'Kodungallur' (anglicised name: 'Cranganore' ) is a city and a
municipality in
Thrissur district in the
Indian
state of
Kerala. It is known in ancient times as Shinkli, Muchiri (anglicised to Muziris), Muyirikkodu, Muchiripattinam was a famous and prosperous sea-port at the mouth of the
Periyar (also known as ''Choorni Nadi'') river in the
southern Indian state of
Kerala. It is located about 38 km from the present day city of
Kochi at upon NH 17.
The name Muchiri (
Malayalam for cleft lip) denotes the three branches of the Periyar river that open into the
Arabian Sea at the town.
Geography
Kodungallur is located at
[1]. It has an average elevation of 9
metres (29
feet).
Ancient fame
Kodungallur was a critical trade link in
Indian Ancient Maritime History. It was known as ''Muziris'' to
Pliny the Elder (N.H. 6.26) who describes it as ''primum emorium Indiae''.
The port was familiar to the author of the
Periplus of the Erythraean Sea which described it as being situated on river ''Pseudostomos'' (
Greek for "false mouth" - a precise translation of the
Malayalam description of the mouth of the Periyar, ''Alimukam'') two miles from its mouth
[2].
The
ancient Greek explorer,
Hippalus landed at this port after discovering the patterns of the Indian
monsoon trade winds on his way from the East coast of Africa. The evidence of the
Peutinger Table suggests that there was a temple to the
Roman emperor Augustus.
The
Greeks, the
Romans (known locally as the ''Yavanas''), and the
Jews all have come to this place at different times in its ancient history.
Roman gold and silver coins bearing impressions of Roman Emperors
Tiberius and
Nero were discovered in the village of Parur near the town during
2000.
A second-century
papyrus from
Egypt concerning the transshipment of goods originating in Muziris from the Red Sea to
Alexandria attests the continued importance of the port in the
Indian Ocean commerce a century after Pliny and the ''Periplus''.
[3]
Thomas the Apostle of
Jesus with his followers is believed to have landed in Cranganore in the year
AD 52 and preached the
gospel. It thus became the earliest ''Nasrani''
Syrian Christian centre of
Malabar with monuments built in the memory of Thomas still existing. The existence of a thriving
Christian Community here attracted the attention of others and the Bishops who came from
Persia chose this place for their residence. The bones of the right hand of St Thomas were placed in
1953 as a memento.
Malik Ibn Dinar and 20 others who were the followers of Prophet
Muhammad, the founder of
Islam, first landed here when they came to India. Islam received royal patronage in some states here, and later spread to other parts of India. He built a mosque there in the shape of a Hindu temple. It could also have been the first mosque in the Indian subcontinent as the exact date of making is not known but is believed to be in 629 AD. Though, generally it is considered to be the second mosque of the world after the mosque in
Medina,
Saudi Arabia

The renovated Cheraman Juma Masjid
Kodungallur was also the capital of
Cheraman Perumal, the last
Chera ruler, in the 7th century AD who is believed to have been abdicated his throne and divided his kingdom among thelocal chieftains and left for Mecca to embrace Islam After this, This place was later ruled by
Perumpadapu Swaroopam for sometime.
The Syrian Church was firmly established here before the 9th century. In fact the Jews' settlement in Kodungallu was still earlier. The latter, claimed to hold grants dated A.D. 378. The cruelty of the Portuguese drove most of the Jews to Cochin. Up to 1314, when the Vypin harbour was formed, the only opening in the Cochin backwater, and outlet for the Periyar, was at Kodungalur, which must then have been the best harbour on the coast. In 1502 the Syrian Christians invoked the protection of the Portuguese. With the influence of Portuguese, most of the Syrian Christians accepted Latin Rite in Kodungallur. Kodungallur was an archdiocese before it was moved to Goa. Catholics in Kodungallur today belong to Kottappuram Diocese. In 1523 Portuguese built their first fort there, and in 1565 enlarged it. In 1661 the
Dutch took the fort, the possession of which for the next forty years was contested between this nation, the
zamorin, and the
raja of Kodungalur. In 1776,
Tipu Sultan seized the stronghold. The Dutch recaptured it two years later, and, having ceded it to Tipu Sultan in 1784, sold it to the Travancore raja, and again in 1789 to Tippoo, who destroyed it in the following year. After Tipu's death, The Kodungallur kovilakam controlled the lands of Kodungalur. The Kodungalur then formed an autonomous principality and a subordinate to the Raja of Cochin and remained thus until
Indian Independence in 1947.
Flood of 1341
The flood of the river Periyar in
1341 AD resulted in the splitting of the river into two tributaries at Thottummukham. That silted up the natural harbour at the mouth of the river, and resulted in the creation of a new harbour at Kochi. During this time there was the rise of the
Samoothiri Rajas of
Kozhikode. A local area called the ''Putu Vaipu'' or Vypin
The town was nearly completely destroyed by the Portuguese (Suarez de Menezes) on
September 1,
1504 in retaliation for the
Samoothiri Raja's actions against them
[4].
Perumpadapu Swaroopam still has their roots here.
The present day natural beauty of the place is enchanting, and it is a popular tourist destination today.
Sights

Kodungallur Kurumba Temple

Elephant carrying ''Thidambu'' during a Temple festival
The present day town has some very interesting monuments for the tourist to view:
★ Kodungallur Bagavathy temple - believed to have been constructed during the reign of
Chera King,
Cheran Senkuttuvan, is famous for its
Bharani festival. The temple requires the pilgrim to carry pepper as one of the offerings to the deity.
★
Kali temple - has an interesting history since it portrays the
Hindu goddess,
Kali with only one breast. It was believed to have been built to immortalise a woman called
Kannagi who was led through the wilderness by a
Jain monk, and who in turn led the local people. The temple is famous for its annual festival where alcohol is drunk and lewd songs are sung by
untouchables. The pattern of alternation makes it possible for a single female figure to contain polar opposite qualities; this female is both chaste and vulgar, socially proper and socially unacceptable, clean and unclean.
★ Cheraman Jama Masjid - built around
629 AD by
Malik Ibn Dinar in the typical local style of architecture and the bodies of some of the original followers are said to have been buried here. This is said to be the first
mosque constructed in India.
★ Kodungallur is also famous for Bharani/Thalapoli Festivals.
★ Thiruvanchikulam Mahadeva temple - One of the oldest Siva temples in south India where Lord Siva is said to live along with his whole family. This temple has got a healthy relation with south India's famous
Chidambaram temple. This temple has another rare event called "
Anayottam" which is part of the annual festival.
Various names
Kodungallur has enjoyed various names over the past millennia. In addition to those mentioned previously these are Jangli, Gingaleh, Cyngilin, Shinkali, Chinkli/Jinkali, Shenkala, Cynkali, Columguria.There is also a belief that the name Kodungallur is derived from Kodi-linga-puram(Core Siva Lingas).
Demographics
As of 2001 India
census[5], Kodungallur had a population of 33,543. Males constitute 47% of the population and females 53%. Kodungallur has an average literacy rate of 83%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 86%, and female literacy is 81%. In Kodungallur, 10% of the population is under 6 years of age.
References
1. Falling Rain Genomics, Inc - Kodungallur
2. Menachery, Professor George. ''Kodungallur - The Cradle of Christianity In India'', Thrissur: Marthoma Pontifical Shrine, 2000, Ch.I
3. Thür, G. 1987. Hypotheken Urkunde eines Seedarlehens für eine Reise nach Muziris und Apographe für die Tetarte in Alexandria (zu P. Vindob. G. 40. 8222). ''Tyche'' 2:229-245.
4. Logan, William. ''Malabar Manual'', Delhi, Asian Educational Services, 2000, 1186 pgs. pp 312, ISBN 81-206-0446-6 (Originally published in Madras, 1887).
5.
See also
★
Perumpadapu Swaroopam
★
Cochin Jews
★
Knanaya
★
Kerala
★
Saint Thomas Christians
★
Trichur
★
North Paravur
External links
★
Indian Christianity - Cranganore:Past and Present
★
Indian Christianity - The Glory that was Cranganore
★
Catholic Diocese of Kottapuram