
View from Balcon de Europa in Nerja
'Nerja' is a
tourism-oriented town on the
Costa del Sol in the
province of Málaga, which lies in one of
Spain's 17 autonomous regions,
Andalucía, on the country's southern,
Mediterranean coast. It lies about 50 km east of the city of
Málaga, and is within 1 hour 15 minutes drive of the
Alhambra in the city of
Granada, and 30 minutes more to skiing in the
Sierra Nevada Mountains.
History
Nerja has a long history, evidenced by the primitive paintings found in its famous
Nerja caves, discovered in
1959, and now Spain's third most-visited tourist attraction (after the
Prado in
Madrid and the
Alhambra Palace). These caves are now believed to be just one entrance to a linked series of potholes stretching many miles into the mountains between Nerja and Granada, and which may yet prove to be one of the most extensive unexplored systems in
Europe. Visitors to the caves will be able to view the remains of one of the ancient inhabitants of Nerja.
The
Romans gave the settlement the name "Detunda", and it was later taken over by the
Arabs. Under the
Muslims, it became "Narixa", which means "abundant spring", and is the origin of its present name.
Its agricultural and silk products are said to have been famed throughout the Muslim world and in the markets of
Damascus as early as the
tenth century.
The ''Balcón de Europa'', a ''mirador'' or viewpoint which gives stunning views across the sea, is in the centre of the old town. Its name is popularly believed to have been coined by
King Alfonso XII, who visited the area in
1885 following a disastrous earthquake and was captivated by the scene. However, local archive documents are said to show that its name predated this visit.
The Balcón area was originally known as La Bateria, a reference to the gun battery which existed there in a fortified tower. This emplacement and a similar tower nearby were destroyed by British led forces under
Major General Blayney in
1810 to deny their use to French occupying forces during the
Peninsular War.
Modern Nerja
In more modern times,
sugar cane production has given way to more valuable cash crops, particularly semi-tropical fruits such as
mango and
papaya and widespread
avocado plantations in what is one of the major avocado growing regions in Europe.
It is the eastern-most town in the area known as the
Axarquía and has an official population of around 20,000 — a fifth of which are foreign residents, including around 2,000 British — although the true expatriate population is probably twice that. In the summer months, tourism swells the population several times more.
Nerja has several
beaches set in charming coves beneath cliffs and one of the best
climates in Europe. It is also becoming a significant centre for walkers, thanks to the dramatic mountain scenery of the nearby
Sierra de Almijara and
Sierra Tejeda. The Sierra de Burno overlooks the town and provides an imposing challenge to climbers. Those who are willing to test their mountain skills to the full will find the southern route up this mountain especially rewarding.
Nerja is also the centre of scuba diving on the Costa del sol, with the Natural Park of Maro - Cerro Gordo nearby. On the famous Burriana Beach which is one of few EU-classified blue flag beaches, you will find several opportunities for water sports.
Twin towns
★
Pescia,
Literary Nerja
Nerja long been a source of inspiration for expatriate writers and artists, such as French born Author
Andre Launay.
Jorge Guillen and
Federico Garcia Lorca were longtime visitors and residents of the town.
Nerja in popular fiction
Fictional books that are set wholly of partly in Nerja include:
★ ''Balcony of Europe'', a novel by the Irish writer
Aidan Higgins, who based it on his Bohemian life in the village in the early 1960s.
★ ''Leisure'', early 21st century
pulp fiction about sunseeking holidaymakers, by English author
Kevin Sampson.
★ ''Encarnita's Journey'', by
Joan Lingard. The novel features a Spanish woman living in Nerja in the last decades of the
20th century, whose life story spans 8 decades in places which also include the
Alpujarras in the time of the writer
Gerald Brenan, and
Almuñécar during the time of the
Spanish Civil War.
Nerja in non-fiction works
Books describing the experience of British immigrants to the Axarquia include:
★ ''Life in the Campo'', by
Maggie Hutton
★ ''A New Life in Spain'', by
Toby Wolrych
★ ''Tomorrow is Mañana in an Andalusian Village'', by the Australian travel writer
Shirley Deane, who lived in Nerja in the mid 1950s.
★ ''The Xenophobe's Guide to the Spanish'', by
Drew Launay - the French-born author who currently resides in Nerja.
★ ''Madrid & Southern Spain'', by
Drew Launay.
★ ''Driving over lemons'', ''A parrot in the pepper tree'' and ''The almond blossom appreciation society'' by
Chris Stewart (author)
External links
★
Nerja Town Council (in Spanish & English)
★
Information about Nerja at andalucia.com
★
The Nerja Donkey Sanctuary
★
Cueva de Nerja The Nerja Caves (Spanish only)