(Redirected from G. W. Young)'Geoffrey Winthrop Young'
D.Litt. (
1876 –
1958) was an
English climber and
author of several notable books on
mountaineering. He was also a
poet of some distinction and an educator that sought alternatives. He began rock climbing shortly before his first term at
Trinity College, Cambridge where he studied
Classics and won the ''Chancellor's Medal for English Verse'' two years in a row. While there, Young wrote a humorous campus climbing guide called "The Roof Climbers Guide to Trinity", a satirical parody of pompous early alpine guides.[1]
During the
Edwardian Period, and up until the breakout of hostilities heralding
World War I, Young made many new and difficult ascents in the
Alps, including noted routes on the Zermatt
Breithorn (the "Younggrat"), the west ridge of the
Gspaltenhorn, on the west face of the
Weisshorn, and a dangerous and rarely repeated route on the south face of the
Täschhorn. His finest rock climb was the Mer de Glace face of the
Grépon. In 1911 with H O Jones he ascended the Brouillard ridge of
Mont Blanc and made the first complete traverse of the west ridge of the
Grandes Jorasses, and the first decent of the ridge to the Col des Hirondelles. On most of his routes he climbed with the guide Joseph Knubel of
St Niklaus. Winthrop-Young also made impressive routes time and time again on local rocks in the
Lake District and
Wales. He was elected president of the
Climbers' Club in 1913, and he organized the
Pen-Y-Pass gatherings that propelled the advancement of rock climbing and included such technical luminaries as
J. M. Archer Thompson,
George Leigh Mallory,
Siegfried Herford and
Oscar Eckenstein. These parties, beginning in earnest about 1907, and sometimes reaching sixty men, women and children, flooded the hotel and overflowed into Eckenstein's miner's cabin and various tents. They came to an end in 1914.[2]
During the War, Young was, at first, a correspondent for the
liberal Daily News, but later was active as an officer of the FAU, the
Friends' Ambulance Unit. He received several decorations, but on August 31st of
1917 an explosion took one of his legs, and his service in the War was over.[3]
He continued to climb for a number of years with an artificial leg, ascending the
Matterhorn in
1928. To support himself and his family he worked for the
Rockefeller Foundation and spent much time in Germany, and – having met
Kurt Hahn before the War – helped Hahn immigrate to England in 1934. Much of what may be called an outdoor adventure education springs from this connection. The now famous Duke of Edinburgh Award scheme and the International Award scheme comes from this cooperation between Hahn and Young. The
Outward Bound movement, after World War II, owes a considerable debt to their friendship.[3]
During World War II, Young was president of the
Alpine Club, and it was through his untiring efforts that the
British Mountaineering Council, the umbrella organization for climbers in Great Britain, was created in
1945.[3]
References
:[1] Young, G. W. (ca 1898). "The Roof-Climbers' Guide to Trinity"
:[2] Hankinson, Alan (1977). "The Mountain Men", Heinemann
:[3] Hankinson, Alan (1995). "Geoffrey Winthrop Young", Hodder & Stoughton
Books by G. W. Young
★ "Mountain Craft" (1920)
★ "On High Hills" (1927)
★ "Mountains with a Difference" (1951)