'Masherbrum' (also known as 'K1') is the
22nd highest mountain in the world and the
11th highest in
Pakistan.
It is the highest peak of the Masherbrum Mountains, a subrange of the
Karakoram mountain range. It is a large and striking peak, which is somewhat overshadowed by the nearby 8000m peaks of the Karakoram, that includes four of the fourteen
Eight-thousanders, namely
K2,
Gasherbrum I,
Broad Peak and
Gasherbrum II.
The meaning of the name is not entirely clear. It may come from ''mashadar'' (muzzle-loading gun) plus ''brum'' (mountain), from the resemblance of the double summit to an old muzzle-loader. It may also come from ''masha'' (queen or lady), giving "queen of peaks." Other meanings have also been suggested.
__NOTOC__
Location
Masherbrum lies on the south side of the
Baltoro Glacier, in the heart of the
central Karakoram. The Baltoro Glacier is the route most commonly used to access the 8000m peaks of the Karakoram, and many trekkers also travel on the Baltoro. Masherbrum also lies at the north end of the
Hushe valley, which serves as the southern approach to the peak.
History
In 1856,
Thomas Montgomerie, a British Royal Engineers lieutenant, noticed a tall mountain in the Karakorams and called it K1 (denoting peak 1 of the Karakorams). To the local people of the area, it is known as Masherbrum.
Masherbrum was reconnoitered in 1911 by the intrepid Dr. William H. Workman and his wife Mrs. Fanny Bullock Workman. It was first attempted in 1938 from the south; the attempt failed just short of the summit.
After two more failed expeditions, in 1955 and 1957, Masherbrum was first climbed in 1960 by
George Irving Bell and
Willi Unsoeld, part of an
American-
Pakistani expedition led by Nick Clinch. They succeeded in climbing the southeast face route that had stymied the earlier parties.
The
Himalayan Index lists three additional ascents and six additional failed attempts on Masherbrum. The ascents include two by additional routes, the NW Face and the NW Ridge/N Face.
Sources
★ H. Adams Carter, "Balti Place Names in the Karakoram", ''
American Alpine Journal 49 (1975), p. 53.
★ Jill Neate, ''High Asia: An Illustrated History of the 7000 Metre Peaks'', ISBN 0-89886-238-8
★
Himalayan Index
External links
★
Masherbrum on Peakware - photos
★
Photos from a 1999 attempt