The 'Great Dismal Swamp' is a marshy region on the Coastal Plain of southeastern
Virginia and northeastern
North Carolina between
Norfolk, Virginia, and
Elizabeth City, North Carolina in the
United States. It is a southern
swamp, the northernmost of many along the
Atlantic Ocean's coast which includes the
Everglades and the
Big Cypress Swamp in
Florida, the
Okefenokee Swamp in
Georgia, the
Congaree Swamp and
Four Holes swamps of
South Carolina, and some of the
Carolina bays in the Carolinas. Along the eastern edge runs the
Dismal Swamp Canal, completed in 1805.
Essential to the swamp
ecosystem are its
water resources, native
vegetative communities, and varied
wildlife species. The Great Dismal Swamp's
ecological significance and its wealth of
history and lore make it a unique
wilderness. It is one of the last large and wild areas remaining in the Eastern United States.
After centuries of
logging and other
human activities which were devastating the swamp's ecosystems, the
Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge was created in 1973 when the
Union Camp Corporation of
Franklin, Virginia donated 49,100 acres (200 km²) of land; the refuge was officially established through The Dismal Swamp Act of 1974.
The
refuge consists of over 111,000 acres (500 km²) of forested wetlands.
Lake Drummond, a 3,100 acre (13 km²) natural
lake, is located in the heart of the swamp. Outside the boundaries of the National Refuge, the state of
North Carolina has preserved and protected additional portions of the swamp, as the
Great Dismal Swamp State Natural Area.
History
Scientists believe the Great Dismal Swamp was created when the
Continental shelf made its last big shift. The whole swamp has
peat underneath.
The origin of
Lake Drummond, one of only two natural lakes in Virginia, is disputed. Scientists believe the lake could have been created by the
impact of a
meteoroid because it is oval shaped, looking like the impact of a meteoroid. They think it was made by a big meteoroid like the ones that are thought to have made the Carolina Bays. Other people believe it was made by a large underground
peat burn about 3,500 to 6,000 years ago. Indian legend talks about "the
fire bird" creating
Lake Drummond.
People are not sure who discovered the Great Dismal Swamp but there is archaeological evidence which indicates human occupation began nearly 13,000 years ago.
By 1650, few
American Indians remained in the area, and European settlers showed little interest in the swamp. In 1665,
William Drummond, a future governor of
North Carolina, was the first European to explore the lake which now bears his name.
William Byrd II led a
surveying party into the swamp to draw a dividing line between Virginia and North Carolina in 1728.
George Washington visited the swamp and then formed the Dismal Swamp Land Company in 1763, which proceeded to drain and havest
timber from part of the area. A five-mile
ditch on the west side of the current refuge there still bears his name. In 1805, the
Dismal Swamp Canal began serving as a commercial highway for timber coming out of the swamp.

''Fugitive Slaves in the Dismal Swamp, Virginia''
David Edward Cronin, 1888
Before and during the
American Civil War, the Great Dismal Swamp was a hideout for runaway
slaves from the surrounding area. Some people believe there were at least a thousand slaves living in the swamp. This was the subject of '',
Harriet Beecher Stowe's follow-on to ''
Uncle Tom's Cabin''.
While all efforts to drain the swamp ultimately failed,
logging of the swamp proved to be a successful commercial activity. Regular logging operations continued as late as 1976. The entire swamp has been logged at least once, and many areas have been burned by periodic
wildfires. The Great Dismal Swamp has been drastically altered by humanity over the past two centuries. Agricultural, commercial, and residential development destroyed much of the swamp, so that the remaining portion within and around the refuge represents less than half of the original size of the swamp.
Before the refuge was established, over 140 miles of
roads were constructed to provide access to the
timber. These roads severely disrupted the swamp's natural
hydrology, as the ditches which were dug to provide soil for the road beds drained water from the swamp. The roads also blocked the flow of water across the swamp's surface, flooding some areas of the swamp with
stagnant water. The
logging operations removed natural stands of
bald cypress and
Atlantic white cypress that were replaced by other forest types, particularly
red maple. A drier swamp and the suppression of wildfires, which once cleared the land for seed
germination, created ecological conditions that were less favorable to the survival of cypress stands. As a result, plant and animal variety decreased.
Preservation
In the mid
20th century, conservation groups from all over America began demanding that something be done to preserve what was left of the Great Dismal Swamp. In 1973, the
Union Camp Corporation, a paper company based in
Franklin, Virginia which had had large land property in the area since the beginning of the 20th century, donated just over 49,000 acres (198 km²) of its land to
The Nature Conservancy, which transferred the property the following year to the
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
The
Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge was officially established by the
U.S. Congress through The Dismal Swamp Act of 1974. The refuge consists of almost 107,000 acres (433 km²) of forested wetlands.
The primary purpose of the refuge's resource management programs is to restore and maintain the natural
biological diversity that existed prior to the human-caused alterations. Essential to the swamp ecosystem are its water resources, native vegetation communities, and varied wildlife species. Water is being conserved and managed by placing water control structures in the ditches. Plant community diversity is being restored and maintained through forest management activities which simulate the ecological effects of wildfires. Wildlife is managed by insuring the presence of required habitats, with
hunting used to balance some wildlife populations with available food supplies.
Today
The
Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge is located not only between two states, but also between two
eco-regions, allowing for a wide range of plant and animal species. Baldcypress,
tupelo,
maple, Atlantic white cypress, and
pine are the predominant tree species found on the refuge and support the wildlife within. Many
mammal species, including
black bear,
bobcat,
otter, and
weasel, along with over 70 species of
reptiles and
amphibians including
alligators call the swamp home. More than 200
bird species can be seen at the swamp throughout the year, while 96 of those are known to nest on the refuge.
Lake Drummond is the middle of activity in the swamp today, though, with many fishermen, sightseers, and boaters.
External links
★
official site National Park Service, Great Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge
★
GORP's guide to The Great Dismal Swamp
★
Defenders of Wildlife Organization - Great Dismal Swamp page
★
Bonny Blue Dismal Swamp Canal Trip
★
Elizabeth City Area Convention & Visitors Bureau