:''This article is about the city Fes in Morocco. For other meanings please see
Fez. ''
'Fes' or 'Fez' (
Arabic فاس [Fās],
French Fès) is the third largest
city in
Morocco, after
Casablanca and
Rabat, with a population of 946,815 (
2004 census). It is the capital of the
Fès-Boulemane Region.
Fes is one of the four so-called "
imperial cities" (the others are
Marrakech,
Meknes and
Rabat). It is separated into three parts,
Fes el Bali (the old, walled city),
Fes-Jdid (new Fes, home of the
Mellah), and the Ville Nouvelle (the French-created, newest section of Fes). The Medina of Fes el Bali, the largest of the two
medinas of Fes, is believed to be the largest contiguous
car-free urban area in the world. Fes el Bali is classified as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.
History
The city was founded on opposite banks of the Fez River by
Idris I in
789[1] and his son
Idris II continued the work in
810.
[2] The first was the founder of the
Idrisid dynasty, his son was born after he was assassinated. During
Yahya ibn Muhammad's rule the Kairouyine
mosque, one of the oldest and largest in
Africa, was built, and the associated
University of Al-Karaouine was founded in
859.
[3] Arab emigration to Fes, mostly from
al-Andalus after a rebellion which took place in Cordoba in
818 and from Tunisia after another rebellion that took place in
824, gave the city a definite Arab character. 'Adwat al-Andalus and 'Adwat al-Qarawiyyin, the two main quarters of Fes, were called respectively after the two waves of Arab immigrants to the new city.
[4] After
Ali ibn Umar (Ali II) came to power, the tribes of Madyuna, Gayatha and Miknasa, which were
Sufrite Kharijites, formed a common front against the Idrisid and defeated Ali's armies and occupied Fes.
Yahya ibn Al-Qassim, drove the Sufrites out of the city and declared himself Ali's successor.
[5]
The city was populated by
Muslims from elsewhere in
North Africa, the
Middle East,
Moriscos, as well as many
Jews, who had
their own quarter, or
Mellah, in the city.
It is believed that Fes was the largest city in the world from 1170 to 1180.
[6] It was the center of the
Kingdom of Fez.
Fes became the scientific and religious center, where both Muslims and
Christians from
Europe came to study. Many
Muslim refugees came to Fes after the
reconquest of
Spain in
1492.
Fes became part of the Moroccan Empire in
1548.
In 1579 the capture of Fez completed Ottoman conquests in Morocco that had begun under Süleyman the Magnificent.
Fes became the center of the
Alaouite Dynasty in
1649, and it was a major trading post of the
Barbary Coast of North Africa. Until the
19th century it was the only source of
Fez hats (also known as the ''tarboosh''), before they began to be manufactured in
France and
Turkey; originally, the dye for the hats came from a berry that was grown outside the city, known as the Turkish kizziljiek or Greek akenia (Cornus mascula). Fes was also the end of a north-south
gold trading route from
Timbuktu.
Fez was a prime manufacturing location for leather goods such as the
Adarga.
Fes was the capital of Morocco at various times in the past, the last such period ending in
1912, when most of Morocco came under French control and Rabat was chosen to be the capital of the new colony, a distinction that city retained when Morocco achieved independence in
1956. While many of the original inhabitants of Fes have since emigrated, the
Jewish quarter has been emptied of its Jewish population ( In
1465, there was large massacre of Jews by Arab riots.
[7]), and the economy has stagnated, Fes is perhaps the most interesting and picturesque of the Imperial Cities of Morocco. Despite the traditional character of most of the city, there is also a modern section, the Ville Nouvelle, or "New City", which is a bustling commercial center. The popularity of the city has increased since the King of Morocco took a Fassi computer engineer,
Salma Bennani, as his wife.
Tourism
Fes is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination and many non-Moroccans are now restoring traditional houses (riads and dars) as second homes in the Fes medina.
Fes World Sacred Music Festival
In the city every year a week-long festival is held of sacred musical traditions from different parts of the world. Performers like Ravi Shankar, Youssou N'Dour and Salif Keita are juxtaposed with less known musical genres such as Japanese Gagaku, Indonesian Gamelan and folk music from Central Asia. The 2007 festival has a new Artistic Director Cherif Khaznadar bringing a new perspective to the programme. The festival was founded in 1994 by the Moroccan scholar and philanthropist Faouzi Skali. It includes a four-day Forum under the rubric "Giving Soul to Globalisation". Politicians, social activists, academics and religious leaders come together in dialogue. This Forum is sponsored by the World Bank.

Panoramic View of Fez
Transport
The city is served by
Saïss Airport.
==
Town twinning==
★
Montpellier,
France (
1961)
★
Strasbourg,
France (
1961)
★
Florence,
Italy (
1961)
★
Kairouan,
Tunisia (
1965)
★
Saint Louis,
Senegal (
1979)
★
Al-Quds,
Palestine (
1982)
[8]
★
Kraków,
Poland (
1985)
★
Coimbra,
Portugal
★
Bobo Dioulasso,
Burkina Faso (
2003)
★
Lahore,
Pakistan
★
Suwon,
South Korea (
2003)
Trivia
★ The city has been widely referenced in the
brazilian soap-opera ''
O Clone''.
★ The video clip
Mysterious Ways of
U2 was filmed in this city (October 1991, directed by
Stéphane Sednaoui). They are now recording for their new album in Fez (070531)
★ In the first season of
Gilmore Girls, Rory Gilmore was saving for a trip to Fes.
Footnotes
1. ''Jewish and Muslim Dialects of Moroccan Arabic'' By Jeffrey M Heath. p. 23.
2. Fes." Encyclopædia Britannica. 2007. Britannica Concise Encyclopedia. 3 Mar. 2007
3. Merriam Webster's Collegiate Encyclopedia. p.574.
4. ''A History of the Maghrib in the Islamic Period'' By Jamil Mir'i Abun-Nasr. p. 51.
5. ''A History of the Maghrib in the Islamic Period'' By Jamil Mir'i Abun-Nasr. p. 52.
6. Largest Cities Through History
7. Norman Stillman, The Jews of Arab Lands, 1979, pages 59, 284.
8. The twinning was signed with the Palestinian Authority between Fes and Al-Quds. Morocco does not officially recognize Israel.
See also
★
Treaty of Fez
★ Book by Roger Le Tourneau (English translation by Besse Clement), ''Fez in the Age of the Marinides'', Oklahoma University, editions 1961 and 1974 (latter ISBN 0806111984).
External links
★
★ [http://www.fes-city.com/ The portal of fès
★ [http://www.paulbowles.org/fezbowles.html/ A Paul Bowles travel article describing Fez
★
The Medina of Fes-al-Bali
★
The Jewish Community of Fez
★
Entry in Lexicorient
★
Fes Festival Of World Sacred Music
★
Photo tour of Fes-al-Bali
★
In Search of the Sacred at the Fez Festival, Part 1 An in depth review of the Fez Festival Of World Sacred Music.
★
In Search of the Sacred at the Fez Festival, Part 2