
Heinrich Harrer
'Heinrich Harrer' (
July 6,
1912 –
January 7,
2006) was an
Austrian mountaineer, sportsman,
geographer, and
author.
[William J. Kole. ''Mountaineer became tutor of young Dalai Lama'', Brantford Expositor (ON). News, Tuesday, January 10, 2006, p. B9. accessed on October 6, 2006.]
Athletics
Heinrich Harrer was born in
Hüttenberg,
Carinthia to a postal worker. From
1933 to
1938 Harrer studied
geography and
sports at the
Karl-Franzens University in
Graz. Harrer became a member of the traditional
student corporation ATV Graz.
He was designated to participate in the
combined Alpine skiing competition at the
1936 Winter Olympics in
Garmisch-Partenkirchen. However, the Austrian Alpine skiing team decided to boycott the event due to a conflict regarding the skiing instructor's status as professionals. As a result, Harrer did not participate.
He won the downhill event at the following year's World Student Games.
Harrer made the
first ascent of the North Face of the
Eiger,
Switzerland with
Anderl Heckmair,
Fritz Kasparek and
Ludwig Vörg on
July 24,
1938. This climb is recounted in the book ''
The White Spider''.
Nazi involvement
With the rise of the
Nazi party in Austria, Harrer became a member of the
SA (in October 1933). He held the rank of SA Oberscharführer (sergeant). He made no secret of his allegiance to National Socialism and was photographed with
Adolf Hitler. Austria was
absorbed into Germany in March 1938 and so he was part of a German expedition to
Nanga Parbat in the
Himalayas, in present-day
Pakistan in summer 1939. Harrer had joined the
SS and the
NSDAP in 1938.
After the 1997 release of film adaptation of ''
Seven Years in Tibet'', questions were raised about Harrer's Nazi past and Harrer acknowledged that his membership of the party had been a "stupid mistake". Since he was out of the country almost continuously during the Nazi period, he was not involved in illegal actions.
Nonetheless, after the start of
World War II in
1939, Harrer was captured by
British colonial authorities as an enemy alien and
interned in
Dehradun, along with 1,000 other "enemy aliens", mostly civilians. He escaped on May 10,
1944, with
Peter Aufschnaiter and two Germans, Hans Kopp and Bruno Treipel. They promptly made their way into the Himalayan foothills, which began within sight of the camp. As they were in constant fear of rearrest, they made a beeline for
Tibet, their route being north-northeast throughout, in as straight a line as possible. They transited
Mussoorie and
Landour, forded the Aglar river at Thatyur, crossed the Nag Tibba range via Deolsari, descended to Uttarkashi and eventually passed Harsil, Bhaironghati and Nelang. On May 17, 1944, they crossed the Tsang Chok-la Pass (5,896 meters or 19,350 ft.) and entered Tibet. (They had considered heading for
Goa, then a Portuguese colony and thereby a
neutral port, but it was too far away.)

Cover from 1954 edition of ''Seven Years in Tibet''.
Post-war years
After traversing southwestern Tibet and stopping for extended periods in various towns, Harrer and Aufschnaiter entered
Lhasa in February 1946. Kopp and Treipel had gone their separate ways, but Harrer and Aufschnaiter would remain in Tibet for a total of almost seven years. Harrer became a friend of the young
Dalai Lama Tenzin Gyatso, who had summoned him to the
Potala Palace after having seen him repeatedly in the streets below the palace through his telescope. Harrer taught the Dalai Lama (who was eleven years old when they met) much about the outside world and effectively served as his tutor. The Dalai Lama has often credited Harrer's later writings about Tibet as having helped focus international attention on the plight of the Tibetan people after
Communist Chinese invasion.
After the Communist Chinese invasion of Tibet in 1950, Harrer returned to Austria where he documented his experiences in the books ''
Seven Years in Tibet'' and ''
Lost Lhasa''. ''Seven Years in Tibet'' was translated into 53 languages, sold three million copies and was the basis of the
1997 film of the same title.
[1] In
1952 he returned to
Europe and later on took part in a number of ethnographic as well as mountaineering expeditions: Alaska,
Andes,
Ruwenzori (Mountains of the Moon) in Africa. Harrer recorded first ascents of
Mount Deborah and
Mount Hunter,
Alaska in
1954. In
1962 he was the leader of the team of four climbers who made the first ascent of the
Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jayadikesuma) in western
New Guinea, the highest peak in
Oceania.
Harrer took up golf in 1958 and became Austrian amateur champion. He also remained an active skier well into his eighties.
Harrer died on January 7, 2006.
Bibliography
★ ''
Seven Years in Tibet'', 1953.
★ ''
Lost Lhasa''
★ ''
★ ''Ladakh Gods and Mortals Behind the Himalayas''
★ ''Return to Tibet''
★ ''Tibet is My Country'' (life story of the Dalai Lama's brother,
Thubten Jigme Norbu)
★ ''Denk ich an Bhutan'', June 2005 (When I Think of Bhutan)
★ ''I Came from the Stone Age'', 1965 (the story of his ascent to
Carstensz Pyramid in
Netherlands New Guinea in 1962)
★ ''Beyond Seven Years in Tibet: My Life Before, During, and After'', his full autobiography is to be published in English in the UK in July 2007.
External links
★
Obituary in
The Economist (January 21 2006 edition)
★
★
Seven Years in Tibet, Book Review at The Open Critic (1956)
★
Harrer Museum Huettenberg
★
Sixty Years a hero - and Now a Scandal?
References
1. Seven Years in Tibet at the Internet Movie Database