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Panorama view of Ngorongoro Crater
The 'Ngorongoro Conservation Area' or 'NCA' is a
conservation area situated 180 km west of
Arusha in the
Crater Highlands area of
Tanzania. The conservation area is administered by the Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority, an arm of the Tanzanian government, and its boundaries follow the boundary of the Ngorongoro Division of
Ngorongoro District.
It is 8,288 km² - about the size of
Crete.
History and Geography
Ngorongoro was declared a conservation area in
1959 and at that point it was separated from the
Serengeti National Park. The Ngorongoro Conservation Area Authority is the governing body regulating use and access to the NCA. The area became a
UNESCO World Heritage Site in
1979.
Land in the conservation area is multi-use, it is unique in Tanzania as the only conservation area providing protection status for wildlife whilst allowing human habitation. As such land use is controlled to prevent negative effects on the wildlife population, for example cultivation is prohibited at all but subsistence levels.
The area is part of the
Serengeti ecosystem, and to the north-west it adjoins the
Serengeti National Park and is contiguous with the southern Serengeti plains, these plains also extend to the north into unprotected Loliondo division and are kept open to wildlife through transhuman pastoralism practiced by
Maasai. The south and west of the area are volcanic highlands, including the famous Ngorongoro Crater and the lesser known Empakai. The southern and eastern boundaries are approximately defined by the rim of the
Great Rift Valley wall, which also prevents animal migration in these directions.
The annual
ungulate migration passes through the NCA, with
wildebeest and
zebra moving south into the area in December and moving north in June. This movement changes seasonally with the rains, but the migration will traverse almost the entire plains in search of food. The NCA has a healthy resident population of most species of wildlife, in particular the Ndutu Lake area to the west has a strong
cheetah and
lion population.
Wildlife

Wildlife at Ngorongoro Crater.

Lions in Ngorongoro Crater.

Male lion in Ngorongoro Crater.
A population of about 25,000 large animals, largely
ungulates along with the highest density of mammalian predators in Africa, lives in the crater. These include
black rhinoceros, which have declined from about 108 in 1964-66 to between 11-14 in 1995, and
hippopotamus which are very uncommon in the area. There are also many other
ungulates:
wildebeest (7,000 estimated in 1994),
zebra (4,000),
eland, Grant’s and Thomson’s
gazelles (3,000). The crater has the densest known population of
lion numbering 62 in 2001. On the crater rim are
leopard,
elephant numbering 42 in 1987 but only 29 in 1992, mountain
reedbuck and
buffalo (4,000 in 1994). However, since the 1980s the crater’s
wildebeest population has fallen by a quarter to about 19,000 and the numbers of
eland and Thomson’s
gazelle have also declined while
buffalos increased greatly, probably due to the long prevention of fire which favors high fibrous grasses over shorter less fibrous types.
In summer enormous numbers of Serengeti migrants pass through the plains of the reserve, including 1.7 million
wildebeest, 260,000
zebra and 470,000
gazelles.
Waterbuck mainly occur mainly near Lerai Forest;
servals occur widely in the crater and on the plains to the west. Common in the reserve are
lion,
hartebeest, spotted
hyena and
jackal.
Cheetah, though common in the reserve, are scarce in the crater itself.
Wild dog has recently disappeared from the crater and may have declined elsewhere in the Conservation Area as well.
Ngorongoro Crater
The main feature of the NCA is the 'Ngorongoro Crater', which is the world's largest unbroken volcanic
caldera. The Crater, which formed as the giant volcano exploded and collapsed on itself around 2 million years ago, is 610m deep and the floor is 260km². The steep sides of the crater mean that it has become a natural enclosure for a very wide variety of wildlife, including most of the species found in
East Africa. The Munge Stream drains Olmoti Crater to the north, and is the main water source draining into Lake Makat, the seasonal salt lake in the center of the Crater. The Lerai Stream (which is used for the tourist hotels and campgrounds) drains the humid forests to the south of the Crater, and it feeds the Lerai Forest on the Crater floor - when there is enough rain, the Lerai drains into Lake Makat as well. The other major water source in the Crater is the Ngoitokitok Spring, near the eastern Crater wall. There is a picnic site here open to tourists, and a huge swamp fed by the spring, and inhabited by hippopotamus, elephants, lions, and many others. Many other small springs can be found around the Crater floor, and these are important water supplies for the animals and local Masaai, especially during times of drought.
Aside from herds of
zebra,
gazelle and
wildebeest, the crater is home to the "
big five" of
rhinoceros,
lion,
leopard,
elephant and
buffalo. The crater plays host to almost every individual species of wildlife in East Africa, and there are an estimated 25,000 animals within the crater.
Olduvai Gorge
Main articles: Olduvai Gorge

Olduvai Gorge, February 2006
The conservation area also protects
Olduvai Gorge, situated in the plains area. It is considered the seat of humanity after the discovery of the earliest known specimens of modern man, ''
Homo habilis '' as well as early man ''
Paranthropus boisei''.
The Olduvai Gorge or Oldupai Gorge is a steep-sided ravine in the Great
Rift Valley, which stretches along eastern Africa. Olduvai is in the eastern
Serengeti Plains in northern
Tanzania and is about 30 miles long. The gorge is named after the
Maasai word for the wild sisal plant Sansevieria ehrenbergii, commonly called Oldupaai.
It is one of the most important
prehistoric sites in the world and has been instrumental in furthering understanding of early
human evolution. Excavation work there was pioneered by
Louis Leakey in the 1950s and is continued today by his family. Some believe that millions of years ago, the site was that of a large lake, the shores of which were covered with successive deposits of
volcanic ash. Around 500,000 years ago
seismic activity diverted a nearby stream which began to cut down into the sediments, revealing seven main layers in the walls of the gorge.
References
★
Ngorongoro Conservation Area at the
UNEP World Conservation Monitoring Centre
★
Tanzania Tourist Bureau website
★
Official UNESCO website entry
★ Deocampo, D.M., 2004. Hydrogeochemistry in the Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania, and implications for land use in a World Heritage Site. Applied Geochemistry, volume 19, p. 755-767
★ Deocampo, D.M., 2005. Evaporative evolution of surface waters and the role of aqueous CO2 in magnesium silicate precipitation: Lake Eyasi and Ngorongoro Crater, northern Tanzania. South African Journal of Geology, volume 108, p. 493-504.