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:: ''For other uses see Dressmaker (disambiguation)''
A 'dressmaker' is a person who makes custom clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Also called a 'mantua-maker' (historically) or a 'modiste'.

Contents

History of dressmaking

See also

Related terms

References

History of dressmaking

The Oxford English Dictionary first records ''dressmaker'' in 1803. Throughout the nineteenth century and until the rise of ready-to-wear, most women who did not make their own clothes at home employed a local dressmaker, who copied or adapted the latest clothing ideas from Paris based on printed illustrations called fashion plates.
Today, custom dressmakers fill a niche between haute couture and ready-to-wear, and are often employed for one-of-a-kind special occasion dresses, such as wedding gowns and prom dresses.

See also

★ Fashion design

★ Fashion designer

★ Tailor

★ Seamstress

Related terms

★ ''Dressmaker'' as an adjective denotes clothing made in the style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term ''dressmaker details'' which includes ruffles, frills, ribbon or braid trim. ''Dressmaker'' in this sense is contrasted to ''tailored'' and has fallen out of use since the rise of casual wear in the mid-twentieth century.

★ 'Mantua-maker', in the eighteenth century a maker of mantuas, or in general a dressmaker.

★ 'Modiste', a maker of fashionable clothing and accessories, with the implication that the articles made reflect the current Paris modes.

★ 'Sewing Professional' is the most general term for those who make their living by sewing, teaching, writing about sewing, or retailing sewing supplies. She or he may work out of her home, a studio, or retail shop, and may work part-time or full-time. She or he may be any or all or the following sub-specialities:

★ 'A Custom Clothier' makes custom garments one at a time, to order, to meet an individual customer's needs and preferences.

★ 'A Custom Dressmaker' specializes in women's custom apparel, including day dresses, careerwear, suits, evening or bridal wear, sportswear, or lingerie.

★ 'A Tailor' makes custom menswear-style jackets and the skirts or trousers that go with them, for men or women.

★ 'An Alterations Specialist, or Alterationist' adjusts the fit of completed garments, usually ready-to-wear, or restyles them. Note that while all tailors can do alterations, by no means can all alterationists do tailoring.

★ 'Designers' think up combinations of line, proportion, color, and texture for intended garments. They may have no sewing or patternmaking skills whatsoever, and may only sketch or conceptualize garments.

★ 'Patternmakers' flat draft the shapes and sizes of the numerous pieces of a garment by hand using paper and measuring tools or by computer using AutoCAD based software, or by draping muslin on a dressform. The resulting pattern pieces must comprise the intended design of the garment and they must fit the intended wearer.

★ 'A Wardrobe Consultant or Fashion Advisor' recommends styles and colors that are flattering for a client.

★ 'A Seamstress' is someone who sews seams, or in other words, a machine operator in a factory who may not have the skills to make garments from scratch or to fit them on a real body. This term is not a synonym for ''dressmaker''. ''Seamstress'' is an old euphemism for prostitute. At the turn of the last century in Seattle, for example, 80% of the city's revenues came from taxes on sewing machines, which were placed in windows instead of red lights. No doubt respectable dressmakers and tailors had to sew in the dark.

References

Deckert, Barbara: ''Sewing for Plus Sizes: Design, Fit and Construction for Ample Apparel'', Taunton, 1999, ''Appendix B: How to Find, Select, and Work With a Custom Clothier'', pp. 142-143.
Picken, Mary Brooks: ''The FashionDictionary'', Funk and Wagnalls, 1957.