:''For the river in Florida, see
St. Johns River.''
The 'Saint John River' is a river, approximately 418 mi (673 km) long, located in the
Canadian province of
New Brunswick and the
U.S. state of
Maine. It forms part of the
Canada-US border in two places along its length. The river drains an area of approximately
55,000 km², of which slightly more than half is located in New Brunswick. The Saint John is also the second longest river on North America's Atlantic coastline (between the
St. Lawrence River and the
Mississippi River). Only the
Susquehanna is longer. The lower section of the River from Fredericton to Saint John is nicknamed the 'Rhine of North America', in reference to its popularity for recreational boating.
Description
The Saint John rises in
Somerset County in northwestern Maine and flows northeast through western
Aroostook County for a distance. Near
Allagash, it is joined by the
Allagash River. The portion of the Saint John River that lies entirely in
Maine is essentially a wilderness waterway. Below
St. Francis, the Saint John begins to form part of the
International Boundary between Maine and New Brunswick.
Continuing its northeast course, the river passes
Fort Kent, Maine, and then flows between
Edmundston, New Brunswick, and
Madawaska, Maine, where it turns southeast, then passes between
Van Buren, Maine, and
St. Leonard, New Brunswick. Near
Grand Falls, New Brunswick, the river enters entirely into New Brunswick, and changes direction to flow due south through the fertile
Upper St. John River Valley, framed by the rising hills of the
Appalachian range in
Victoria and
Carleton counties. At
Perth-Andover, the river is joined by the
Aroostook and the
Tobique rivers. At
Hartland, it is crossed by the longest covered bridge in the world.
Further south at
Woodstock, the river leaves the Upper Valley and turns southeast away from the border region. It is joined by the Nackawic stream at
Nackawic. Eventually, it passes through New Brunswick's capital city
Fredericton (where it becomes navigable), and the military town of
Oromocto. Turning south from Oromocto, the river is joined by the short
Jemseg River which empties New Brunswick's largest lake,
Grand Lake. South of Fredericton the river becomes broad and shallow and it meanders through many low islands used for pastureland during dry periods in summer and fall.
South of the Jemseg, the Saint John River is surrounded by the low hills of the ''St. Croix Highlands'' - another component of the Appalachian range and it is joined by several lateral bays, including
Belleisle Bay and the
Kennebecasis River. The St. John River meets the
Bay of Fundy at the industrial city of
Saint John. At the river's mouth, there is a unique phenomenon caused by the high tides of the Bay. These tides are the highest in the world and cause the river to reverse its flow twice a day in a narrow gorge in the city's centre, called the
Reversing Falls Rapids.
History
Members of the
Maliseet Nation have historically called the river "Wolastoq", meaning "good and beautiful river". In
1604, parts of the lower river were explored by
Samuel de Champlain and
Sieur de Monts. Champlain named the river after
John the Baptist because he reached the river's mouth on the saint's feast day,
June 24.
The river valley formed an important part of the French colony of
Acadia.
Acadian settlements developed along the lower river during the 17th and 18th centuries; including Fort la Tour (
Saint John) and Fort Anne (
Fredericton). The area fell under English control during the
Seven Years' War, after the English capture of Fort Anne in
1759. In
1784, many
loyalist refugees from the
Revolutionary War settled in
Saint John. The new English colony of
New Brunswick was created shortly afterwards and
Fredericton was named the capital. English settlement of the fertile Upper River Valley would not occur until the early to mid 19th century. A
Danish community (New Denmark) was established in the late 1800's. Meanwhile, francophone Quebecers settled the
Madawaska region, also during the 19th century, travelling southwards along traditional
portage routes. The Madawaska section of the river valley remains heavily francophone even today.
The river was an important trade route for the
French,
English and
First Nations traders throughout the
17th and
18th centuries. The tremendous flow rate of the river and its tributaries during the spring
freshet aided the development of the timber industry in western New Brunswick as the river became a conduit for
log drives to saw and pulp mills in the south.
It is this same spring
freshet which can proved disastrous to property owners along portions of the river, particularly when
ice jams can cause extensive flooding during the spring break-up.
The Saint John River has been of tremendous importance to the development of western New Brunswick because it served as a transportation artery, particularly prior to the era of
rail transport when
paddle wheelers plied its waterways.
During the
1950s and
1960s, the river became a major source of
hydroelectric power with the construction of
dams at
Beechwood and
Mactaquac where large
reservoirs have been created by damming its flow. These massive projects followed the construction of a smaller dam at Grand Falls, in
1925,where the river descends in a steep cataract. A consequence of the latter two dams has been a severe decline in migrating
Atlantic Salmon, and the flooding of some valuable farmland to create the headponds.
In recent years, the river has seen a rise in recreational boating and
ecotourism. The rich soil of the Upper St. John River Valley in
Aroostook,
Carleton, and
Victoria counties is also an important area for the cultivation of
potatoes.
Water Flow
The
United States Geological Survey maintains three gauges on the river to measure water flow on the portion running through its territory. The furthest upstream gauge is located in an unnamed township at () where the rivershed is 1,341
square miles. A second gauge is located at
Dickey, Maine () where the rivershed is 2,680 square miles. The third gauge is maintained in cooperation with the
Water Survey of Canada on the Canadian bank in
Clair, New Brunswick at () where the rivershed is 5,665 square miles.
WSC also maintains its own gauges on the river in New Brunswick at
Edmundston,
Grand Falls,
Fredericton,
Maugerville,
Upper Gagetown,
Gagetown,
Oak Pint, and
Saint John.
At the most upstream gauge the riverflow has ranged from 44,400
cubic feet per second to 59 cubic feet per second. At the Dickey gauge flow has ranged from 91,700 cubic feet per second to 129 cubic feet per second. At the Clair gauge flow has ranged from 151,000 cubic feet per second to 510 cubic feet per second. Water flow is highest during the spring
freshet and lowest in the fall. In early spring, upper sections of the river can experience ice jams causing flooding,
[1] while in the lower sections in the broader floodplain, flooding may occur during late spring from the sheer volume of water which must make its way through the narrow gorge at the
Reversing Falls.
See also
★
List of crossings of the Saint John River
★
List of Maine rivers
★
List of New Brunswick rivers
External links
★
St. John River watershed map and information
★
Canadian Council for Geographic Education page with a series of articles on the history of the St. John River
★
A book covering the St. John River with full color photos
★
Oceanographic study of the salt and fresh water exchange in the lower St. John River
★ Real-time river flow at
the upstream most gage,
Dickey, Maine, or
St. Clair, New Brunswick.
★
The Upper St. John River Valley history and genealogy
References
1. Water Resources Data - Maine, Water Year 2001 G.J. Stewart, J.P. Nielsen, J.M. Caldwell, A.R. Cloutier