'Ellesmere Island' (
French: ''Île d'Ellesmere'') is part of the
Qikiqtaaluk Region of the
Canadian territory of
Nunavut. Lying within the
Canadian Arctic Archipelago it is considered part of the
Queen Elizabeth Islands, with
Cape Columbia being the most northerly point of land in Canada. It comprises an area of
196,235 square kilometres (75,767 sq mi), making it the
world's tenth largest island and
Canada's third largest island.
History of Ellesmere Island
The first inhabitants of Ellesmere Island were small bands of
Inuit drawn to the area for
Peary Caribou,
muskox, and
marine mammal hunting about 1000-2000 BC.
[1]
As was the case for the
Dorset (or Palaeoeskimo) hunters and the pioneering Neoeskimos, the Post-Ruin Island and
Late Thule culture Inuit used the
Bache Peninsula region extensively both summer and winter until environmental, ecological and possibly social circumstances caused the area to be abandoned. It was the last region in the Canadian High Arctic to be depopulated during the "
Little Ice Age," attesting to its general economic importance as part of the Smith Sound culture sphere of which it was occasionally a part and sometimes the principal settlement component.
[2]
Vikings, likely from the
Greenland colonies, reached Ellesmere Island,
Skraeling Island and Ruin Island during hunting expeditions and trading with the Inuit groups.
[3] Unusual structures on Bache peninsula may be the remains of a late-period Dorset stone longhouse.
[4]
The first European to sight the island after the "
Little Ice Age" was
William Baffin, in
1616. Ellesmere Island was named in
1852 by
Edward Inglefield's expedition after
Francis Egerton, 1st Earl of Ellesmere.
["Ellesmere Island" from "The Canadian Encyclopedia Online". URL accessed April 7, 2006.] The
American expedition led by
Adolphus Greely in 1881 crossed the island from east to west.
[5] The Greely expedition found fossil forests on Ellesmere Island in the late 1880s. Stenkul Fiord was first explored in 1902 by Per Schei, a member of
Otto Sverdrup's 2nd Norwegian Polar Expedition.
The Ellesmere ice shelf was documented by the
British Arctic Expedition of 1875-76, in which Lieutenant
Pelham Aldrich's party went from
Cape Sheridan (82.47°N, 61.50°W) west to
Cape Alert (82.27°N, 85.55°W), including the
Ward Hunt Ice Shelf. In 1906
Robert E. Peary led an expedition in northern Ellesmere Island, from Cape Sheridan along the coast to the western side of
Nansen Sound (93°W). During Peary's expedition, the Ice Shelf was continuous; a modern estimate is that it covered 8,900 km² (3,400 sq mi).
[6]
Geography

Satellite image montage showing Ellesmere Island and its neighbours

A satellite image of the northern segment of Ellesmere Island,
Nunavut.
Greenland is to the east.
Protected areas
More than one-fifth of the island is protected as
Quttinirpaaq National Park (formerly Ellesmere Island National Park), which includes seven
fjords and a variety of
glaciers, as well as
Lake Hazen, the world's largest lake north of the
Arctic Circle.
Barbeau Peak, the highest mountain in Nunavut (2,616 m, 8,593 ft) is located in the
British Empire Range on Ellesmere Island. The most northern
mountain range in the world, the
United States Range is located in the northeast region of the island. The northern lobe of the island is called
Grant Land.
In July 2007, a study noted the disappearance of habitat for waterfowl, invertebrates, and algae on Ellesmere Island. According to John P. Smol of
Queens University in
Kingston, Ontario, and Marianne S. V. Douglas of the
University of Alberta in Edmonton, warming conditions and evaporation have caused low water levels changes in the chemistry of ponds and wetlands in the area. The researchers noted that "In the 1980s they often needed to wear hip waders to make their way to the ponds...while by 2006 the same areas were dry enough to burn.
[Northern Canada Ponds Drying Up]
Glaciers and ice caps
Large portions of Ellesmere Island are covered with glaciers and ice, with Manson Icefield and Sydkap in the south; Prince of Wales Icefield and Agassiz Ice Cap along the central-east side of the island, along with substantial ice cover in Northern Ellesmere Island. The northwest coast of Ellesmere Island was covered by a massive, 500 km (300 mi) long ice shelf until the twentieth century. The Ellesmere ice shelf reduced by 90 percent in the twentieth century due to
global warming, leaving the separate Alfred Ernest, Ayles, Milne, Ward Hunt, and Markham Ice Shelves.
[7] A 1986 survey of Canadian ice shelves found that (3.3 km³, 0.8 cu mi) of ice calved from the
Milne and
Ayles ice shelves between 1959 and 1974.
[6] The Ward Hunt Ice Shelf, the largest remaining section of thick (>10 m, >30 ft) landfast sea ice along the northern coastline of Ellesmere Island, lost 600 km (370 mi) of ice in a massive calving in 1961-1962.
[9] It further decreased by 27% in thickness (13 m, 43 ft) between 1967 and 1999.
[10]
The breakup of the Ellesmere ice shelves has continued in the twenty-first century: the Ward Ice Shelf experienced a major breakup during summer 2002;
[11] the
Ayles Ice Shelf calved entirely on August 13, 2005; the largest breakoff of the ice shelf in 25 years, it may pose a threat to the oil industry in the
Beaufort Sea. The piece is .
[12]
Paleontology
Schei and later
Nathorst [13] described the
Paleocene-
Eocene (ca. 55 Ma)
fossil forest in the Stenkul Fiord sediments. The Stenkul Fiord site represents a series of
deltaic swamp and
floodplain forests
[14]. The trees stood for at least 400 years. Individual stumps and stems of >1 m (>3 ft) diameter were abundant. Abundance of
Metasequoia and possibly
Glyptostrobus trees.
[1]
In 2006,
University of Chicago paleontologist Neil H. Shubin reported the discovery of the fossil of a
Paleozoic (ca. 375 Ma) fish, named ''
Tiktaalik roseae'', in the former
stream beds of Ellesmere Island. The fossil exhibits many characteristics of fish, but also indicates a
transitional creature that may be a predecessor of
amphibians,
reptiles and
dinosaurs.
[15]
Population
In
2001, the population of Ellesmere Island was recorded as 168. There are three settlements on Ellesmere Island including
Alert,
Eureka, and
Grise Fiord. Politically, it is part of the
Qikiqtaaluk Region.
Canadian Forces Station (CFS) Alert is the
northernmost settlement in the world. With the end of the
Cold War and the advent of new technologies allowing for remote interpretation of data, the overwintering population has been reduced to 50.
Eureka, which is the second northernmost settlement in the world, consists of three areas, the "airport" which includes "Fort Eureka" (the quarters for military personnel maintaining the island's communications equipment), the
Environment Canada Weather Station and the Polar Environmental Atmospheric Research Laboratory (PEARL), formally the Arctic Stratospheric Ozone (AStrO) Observatory.
See also
★
Ellesmere Island Volcanics
★
Lomonosov Ridge
References
1. Arctic History Civilization.ca
2. Late Thule culture developments on the central east coast of Ellesmere Island. Schledermann, P. McCullough, K.M. Copenhagen, Denmark : Danish Polar Center, 2003.
3. Inuit-Norse contact in the Smith Sound region / Schledermann, P. McCullough, K.M.
4. Peter Schlederman, " Eskimo and Viking Finds in the High Arctic ", National Geographic Magazine, Vol. 159, No. 5, May 1981:584
5. Muskox Land: Ellesmere Island in the age of contact, Dick, Lyle, , , University of Calgary Press, ,
6. Jeffries, Martin O. Ice Island Calvings and Ice Shelf Changes, Milne Ice Shelf and Ayles Ice Shelf, Ellesmere Island, N.W.T.. ''Arctic'' 39 (1) (March 1986)
7. "Arctic Ice Shelf Broke Off Canadian Island" ''New York Times'' 30 December 2006
8. Jeffries, Martin O. Ice Island Calvings and Ice Shelf Changes, Milne Ice Shelf and Ayles Ice Shelf, Ellesmere Island, N.W.T.. ''Arctic'' 39 (1) (March 1986)
9. Hattersley-Smith, G. The Ward Hunt Ice Shelf: recent changes of the ice front. ''Journal of Glaciology'' 4:415-424. 1963.
10. Vincent, W.F., J.A.E. Gibson, M.O. Jeffries. Ice-shelf collapse, climate change, and habitat loss in the Canadian high Arctic. ''Polar Record'' 37 (201): 133-142 (2001)
11. Breakup of the Ward Hunt Ice Shelf NASA Earth Observatory
12. BBC News - Huge Arctic ice break discovered
13. Nathorst, A. G. 1915. Tertiare Pflanzenreste Aus Ellesmere-Land. Report of the Second Norwegian Arctic Expedition in the Fram, 1898-1902. The Society of Arts and Sciences of Kristiania. No. 35.
14. Kalkreuth, W.D., C.L. Riediger, D.J. McIntyre, R.J.H. Richardson, M.G. Fowler & D. Marchioni. 1996. Petrological, palynological and geochemical characteristics of Eureka Sound Group coals (Stenkul Fiord, southern Ellesmere Island, Arctic Canada). Int. J. Coal Sci. 30: 151-182.
15. Fossil Called Missing Link From Sea to Land Animals
External links
★
Mountains on Ellesmere Island