'Massawa', formerly known as 'Mitsiwa' (
Ge'ez ምጽዋ ''miṣṣiwa'',
Arabic مصوع ''maṣṣawaʿ'',
Italian Massaua) and 'Batsiʿ' (Ge'ez ባጽዕ ''bāṣiʿ'', [Eritrean spelling reform], formerly ባፅዕ ''bāṣ́iʿ'') or Badi (Arabic بِضع ''baḍiʿ'') is a
port on the
Red Sea coast of
Eritrea. Important for many centuries, it has been colonised by
Egypt, the
Ottoman Empire,
Italy,
Britain and finally
Ethiopia until 1991. It became the capital of the Italian colony of Eritrea until this was moved to
Asmara in
1900.
History
Massawa is first mentioned in the Royal Chronicle of
Emperor Yeshaq of
Ethiopia, when the Emperor's deputy stationed there revolted in the 15th century.
[2]. For most of its history, it was little more than a seaside village, lying in lands that pertained to the Kingdom of
Axum in ancient times and overshadowed by the nearby port of
Adulis about 50Kms to the south. Following the fall of Axum in the 8th century, the area around Massawa became embattled by the
islamic forces emerging in the region (
Arabs and later
Beja peoples) and mutually rival post-Axumite christian forces from the region of
Abyssinia (commonly generalized as ''Ethiopian''). In this time,
Eritrea's oldest mosque, the Sheikh Hanafi mosque, was built on Massawa Island along with several other works of early islamic architecture both in and around Massawa (in the
Dahlak archipelago and
Zula peninsula).
Massawa became prominent in the late 16th century when it was captured by the
Ottoman Empire in
1557, who made it the capital of
Habesh, a province intended to cover all of Ethiopia but remained mainly around what is now
Eritrea. Under
Özdemur Pasha Ottoman troops then attempted to conquer the rest of Eritrea and the province of
Tigray
in Ethiopia. Due to the resistance of the Ethiopians and highland (christian) Eritreans, as well as military demands in the Mediterranean and on the border with
Persia, the Ottoman authorities placed the city and its immediate hinterlands under the control of one of the aristocrats of the
Beja people, whom they appointed
Naib of Massawa and answerable to the Ottoman governor at
Suakin.
[3] The Ottomans nevertheless built the old town of Massawa on
Massawa Island into a prominent port on the Red Sea in typical Islamic Ottoman architecture using dry corals for walls, roof and foundation as well as imported wood for beams, window shutters and balconies. These buildings and the old town of Massawa remain to this day despite having weathered both
earthquakes and wars including aerial bombardment.
During the 19th century, along with much of the African coast of the Red Sea, Massawa was ruled by
Egypt with Ottoman consent. Following the Egyptian defeat at the
Battle of Gura, Egyptian control of the port withered, and with the help of the
British, Massawa came under Italian control as part of their colony of Eritrea in
1885. In 1921 most of the City and Port of Massawa was destroyed by the
Massawa Earthquake; the ports were unable to fully recover until 1928,
[4] hampering the Italian colonial ambitions. The Italian colonialists had nevertheless built Massawa to become the largest and safest port on the east coast of Africa, and the largest
deep-water port on the Red Sea.
Italy was allied to the
Axis powers during
World War II and a large number of Italian and German ships attempted to block the then Italian harbor of Massawa. The ships were salvaged and the port was returned to service by U.S. Navy Captain
Edward Ellsberg in 1942 as part of what had now become the British protectorate of Eritrea. Following the end of the war, the port of Massawa suffered further damage as the occupying British either dismantled or destroyed much of the facilities, actions that
Sylvia Pankhurst protested in her book ''Eritrea on the Eve''.
[5] Previously landlocked Ethiopia briefly enjoyed the use of Massawa as the headquarters of the now defunct
Ethiopian Navy between 1952 (when Eritrea entered into a federation with Ethiopia) and 1990
during which Ethiopia dismantled the federation and forcibly annexed and occupied Eritrea leading to the Eritrean War of Independence (1961-1991). Units of the
Eritrean People's Liberation Front captured Massawa in a surprise attack from both land and sea in February
1990. Their success cut the major supply line to the Second Ethiopian Army in
Asmara, which then had to be supplied by air. In response, the then leader of Ethiopia
Mengistu Haile Mariam ordered Massawa bombed from the air, resulting in considerable damage, although
as of 2005 this is currently being rebuilt by the Eritrean government.
With Eritrea's defacto independence (complete military liberation) in 1991, Ethiopia reverted to being landlocked and its Navy
was dismantled (partially taken over by the nascent national navy of Eritrea).
Other features
Massawa is also home to a
naval base, large
dhow docks, the
Massawa International Airport and a
railway line to
Asmara.
Ferries sail to the
Dahlak Islands and nearby
Green Island.
Notable buildings in the city include the shrine of
Sahaba[6] and the
fifteenth century Sheikh Hanafi Mosque and various houses of
coral. Many
Ottoman buildings survive, such as the
bazaar. Later buildings include the
Imperial Palace, built in
1872 to 1874 for
Werner Munzinger;
St Mariam Cathedral; the
1930s Villa Melotti and the
1920s Banco d'Italia. The Eritrean War of Independence is commemorated in a
memorial of three
tanks in the middle of Massawa.
References
1. Identification and evaluation of reuse-oriented sanitation concepts for Massawa, Eritrea
2. The Historical Geography of Ethiopia: From the First Century AD to 1704, , G. W. B., Huntingford, Oxford University Press, 1989, ISBN 0-19-726055-1
3. Richard Pankhurst, ''The Ethiopian borderlands'' (Lawrenceville: Red Sea Press, 1997), p. 270.
4. Historical Dictionary of Eritrea, , Tom, Killion, The Scarecrow Press, 1998, ISBN 0-8108-3437-5
5. Also detailed in the chapter "The Feminist Fuzzy-Wuzzy" of Michela Wong's ''I didn't do it for you: how the world betrayed a small African nation'' (New York: Harper-Perennial, 2005), pp. 116-150.
6. Massawa: A Guide to the Built Environment, , Naigzy, Gebremedhin, Francescana Printing Press, ,