SEWING


Turn of the century sewing in Detroit, Michigan

Using a modern sewing machine

'Sewing' is an ancient art involving the stitching of cloth, leather, furs, or other materials, using needle and thread. Its use is nearly universal among human populations and dates back to Paleolithic times (30,000 BC). Sewing predates the weaving of cloth.
Sewing is used primarily to produce clothing and household furnishings as curtains, bedclothes, upholstery, and table linens. It is also used for sails, bellows, skin boats, banners and other items shaped out of flexible materials such as canvas and leather.
Most sewing in the industrial world is done by machines. Pieces of a garment are often first tacked together. The machine has a complex set of gears and arms which pierces thread through the layers of the cloth and semi-securely interlocks the thread.
Some people sew clothes for themselves and their families. More often home sewers sew to repair clothes, such as mending a torn seam or replacing a loose button. A person who sews for a living is known as a seamstress or seamster (from ''seamsmistress'' or ''seamsmaster''), dressmaker, tailor, or garment worker.
"Plain" sewing is done for functional reasons: making or mending clothing or household linens. "Fancy" sewing is primarily decorative, including techniques such as shirring, smocking, embroidery, or quilting.
Sewing is the foundation for many needle arts and crafts, such as applique, canvas work, and patchwork.
While sewing is often seen as a low-skill job, the task of designing good-looking three-dimensional shapes from non-stretching two-dimensional fabric generally requires extensive hands-on knowledge of the design and principles of mathematical manifolds. Flat sheets of fabric with holes and slits cut into the fabric can curve and fold in 3D space in extensively complex ways that require a high level of skill and experience to manipulate into a smooth, ripple-free design. Aligning and orienting patterns printed or woven into the fabric further complicates the design process. But once a clothing designer with these skills has created the initial product, the fabric can then be cut using templates and sewn by manual laborers or machines.

Contents
General sewing methods
Seam allowance
Occupations requiring sewing
Sewing tools and accessories
Notions (objects sewn into garments or soft goods)
Closures
Finishing and embellishment
List of stitches
References
See also
External links
Sewing Dictionary
Groups and Guilds
Pattern Drafting Software

General sewing methods


A girl hand-sewing in a 1898 painting by William-Adolphe Bouguereau.


★ Hand-sewing is still done to some extent for finishing and repairing garments. Sergers are becoming more popular for home use, but are not capable of all the functions of a traditional sewing machine. Because of this, people usually purchase a traditional sewing machine first, and purchase a serger at a later date. Serger prices typically start at two to three times the cost of a traditional sewing machine.

★ Hand-sewing: using a needle and thread with your hands to produce stitches.

★ Machine-sewing: using a machine to produce similar effects to hand-sewing, but at a much quicker speed. Sewing machines can be electrically or mechanically operated. Electric machines are by far more common.

★ Overlock Serging: trimming the edge of fabric and overcasting all in one step, sometimes with the option of stitching as well. Also used for creating artistic effects. Serging is ideal for stretchy fabrics or fabrics that should have neat edges. Virtually all commercially-sold clothing is completely made with one or more specialized industrial sergers.
Almost all of these methods can be done by either hand, sewing machine, or a serger; however, the specific techniques used can be quite different. Some methods are not appropriate for some applications, even though it may be possible to replicate another method. As an extreme, you could technically duplicate serging with hand sewing, but it would take at least several hundred times as long to do the same work. Furthermore, some techniques are not possible with other methods: making an embroidery stitch called a French knot is easy by hand, but impossible by sewing machine or serger.

Seam allowance


Seam allowance is the area between the edge and the stitching line on two (or more) pieces of material being stitched together. Seam allowances can range from 1/4 inch wide (6.35 mm) to as much as several inches. Commercial patterns for home sewers have seam allowances ranging from 1/4 inch to 5/8 inch.
Sewing industry seam allowances range from 1/4 inch for curved areas (e.g. neck line, armscye) or hidden seams (e.g. facing seams), to one inch or more for areas that require extra fabric for final fitting to the wearer (e.g. center back).

★ Dressmaking/Tailoring/General: general techniques to create clothing and other textile projects.

★ Mending: using general techniques and specialized methods such as darning to repair textiles.

Quilting: sewing together layers of fabric and/or fibrefill to make warm blankets and clothing, or used for effect. Machine quilting is most common, but quilting "purists" and traditionalists do all quilting by hand.

★ Serging: uses multiple threads to produce a stretchy and secure edge finish or seam that keeps raw edges of fabric neat. The term "serging" is commonly used to refer both to the act of sewing with a serger, and the type of effect the serger produces.

Embroidery or machine embroidery: artistic embellishment.

Occupations requiring sewing



Bookbinder

Cobbler

Corsetier

Draper

Dressmaker

Glover

Hatter

Quilting

Sailmaker

Tailor

Taxidermist

Upholsterer

Milliner

Parachute rigger

★ Seamstress

Surgeon

Sewing tools and accessories


Sewing box (~1955) with sewing notions


stitching awl

bobbin

bodkin

dress form

dressmaker's or tailor's shears

measuring tape

needle

pattern

pattern weights

pin

pincushion

rotary cutter

scissors

seam ripper

sewing table

tailor's chalk

thimble

thread

tracing paper

tracing wheel

wax, often beeswax

Notions (objects sewn into garments or soft goods)


Closures


buckle

button (buttons can be sew-through or have shanks.)


toggle

chinese frog

eye

hook

hook-and-loop tape (often known by brand name Velcro)

snap

zipper
Finishing and embellishment


beaded fringe & trim

elastic

eyelet

grommet

heading

interfacing

rivet

trims (fringe, beaded fringe, ribbons, lace, sequin tape)

List of stitches


The two main stitches of which the others are derivatives are Cross Stitch and Butterfly

back tack

backstitch

basting stitch (or tacking) - for temporary fixing

blanket stitch

blind stitch (or hem stitch)

buttonhole stitch

chain stitch

cross-stitch

darning stitch

embroidery stitch

feather stitch

hemming stitch

lockstitch

overlock

padding stitch

running stitch - for seams and gathering

sailmakers stitch

slip stitch - for fastening a folded edge to a flat piece of fabric, or to another folded edge

stretch stitch

straight stitch

topstitch

whipstitch (or oversewing stitch) - for protecting edges

zig-zag stitch

References



★ ''Singer: The New Sewing Essentials'' by The Editors of Creative Publishing International ISBN 0-86573-308-2

See also



sewing machine

External links



sewing.com - The ultimate sewing site - huge sewing dictionary (sewing dictionary), free sewing projects (sewing projects), sewing forum (sewing forum), photo gallery (sewing gallery), sewing tips (sewing tips), RSS feeds (rss feeds).

Vintage Sewing Reference Library (free online access to public domain sewing books)

Public domain sewing books

sewing machines embroidery machines and info

Sewing basic clothes
Sewing Dictionary

sewing dictionary
Huge dictionary of 300+ sewing terms
Groups and Guilds


American Sewing Guild (ASG) A national non-profit organization for hobby sewists of all levels and interests in the United States of America
Pattern Drafting Software


Wild Ginger Software, Inc. Create your own or select from hundreds of patterns to create custom-fit clothing for men, women and children. Free patterns available.

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