walrus and the Carpenter
20. ''Alice in Sunderland'', Bryan Talbot, 2007, ISBN 978-1593076733
21. News focus: Alice in Pictureland Ross Robertson
22. Masters of Art
23. Radio 1's Big Weekend: Penshaw Monument, Herrington Park, Sunderland
24. Local boys shine at Sunderland's Big Weekend
25. The Sunderland Empire Theatre
26. Newspaper Report for the publication: Sunderland Star
27. Julia Barthram
28. Malice in Sunderland
29. North honours fallen war heroes
30. Souter Lighthouse
31. Another new head for Glass Centre
32. City of Sunderland College
33. Secondary Schools in Sunderland League Table
34. Primary Schools in Sunderland League Table
35. Sunderland's workforce statistics
36. Sunderland's Economy
37. History of Shipbuilding in the North East
38. SINE Project: Structure details for South Dock: Hudson Dock
39. Rise and Fall of Coal Mining
40. End of an era as glass firm sets closure date
41. Energy costs close glass factory
42. TOP OF THE WORLD
43. Keane triggers city tourist boom
44. New rail service launch delayed
45. Sunderland Metro Service
46. Blonde ambition

External links

★ Tyne & Wear Archives Service