'Puncak Jaya' (
IPA: ), sometimes called 'Mount Carstensz' or the 'Carstensz Pyramid', is the
highest mountain on the island of
New Guinea, on the
Australia-New Guinea continent and in
Oceania. It is the highest point between the
Himalayas and the
Andes and the highest island peak in the world. The peak is located in what is variously called the
Sudirman Range or the ''Dugunduguoo'', in the western central highlands of
Papua, the
Indonesian western half of the island, and is the highest peak in the country.
History
Puncak Jaya was originally called 'Carstensz Pyramid', after
Dutch explorer Jan Carstensz who first sighted the glaciers on the peak of the mountain on a rare clear day in 1623 (Carstensz was ridiculed in Europe when he said he had seen snow near the equator). This name is still used among
mountaineers. Although the snowfield of Puncak Jaya was reached as early as 1909 by a Dutch explorer, Hendrik A. Lorentz, the peak was not climbed until
1962, by an expedition led by the Austrian mountaineer
Heinrich Harrer (of ''
Seven Years in Tibet'' fame) with three friends — Temple, Kippax and Huizenga.
When Indonesia took control of the province in the 1960s, the peak was renamed 'Puntjak
Soekarno' (Simplified
Indonesian: Puncak Sukarno) or Sukarno Peak, after the first
President of Indonesia, later this was changed to Puncak Jaya. ''Puncak'' means peak or mountain and ''Jaya'' means 'victory', 'victorious' or 'glorious').
Access
Access to the peak requires a government permit. As of 2006, access is possible through various adventure tourism agencies
[2].
Glaciers
]]
While Puncak Jaya’s peak is free of ice, there are several
glaciers on its slopes, including the Carstensz Glacier, the Meren Glacier (gone by 2000), and the Northwall
Firn. Being equatorial, there is little variation in the mean temperature during the year (around 0.5°C) and the glaciers fluctuate on a seasonal basis only slightly. However, analysis of the extent of these rare equatorial glaciers from historical records show significant retreat since the 1850s, indicating a regional warming of around 0.6° C per century between 1850 and 1972.
The glacier on
Puncak Trikora in the
Pegunungan Maoke disappeared completely some time between 1939 and 1962
[3]. Since the 1970s, evidence from satellite imagery indicates the Puncak Jaya glaciers have been retreating rapidly. The Meren Glacier melted away sometime between 1994 and 2000
[4].
Climbing

The Puncak Jaya area in mid 2005, with the
Grasberg (
Freeport) copper mine pit in the foreground and remnants of the glaciers behind. The summit is at the far end of the central rib.
Puncak Jaya is one of the more demanding of the two principal
Seven Summits peak-bagging lists. It is held to have the highest technical rating, though not the greatest physical demands of that list's ascents. The standard route is up the north face and along the summit ridge, which is all hard rock surface. Despite the large mine, the area is highly inaccessible to hikers and the general public, requiring a 100-km hike from the nearest town with an airport, Timika, to the base camp, which usually takes about four or five days each way.
External links
★
Puncak Jaya on Peakware
★
Puncak Jaya on Peakbagger
References
1. The elevation given here was determined by the 1971-73 Australian Universities' Expedition and is supported by the Seven Summits authorities and modern high resolution radar data. An older but still often quoted elevation of is obsolete.
2.
Seven Summits Page
3. Glaciers of Irian Jaya, Indonesia and New Zealand Ian Allison and James A. Peterson
4. Retreat of the Irian Jaya Glaciers from 2000 to 2002 as Measured from IKONOS Satellite Images Joni L. Kincaid and Andrew G. Klein