'Spitalfields' is an area in
Tower Hamlets, in the
East End of London, near to
Liverpool Street station and
Brick Lane. Its name is a contraction of 'hospital fields', in reference to "The Priory of Canons, and Hospital for poor bretheren, of the Order of St Austin", founded in 1197 (later refounded as The New Hospital of our Lady without Bishopgate).
The area is home to the historic
Old Spitalfields market. The
market, which receives 20,000 visitors every Sunday, was founded here in the
17th century.
History
Spitalfields was the location of one of Roman London's large extra-mural cemeteries, situated to the east of the
Bishopsgate thoroughfare, which roughly follows the line of
Ermine Street: the main highway to the north from
Londinium.
The presence of a Roman cemetery here was noticed by the antiquarian
John Stow as far back as 1576 and became the focus of a major archaeological excavation in the 1990s, following the redevelopment of Spitalfields Market. Perhaps the most spectacular find was the discovery in 1999 of a sarcophagus containing the remains of a high status, silk clad, Roman lady, complete with jet accessories and a unique glass phial (Thomas 2004: 7-29)
[1].
In the 12th century the former Roman cemetery became the site of the Priory and Hospital of St Mary Spital. This was one of the biggest medieval hospitals in England and was the focus of a large medieval cemetery which included a stone charnel house and mortuary chapel. This latter has recently been uncovered by archaeologists and preserved for public viewing. The Priory and Hospital were dissolved in 1539 under
Henry VIII. Although the chapel and monastic buildings were mostly demolished the area of the inner precinct of the priory maintained an autonomous administrative status as the liberty of
Norton Folgate. The adjacent outer precincts of the priory, to the south, were re-used as an
Artillery Ground and placed under the special jurisdiction of
The Tower of London as one of the
Tower liberties. (Thomas 2004: 30-75).
Spitalfields' historic association with the
silk industry was established by French Protestant (
Huguenot) refugees who settled in this area after the
Revocation of the Edict of Nantes (1685). By settling here, outside the bounds of the City, they hoped to avoid the restrictive legislation of the
City Guilds. The late 17th and 18th century saw an estate of well appointed terraced houses, built to accommodate the master weavers controlling the silk industry, and grand urban mansions built around the newly created Spital Square.
Christ Church Spitalfields, designed by the architect
Hawksmoor, was built during the reign of
Queen Anne to demonstrate the power of the
established church to the dissenting Huguenots. More humble weavers dwellings were congregated in the
Tenterground (Thomas 2004; 76-95).
Spitalfields Market was founded on 29th July 1682 on an undeveloped part of the fields. Construction began in 1684. The market was originally for both meat and vegetables, though by the 19th century the meat market had disappeared and fruit and vegetables became the staple product sold. The originally open site was converted into a covered market 1875-93 by Robert Horner and further redeveloped by the Corporation of London 1920-1935 (Thomas 2004: 96-97).
In the 19th century the textile industry first established by the Huguenots attracted a large population of Jewish refugees drawn to live and work in the area.
Irish weavers were also attracted here. By this time, the old merchant dwellings had degenerated into multi-occupied slums and Spitalfields became a by-word for urban deprivation. By 1832, concern of a London
cholera epidemic, led ''The Poor Man's Guardian'' (
18 February 1832) to write of Spitalfields:
''The low houses are all huddled together in close and dark lanes and alleys, presenting at first sight an appearance of non-habitation, so dilapidated are the doors and windows:- in every room of the houses, whole families, parents, children and aged grandfathers swarm together''.
Endemic poverty and prostitution in this area was highlighted by the sanguinary activities of the serial killer known as
Jack the Ripper, here, in the autumn of
1888, and was brought to notice by social commentators such as
Jack London in his ''
The People of the Abyss'' (
1903). He highlighted 'Itchy Park', next to Christ Church Spitalfields, as a notorious rendezvous for homeless vagrants.
In the later 20th century the Jewish presence diminished, to be replaced by an influx of
Bangladeshi immigrants, who also worked in the local textile industry and made of
Brick Lane the
curry capital of London.
Another development, from the 1960s onwards, has been a campaign to save the housing stock of old merchant terraces to the west of
Brick Lane from demolition. Many have been conserved by exponents of a 'New
Georgian' ethos, such as the architect and TV pundit
Dan Cruickshank. Such
gentrification has, however, caused massive inflation in house prices and the removal of the last of the vagrants from this area (Taylor 2001).
Current 'urban regeneration' has also seen the erection of large modern office blocks, between
Bishopsgate and
Spitalfields Market. These represent, in effect, an expansion of the
City of London, northwards, beyond its traditional bounds, into this area. However a rear-guard action by conservationists has resulted in the preservation of old Spitalfields Market and the provision of shopping, leisure amenities and a new plaza behind the city blocks (Taylor 2001).
Art Scene
The area is well known for its arts scene.
Whitechapel Gallery is located at the bottom of
Brick Lane, and amongst the many well known artists living in Spitalfields are
Gilbert and George,
Tracey Emin, and
Stuart Brisley. And at the western end of the market is the UK's only dedicated
kinetic art gallery, the
Kinetica Museum.
TV presenter, architecture expert and
Georgian fanatic,
Dan Cruickshank was both an active campaigner for Spitalfields, and continues to live in the area.
Dennis Severs foreswore modern comforts at 18 Folgate Street, living a unique life. The house, a
time capsule of the 18th century, is now open to the public.
Writer
Jeanette Winterson turned a derelict Georgian house into an organic food shop, Verde's, as part of the
slow food movement.
In Literature
Spitalfields figures in many classic and contemporary works of literature, which reflect its sense of mystery and its fascinating multicultural heritage, including:
★ ''Children of the Ghetto'' (1893) by
Israel Zangwill
★ ''
The People of the Abyss'' (1903), the journalistic memoir by
Jack London
★ ''
Hawksmoor'' (1985) by
Peter Ackroyd
★ ''
The Satanic Verses'' (1988) by
Salman Rushdie
★ ''
Brick Lane'' by
Monica Ali
★ ''Rodinsky's Room'' by
Iain Sinclair and Rachel Lictenstein
★ ''
The PowerBook'' (2000) by
Jeanette Winterson
In Film
Nineteenth century Spitalfields was recreated as the setting for the film ''
From Hell'' about Jack the Ripper. This included a reconstruction (in
Prague) of the notorious 'Ten Bells' pub (still extant on
Commercial Street): alleged to have been a rendezvous of some of the Ripper's prostitute victims, before they were murdered. In the film
Johnny Depp (as
Inspector Abberline) is seen drinking there with Ripper victim
Mary Jane Kelly.
Notable people associated with Spitalfields
★
Tracey Emin
★
Gilbert & George
★
Basil Henriques, for whom Henriques Street (formerly Berner Street) is named.
★
Dennis Severs
★
Dan Cruickshank
★
Jack Sheppard, highwayman and multiple absconder
★ Sir
Benjamin Truman, brewer
★
Mary Wollstonecraft (born, possibly at ''21 Hanbury Street''
[1])
★
Obadiah Shuttleworth (d.1734), musician
See also
★
Old Artillery Ground
★
Old Spitalfields market
★
Bethlem Royal Hospital
★
Spitalfield Riots
★
Old Truman Brewery - The ''Black Eagle Brewery'' on Brick Lane, and into surrounding streets.
★
Spitalfields Festival
Education
:''For details of education in see the
Tower Hamlets article''
References
1. 'The Wood-Michell estate: Hanbury Street west of Brick Lane', Survey of London: volume 27: Spitalfields and Mile End New Town (1957), pp. 189-93 accessed: 08 February 2007
★ Taylor, W. (2001) ''This Bright Field''. Methuen: London.
★ Thomas, Sloane and Phillpotts (1997) ''Excavations at the Priory and Hospital of St Mary Spital, London''. Museum of London: London
★ Thomas, C. (2004) ''Life and Death in Spitalfields: 2000 Years at Spitalfields''. Museum of London.
External links
★
spitalfields.org TH Council website
★
Spitalfields City Farm
★
19 Princelet Street Unrestored Huguenot Master weaver's house, with synagogue. Rarely open to the public at present, but eventually to become a museum of immigration & diversity.
★
Dennis Severs' House 18th century time capsule
★
Nighttime photos of Spitalfields, Whitechapel, etc.; a German language website, but mostly photos
★
Kinetica Museum