
Pink Lake at the end of October
'Gatineau Park' (
French: ''Parc de la Gatineau'') is a park near
Gatineau,
Québec,
Canada, just north of
Ottawa,
Ontario. Administered by the federal
National Capital Commission, the park forms a
363 km² triangle west of the
Gatineau River and includes parts of the City of
Gatineau, the Municipality of
Chelsea and the Municipality of La Pêche.
Although it was advocated by Dominion Parks Commissioner
James Harkin as the first national park to be created outside the Rocky Mountains, it remains the only federal park that is not a national park.
History

A road through the park

"La chute" trail through the park

Aerial Camp Adventures inside the park
The park area was originally settled by early immigrants to the area, who were soon discouraged by its thin soils. The government of Canada began acquiring land in the area for a park in the
1930s.
Created in
1938, Gatineau is the only federal park not protected by the National Parks Act, a situation largely attributable to former Prime Minister
William Lyon Mackenzie King's caution, fear of criticism and desire for privacy.
Gatineau Park was not only the first national park advocated for Quebec, it was also the first national park advocated for creation outside the
Rocky Mountains of the West, and the first national park advocated for creation by the first parks service in the world, the Dominion Parks Branch.
On
December 3,
1912, Dominion Parks Commissioner James Harkin wrote to Deputy Minister of the Interior William Cory, arguing for the creation of a nation-wide system of parks, the first of which was to be Gatineau Park. In his memo, Harkin said:
:"The East has no national parks like those in the Rockies, and it is proposed that the country develop a broader scheme of parks than exists in any other country[…] Bringing into effect the proposed Gatineau Park […] would, I think, most easily commence this scheme."
A few months later, on Cory’s suggestion, Harkin wrote Quebec Minister of Mines and Forests Charles Devlin inquiring whether he would help establish a national park in the Gatineau district. Although provincial officials wrote back that the matter would receive their minister’s immediate attention, Devlin died before he could follow up on Harkin’s request, and no further response was ever received.
And with the
1913 economic depression and
First World War intervening shortly thereafter, the
government of Canada had to tend to more pressing matters.
On
April 7,
1927, the national park idea was again raised in the
House of Commons, where MPs considered a bill to create the
Federal District Commission, which would build parks and parkways on both sides of the
Ottawa River. During debate, however, Conservative MP John Edwards accused Prime Minister King of wanting to create a park around his
Kingsmere property and ease access to it by building a parkway. Though he denied the charge, the criticism would shape King’s subsequent decisions regarding the park.
Eight years later, at the behest of Percy Sparks of the Federal Woodlands Preservation League, Minister of the Interior T.G. Murphy commissioned a survey to examine the effects of fires and excessive logging in the
Gatineau Hills. Among other recommendations, the survey proposed creating a national park. Two years later, however, King chose instead to solve the problem by gradual property acquisition, creating Gatineau Park in embryonic form on
July 1,
1938.
In his diary entry of
December 20,
1937, King explained the reasons behind his decision, writing that he would allow the park to be created, despite his aversion to tourists invading the
Meech and Kingsmere Lake areas, and his fear that he would be criticized for wanting to create a park around his country estate.
King’s self interest and fear of criticism greatly contributed to denying Gatineau Park status as a national park in the
1930s.
Several senior federal officials and journalists have recently claimed or suggested that the Quebec government is responsible for preventing Gatineau Park from becoming a national park, because it has historically refused to transfer its 17% “ownership” of the land to the federal government.
For instance, appearing before a Commons committee on
April 14,
2005,
Parks Canada CEO Alan Latourelle said that the preconditions to creating national parks include a federal-provincial agreement to do so, along with the province’s transferring to the federal government the surface and subsurface rights to the lands concerned. Referring specifically to Gatineau Park, he said that:
:"Part of the land is not federal. It is provincially owned – about 11% [sic] of it – and the subsurface rights are owned by the Province of Quebec. In this specific case, if it were to be considered for a national park, we would require the Government of Quebec’s support, and clearly historically we have not received that level of support anywhere in Quebec to create national parks. So it’s not an option we’re currently looking at."
However, by virtue of a
1973 agreement, the Quebec government transferred the control and management of 12,500 acres of provincial lands located inside Gatineau Park to the federal government – “in perpetuity” according to the two accompanying
Orders in Council. The province also transferred the control and management of the lake bottoms located in the park, committed itself not to issue mining exploration permits, stipulated that the lands it was transferring were to form part of Gatineau Park, and guaranteed that the rights it was transferring were free of all defects in title.
In such agreements, and those preceding creation of national parks, it is had been argued that it is not ownership that is being transferred, but rather the control and management of the land and resources. As the
Supreme Court has said, citing the principle of indivisibility of the Crown, and quoting legal scholar Paul Lordon, “Her Majesty is the owner of the property whether in right of Canada or the province and cannot grant to Herself. Only administrative control of the property passes. The transfer is, therefore, made by reciprocal
Orders in Council and is confirmed by statute where third party rights are involved.”
Moreover, Gatineau Park’s boundaries have changed a great deal in recent years. As a result of a boundary rationalization exercise conducted in the
1990s, the
National Capital Commission removed 48 properties totalling 1,508.4 acres from the park. With the 334.45 additional acres given up to road building within the same time frame – roads built in disregard of master plan commitments – the total number of acres removed from the park stands at 1,842 acres, or nearly three square miles (eight square kilometres).
In
2005, the Honourable
Ed Broadbent, MP for Ottawa-Centre, tabled a private member's bill in the
House of Commons that provides for legal boundaries and a land management mechanism for the park, similar to the protection provided by the
National Parks Act. And, in similar moves, the Honourable Mira Spivak of Manitoba tabled a bill in the Senate on
April 25,
2006 which would also grant legal status and protection to the park, while Paul Dewar, who replaced Ed Broadbent as MP for Ottawa-Centre in 2006, tabled similar legislation in the House of Commons in
May 2006.
Senator Spivak's Bill S-210 received second reading in the Senate on December 13, 2006. It was referred to the Energy, Environment and Natural Resources Committee, where it was studied on March 22, 27 and 29, and on June 5 and 7. It was reported back to the Senate on June 7.
Sites
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Biking along one of the many trails in Gatineau

Cross country ski trail in Gatineau
Gatineau Park includes a number of campgrounds and picnic areas. There are
165 km of
hiking trails and 90 km of trails for
mountain bikes and the
Trans Canada Trail passes through the park. The park is also popular with cyclists; note that most routes are quite steep and very demanding on legs, heart and lungs! There are
beaches at
Meech Lake,
Lac Philippe and
La Pêche Lake, which each offer camping facilities. These lakes also offer
canoeing; boats with gas motors are not allowed on most lakes in the park. Although the practise is not permitted in the park, some of the more secluded corners are popular with
nudists.
There is a tea room at Moorside, the former summer home of
William Lyon Mackenzie King, the tenth
Prime Minister of Canada, at Kingsmere. The estate also features gardens and the "ruins" collected by King in a woodland setting. A small waterfall runs down the escarpment near Moorside.
The Champlain lookout provides a spectacular view of the
Ottawa Valley from high atop the Eardley Escarpment. When the leaves change colour in fall, tourists and locals are drawn to the park's lookouts, roads and pathways to enjoy the autumn scenery.
All of the
Ottawa-Gatineau metropolitan area's television and radio stations broadcast from a transmitter site at
Camp Fortune just north of Kingsmere.
The park's location in the
Gatineau Hills makes it a popular destination for
cross-country skiing. There are almost 200 km of cross-country trails and the park plays host to the annual Keskinada Loppet competition. There is also a downhill skiing and
snowboarding area at
Camp Fortune.
Gatineau Park provides habitat for birds such as the
Pileated Woodpecker and
Common Loon.
Turkey Vultures and migrating hawks take advantage of the
thermals at the Eardley Escarpment. There are many
beavers and
white-tailed deer in the park, as well as some
black bears and a few
wolves in more remote sections.
Pink Lake is a
meromictic lake found in the park. Tiny
algae within the lake give it a bright green colour. The lake's name comes from the Pink family who originally owned property in the area.
King Mountain, the highest peak in Gatineau, rising an almost vertical 345 meters from the
Eardley Escarpement, was the first
triangulation point in Canada. Also, due to the mountain’s unique positioning, it presents a very interesting spectrum of vegetation, from dark
evergreen forest, to rich
deciduous forest in another area, and windswept
savanna in yet another area. The mountain is also home to a number of very rare species of trees for the area, including some which are almost 600 years old.
For many years a large red wooden cross was situated on top of King Mountain’s peak, looking out over the Ottawa River Valley, however the cross has fallen into disrepair and has been removed as a safety precaution.
King Mountain served as the main location for
Will Inrig’s feature-film “
Ivannikov and the Blessed Virgin Mary”, filmed in the Gatineau forest in
2006.
Mackenzie King donated his 600 acre property at Kingsmere to the people of Canada at his death in
1950. The Prime Minister of Canada's country retreat at
Harrington Lake, and
The Farm, the official residence of the
Speaker of the Canadian House of Commons, and
Prime Minister King's former residence, are located within the park.
External links
★
Official web site
★
Photography of the park
★
NCC Approved Gatineau Park Camping Webite