
Islands map
'''Marquesas' redirects here. You may have been looking for the '
Marquesas Keys' in the U.S. State of Florida.''
The 'Marquesas Islands' are a group of
islands in
French Polynesia. In
French they are known as the 'Îles Marquises' or 'Archipel des Marquises' or 'Marquises', and in
Marquesan they are known variously as 'Te Henua (K)enana' (
North Marquesan) and 'Te Fenua `Enata' (
South Marquesan), which means "The Land of Men". They are located at 9º 00S, 139º 30W. The highest point is 1190 m (3904 ft.), the peak of Mount Temetiu on Hiva Oa.
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History
Main articles: Marquesas history
The first recorded settlers of the Marquesas were
Polynesians, who, from
archæological evidence, are believed to have arrived before
100 AD.
Ethnological and
linguistic evidence suggests that they likely arrived from the region of
Tonga and
Samoa.
The islands were given their name by the Spanish explorer
Álvaro de Mendaña de Neira who reached them in
1595. He named them after his patron,
García Hurtado de Mendoza, Marquis of Cañete, who was
Viceroy of Peru at the time. Mendaña visited first
Fatu Hiva and then
Tahuata before continuing on to the
Solomon Islands.
The
American navigator Capt.
Joseph Ingraham first visited the northern Marquesas while commanding the
brig ''
Hope'' in
1791, giving them the name 'Washington Islands'. In
1813, Commodore
David Porter claimed
Nuku Hiva for the
United States, but the
United States Congress never ratified that claim, and in
1842,
France, following a successful
military operation on behalf of a native chief (named
Iotete) who claimed to be
king of the whole of the island of Tahuata, took possession of the whole group, establishing a settlement (abandoned in
1859) on Nuku Hiva. French control over the group was reestablished in
1870, and later incorporated into the territory of
French Polynesia.
Of all the major island groups of the
Pacific, the Marquesas Islands suffered the greatest population decline as a result of
diseases brought by
European explorers, reducing the estimated sixteenth century population of over 100,000 inhabitants, to about 20,000 by the middle of the nineteenth century, and to just over 2,000 by the beginning of the 1900s. During the course of the twentieth century, the population increased to about 8,500 by
2002, not including the Marquesan community residing on
Tahiti.
Geography
Main articles: Marquesas geography

Rainforest on Fatu-Hiva.
The Marquesas Islands are the island group farthest from any continent in the world, lying between 400 and 600 miles (600 and 1,000 km) south of the
equator and approximately 1,000 miles (1,600 km) northeast of
Tahiti. They fall naturally into two geographical divisions: the northern group, consisting of
Eïao,
Hatutu (
Hatutaa),
Motu One, and the islands centered around the large island of
Nuku Hiva:
Motu Iti (
Hatu Iti),
Ua Pou,
Motu `Oa and
Ua Huka, and the southern group of
Fatu Uku,
Tahuata,
Moho Tani (
Motane),
Terihi,
Fatu Hiva and
Motu Nao (Thomasset Rock), clustered around the main island of
Hiva `Oa.
With a combined land area of 1,274 km² (492 sq. miles), the Marquesas are among the largest island groups of French Polynesia, Nuku Hiva being the second largest island in the entire territory, after
Tahiti. With the exception of Motu One, all the islands of the Marquesas are of volcanic origin.
In contrast to the common perception of lush tropical vegetation that goes culturally hand-in-hand with the appellation "Polynesia", the Marquesas are remarkably dry islands. Although the islands lie within the tropics, they are the first major break in the prevailing easterly winds spawned from the extraordinarily dry (from an atmospheric perspective)
Humboldt Current. Because of this, the islands are subject to frequent drought conditions, and only those which reach highest into the clouds (generally, above about 2,500 feet above sea level) have reliable precipitation. This has led to historical fluctuations in water supply, which factor has played a crucial rôle in the sustainability of human populations in certain sections of the various islands throughout the archipelago. This is especially evident in the low historical population of Ua Huka (maximum elevation 2,812 ft.) and the intermittent inhabitability of Eiao (maximum elevation 1,890 ft.).
Islands of the Marquesas
Northern Marquesas
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Eiao
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Hatutu
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Motu Iti
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Motu `Oa
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Motu One
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Nuku Hiva
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Ua Huka
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Ua Pou
Southern Marquesas
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Fatu Hiva
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Fatu Huku
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Hiva `Oa
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Moho Tani
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Motu Nao
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Tahuata
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Terihi
Seamounts
There are also a number of
seamounts or shoals, located primarily in the area of the northern Marquesas. Among these are:
★
Clark Bank
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Hinakura Bank
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Lawson Bank
Geology
Main articles: Marquesas geology

Basaltic rock
With the exception of
Motu One, all of the Marquesas Islands are
high islands. Motu One is a
low island, comprising two small
sand banks awash on a
coral reef. Unlike the majority of the islands of French Polynesia, the Marquesas are not surrounded by protective fringing reefs. Except for at Motu One, and in bays and other protected areas, the only coral in the Marquesas is found in a rather strange place: on the top of the island of
Fatu Huku.
The
South Equatorial Current lashes the islands mercilessly, which has led to
sea-caves dotting the islands' shores. Except for where the valleys empty into the small bays, the islands are remarkable for their mountain ridges, which end abruptly as cliffs where they meet the sea.
The islands are estimated to range in age from the youngest, Fatu Hiva (1.3my) to the oldest, Eiao (6my).
Government
Main articles: Marquesas Islands government

Hanavave
The center of government is
Tai o Ha`e on Nuku Hiva, although the former capital,
Atuona on Hiva `Oa, still serves as the administrative center for the southern islands.
Administratively, the Marquesas Islands form the administrative subdivision of the Marquesas Islands (''la subdivision administrative des (Îles) Marquises''), one of
French Polynesia's five administrative subdivisions (''subdivision administratives''). Geographically, the administrative subdivision of the Marquesas Islands (''la subdivision administrative des (Îles) Marquises'') is identical with the electoral circumscription of the Marquesas Islands (''circonscription des Îles Marquises''), one of
French Polynesia's six electoral districts/circumscriptions (''circonsriptions électorales'') for the
Assembly of French Polynesia (see also
Politics of French Polynesia).
Language
Main articles: Marquesan language
Although
French and
Tahitian are the only official languages of French Polynesia, and therefore of the Marquesas Islands as well, the
Marquesan languages, in their various forms, remain the primary means of communication within the archipelago.
'
Marquesan' is a collection of
East-Central Polynesian dialects, of the
Marquesic group, spoken in the
Marquesas Islands of
French Polynesia. They are usually classified into two groups,
North Marquesan and
South Marquesan, roughly along geographic lines.
The North Marquesan dialects are spoken on the islands of
Ua Pu and
Nuku Hiva, and South Marquesan dialects on the islands of
Hiva `Oa,
Tahuata and
Fatu Hiva. The dialects of
Ua Huka are often incorrectly classified as North Marquesan; they are instead transitional. While the island is in the northern Marquesas group, the dialects show more morphological and phonological affinities with South Marquesan. The North Marquesan dialects are sometimes considered two separate languages: North Marquesan and
Tai Pi Marquesan, the latter being spoken in the valleys of the eastern third of the island of Nuku Hiva, in the ancient province of
Tai Pi.
The most striking feature of the Marquesan languages is their almost universal replacement of the or of other Polynesian languages by a (glottal stop).
Like other Polynesian languages, the phonology of Marquesan languages is characterized by a paucity of consonants and a comparative abundance of vowels.
Demographics
Main articles: Marquesas demographics

Marquesans performing a dance
The population of the Marquesas Islands at the
2002 census was 8,712 inhabitants, which is on the rise, but still far lower than 16th century estimates which put the population at over 100,000. Much of the population was wiped out by
Small pox between 1600 and 1900, when the population was counted at just under 2,000.
Communications
Airports
There are four airports in the Marquesas, one each on the islands of Nuku Hiva, Ua Pu, Ua Huka, and Hiva Oa. The terrain of Tahuata is too irregular to allow for the construction of a landing strip without significant investment, and while the upland plateau of central Fatu Hiva is large enough to permit the construction of an airstrip, the island's minuscule population makes such an exercise of dubious benefit.
Telecommunications
The Marquesas are served by
telephone as well as by
radio and
television mainly from
Tahiti.
Culture
Main articles: Marquesan culture
The Marquesas Islands were once a major center of eastern
Polynesian civilization.
Biology
The
ecosystem of the Marquesas has been devastated in some areas by the activities of
feral livestock. As a first step in preserving what remains, the
Marquesan Nature Reserves were created in
1992.
In Western culture
★ Famous French painter
Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer
Jacques Brel spent the last years of their lives in the Marquesas, and are buried there. Brel composed a famous song, ''Les Marquises'', about the Marquesas Islands, his last home.
★ The Marquesas provided inspiration to American novelist
Herman Melville, whose experiences in the Marquesas formed the basis for his novel ''
Typee''. (Despite some sources,
Omoo is based in the
Society Islands, not in the Marquesas.)
★
Robert Louis Stevenson visited the Marquesas in
1888, and wrote about his experiences and impressions there in
1900, in a book called
''In the South Seas''.
★
Frederick O'Brien wrote a
1919 book
''White Shadows in the South Seas'' based on his experiences in the Marquesas. This book was also adapted into an
MGM movie of
1928.
★
Thor Heyerdahl wrote his book ''
Fatu Hiva'' during a year-long stay on the island.
★ The island group is also mentioned in passing in the
Crosby, Stills & Nash song, "
Southern Cross".
★ The Marquesas Islands temporarily received an international spotlight in the
United States when the reality TV show '' was filmed on
Nuku Hiva. It was the fourth installment of the TV series ''
Survivor''.
See also

Hakahau
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Jacques Brel
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Paul Gauguin
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French overseas departments and territories
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Administrative divisions of France
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Politics of French Polynesia
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Islands controlled by France in the Indian and Pacific oceans
External links
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Official site (Tahiti Tourism board)
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Finding French Polynesia
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The Marquesas Online
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Effects of the 1946 Aleutian Tsunami on the Marquesas Is.
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Flora of the Marquesas Islands
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History of the Marquesas Islands
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Satellite Images of the Marquesas Islands
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Encarta Map
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WorldAtlas.com's map of the Marquesas--includes most of the islands
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Administrative divisions of the Marquesas Islands
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Pacific Islands Travel's Marquesas Page
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Marquesas Islands Homepage
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http://cecile.barbet.free.fr/ (in French)
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Polynesian Cultural Center's Marquesas Islands information page
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http://www.alptuna.com