(Redirected from Ozark Plateau)

The Saint Francois Mountains, viewed here from
Knob Lick Mountain, are the geologic core of the Ozarks.

The Ozarks and its primary physiographic regions.

Elevation map of the Ozarks. Click to enlarge.
'The Ozarks' (also referred to as 'Ozarks Mountain Country', the 'Ozark Mountains' or the 'Ozark Plateau') is a
physiographic,
geologic, and
cultural highland region of the central
United States. It covers much of the
southern half of
Missouri and an extensive portion of
northwest and north central
Arkansas. The region also extends westward into extreme southeast
Kansas and northeastern
Oklahoma.
Although sometimes referred to as the Ozark Mountains, the region is a high and deeply dissected
plateau. Geologically, the area is a broad dome around the
Saint Francois Mountains. The Ozark Highlands area, covering nearly 47,000 square miles, is by far the most extensive mountainous region between the Appalachian and Rocky Mountains. Together, the Ozarks and
Ouachita Mountains form an area known as the U.S. Interior Highlands, and are sometimes referred to collectively. For example, the
ecoregion called
Ozark Mountain Forests includes the Ouachita Mountains, although the Arkansas River valley and the Ouachitas, both south of the Boston Mountains, are not usually considered part of the Ozarks.
Origin of the name
Etymology of the name is a subject of speculation.
"Ozarks" probably derives from a phonetic English spelling of the
French abbreviation "''aux Arks''" ("toward the Arks"), short for "''aux Arkansas''"
[1] Originally referring to the
trading post at
Arkansas Post on the
Mississippi River, the term came to refer to the entire area drained by the
Arkansas and
White rivers. (The origin of the name "Arkansas" itself is speculated.) Another possible derivation is "''aux arcs''" meaning "toward the arches" in reference to a massive
natural bridge that forms an arch at Alum Cove in the
Ozark-St. Francis National Forest. This arch was used as a landmark. It is even suggested "''aux arcs''" is an abbreviation of "''aux arcs-en-ciel''", French for "toward the rainbows" which are a common sight in the mountainous regions. After the
Louisiana Purchase, American travelers in the region referred to various features of the upland areas using the term "Ozark", such as "Ozark Mountains" and "Ozark forests". By the early
20th Century, "The Ozarks" had become a generic term.
[2]
Geographic subdivisions

Big Spring in the Missouri Ozarks is one of the largest in the United States, discharging 276 million gallons of water per day.
The Ozarks consist of four primary physiographic sections—the Springfield Plateau, the Salem Plateau, the
Saint Francois Mountains, and the
Boston Mountains. Topography is mostly gently rolling, except in the Boston Mountains, along the escarpments separating the Springfield and Salem Plateaus, and the Saint Francois Range where it is rugged.
Karst features such as
springs,
sinkholes, and
caves are common in the
limestones of the Springfield Plateau and abundant in the
dolostone bedrock of the Salem Plateau and Boston Mountains.
The Boston Mountains are the highest section of the Ozarks. Summits can reach elevations of just over 2,560 feet (780m) with valleys 500 to 1,550 feet deep (150m to 450m). Turner Ward Knob (TWK) is the highest named peak. Located in western
Newton County, Arkansas, its elevation is 2,463 feet (751m). Nearby, five unnamed peaks have elevations at or slightly above 2,560 feet (780m).
The
Saint Francois Mountain Range rises above the Ozark Plateau and is the geological core of the highland dome. The
igneous and
volcanic rocks of the Saint Francois Mountains are the remains of a
Precambrian mountain range. The core of the range existed as an island in the
Paleozoic seas.
Reef complexes occur in the sedimentary layers surrounding this ancient island. These flanking reefs were points of concentration for later
ore-bearing fluids which formed the rich
lead-
zinc ores that have been and continue to be
mined in the area. The
igneous and volcanic rocks extend at depth under the relatively thin veneer of Paleozoic
sedimentary rocks and form the basal crust of the entire region.
Regional economy of the Ozarks
Traditional economic activity
The Ozarks contain ore deposits of
lead,
zinc,
iron, and
barite. Many of these deposits have been depleted by historic mining activities, but much remains and is currently being mined in the
lead belt of south-central Missouri. Historically the
Old Lead Belt around the Saint Francois Mountains and the
Tri-state district lead-zinc mining area around
Joplin, Missouri have been very important sources of metals. Much of the area supports
beef cattle ranching and
dairy farming is common across the area.
Oil exploration and extraction also takes place in the Oklahoma portion of the Ozarks, as well as in the east half of the Boston Mountains in Arkansas.
Logging of both softwood and hardwood
timber species on both private land and in the
National Forests has long been an important economic activity.
Growth industries
Tourism is the growth industry of the Ozarks as evidenced by the growth of the
Branson, Missouri entertainment center. The
Corps of Engineers lakes that were created by damming the
White River in the mid 1950s have provided a large tourist, boating and fishing economy along the Missouri-Arkansas border. The
Lake of the Ozarks and
Truman Lake in the northern Ozarks were formed by damming the
Osage River in 1931 and 1979 respectively. The
Buffalo National River, created by an Act of Congress in 1972 as the Nation's first National River administered by the National Park Service, annually draws increasing numbers of canoeists, hikers, campers and cavers to northern Arkansas. In Missouri, the
Ozark National Scenic Riverways, which while not officially a "national river," was the first US national park to be based on a river system, was established in 1964 along the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers. Over 1.3 million visitors come to the Eminence and Van Buren areas as tourists drawn by this river park.
Poultry farming and food processing has also been on the rise, recently, in eastern Oklahoma and western Arkansas. The
Tyson Foods corporation has food processing plants in western Arkansas; Stillwell foods has frozen vegetable and other food processing centers in eastern Oklahoma.
Logging and timber industries are also significant in the Ozark economy with operations ranging from small family run sawmills to large commercial concerns.
Ozark culture
'Ozark' also refers to a region of people with a distinct culture,
architecture, and
dialect shared by the people that live on the plateau. The people in this area have more in common with one another than with their surrounding states. Ozark culture is similar to that of
Appalachia and the
Upland South. Much of the population is of
Scots-Irish descent, often including some
Native American ancestry, and Ozark families tend to have lived in the area since the 19th century. Ozark religion tends to be
conservative, or
individualistic, with
Assemblies of God,
Southern Baptists, and other
Protestant Pentecostal groups predominant. The Ozarks are also home to some sects unique to the area. Beyond a few communities settled by
German Catholics and those areas (mostly Washington County) of original French settlement,
Catholicism is rare outside of the cities. Homesteads in rural areas tend to be isolated instead of being clustered into villages. Early settlers relied on
hunting,
fishing and
trapping to supplement their diets and incomes. Today hunting and fishing for recreation are common activities and an important part of the tourist industry. Foraging for
mushrooms, especially
morels, and for medicinal native plant species, including
St. John's Wort and
Ginseng, is common, and is financially supported by established buyers in the area. ''
Where the Red Fern Grows'' and the ''
Shepherd of the Hills'' are books that take place in the Ozark Mountain Area.
Other examples of the traditional nature of the Ozark culture would be the two major family theme parks in the region,
Silver Dollar City and the now defunct
Dogpatch U.S.A., both of which embrace rural, western, and 19th century life in the American midwest.

Boston Mountains in the Arkansas Ozarks.
See also
★
Green Country
★
Arkansas River
★
Buffalo National River
★
United States physiographic regions
★
List of U.S. multistate regions
★
Ozark National Scenic Riverways
★
Ozark Trail
★
Ozark Highlands Trail
★
Irish Wilderness
★
Cookson Hills
★
Vance Randolph
★
USS ''Ozark'' (1863)
★
USS ''Ozark'' (BM-7)
★
USS ''Ozark'' (LSV–2)
References
1. Stewart, George R. (1967). ''Names on the Land: A Historical Account of Place-Naming in the United States'', p. 137. Houghton Mifflin, Boston.
2. Ozark/Ozarks: Establishing a Regional Term, , Lynn, Morrow, White River Valley Historical Quarterly, 1996
★ McMillen, Margot Ford (1996) ''A to Z Missouri: The Dictionary of Missouri Place Names'', Columbia, Missouri, Pebble Publishing, ISBN 0-9646625-4-X
★ Rafferty, Milton D. (2001) ''The Ozarks: Land and Life'', University of Arkansas Press, 2nd ed., ISBN 1-55728-714-7
★ Unklesbay, A.G; & Vineyard, Jerry D. (1992) ''Missouri Geology — Three Billion Years of Volcanoes, Seas, Sediments, and Erosion'', University of Missouri Press, ISBN 0-8262-0836-3
External links
★
Bryant Creek Watershed Atlas
★
Missouri Conservation Natural Divisions Page
★
Missouri Conservation Ozarks Guide (broken link)
★
Natural Divisions of Arkansas
★
Ozark Mountain Forests Ecoregion
★
Ozark National Scenic Riverways
★
Shiloh Museum of Ozark History, Springdale, Arkansas