'Drag' in its broadest sense means a
costume or outfit that carries symbolic significance, but usually refers to the clothing associated with one
gender role when worn by a person of the other gender. Wearers of drag in this sense are divided into
drag kings and
drag queens, depending on the gender of the clothing adopted. The term originated either in gay or theater slang in the 1870s, where the official long-established theater term for "
cross-dressing" on-stage was ''travesti'' (French, "cross-dressed," giving rise to "travesty" which took on further connotations as a genre of critical vocabulary). The term "drag" may have been given a wider circulation in
Polari, a gay street argot in England in the early part of the
20th century. Unlike "threads," "drag" never simply meant "clothes."
"
Drag queen" appeared in print in
1941. The verb form is to "'do drag'." A
folk etymology whose
acronym basis reveals a characteristically late 20th-century bias, would make "drag" an abbreviation of "dressed as girl" in description of male
transvestism; the converse, "drab" for "dressed as boy," is unrecorded. Drag is practiced by people of all
sexual orientations and
gender identities.
Drag in the performing arts
"Drag" is too casual and culturally freighted a term to be used for the cross-dressing elements in
shamanism, but there is a long history of drag in the performing arts, spanning a wide range of cultural as well as artistic traditions.
Drag in the theater arts manifests two kinds of phenomenon. One is cross-dressing in the performance, which is part of the
social history of theater. The other is cross-dressing ''within'' the theatrical fiction (i.e. the character is a cross-dresser), which is part of literary history.
Drag is usually played for comic effect. Whether the
Monty Python Women or as a character such as Joe and Jerry (Curtis and Lemmon) in
Some Like It Hot.
Theatre
Cross-dressing elements of performance traditions are widespread cultural phenomena.
Kabuki, the traditional theatre of Japan, has always featured drag. Originally kabuki troupes were all female; now they are all male, and female roles are played by ''Onnagata'', actors who specialize in playing female roles. Conversely, the
Takarazuka Revue is a popular all-female troupe that specializes in putting on romantic plays. All the male roles are played by young women.
Earlier, in England,
actors in
Shakespearean
plays, and indeed in all Elizabethan theater, tragedy as well as comedy, were all male; female parts were played by young men in drag. Shakespeare used the conventions to enrich the gender confusions of ''
As You Like It,'' and
Ben Jonson manipulated the same conventions in ''Epicoene, or The Silent Woman,'' (1609) an elaborate vindictive and misogynist sight gag that builds up to the Wedding from Hell. The plot device of the film ''
Shakespeare in Love'' (1998) turns upon this Elizabethan convention. By the reign of Charles I, actresses were allowed on the London stage in the French fashion, and serious ''travesti'' roles disappeared.
Within the dramatic fiction a
double standard historically affected the uses of drag. In overwhelmingly male-dominated societies, where active roles were reserved to men, a woman might dress as a man under the pressures of her dramatic predicament. Since a man's position was above a woman's, this resulted in a rising action that suited itself to tragedy and sentimental melodrama as well as comedies of manners that involved confused identities. Conversely, when a man dressed as a woman, the action was inherently conceived as a falling action: the result could only be suited to broad low comedy and burlesque. These conventions were unbroken before the 20th century, when such rigid gender roles were first undermined and then began to dissolve. This evolving process has transformed drag in the last decades of the 20th century, and is still unfolding. With the theatrical drag queen presented, not as a "
female impersonator" but ''as'' a drag queen (as, for example,
RuPaul), modern drag has transformed its conventions, its meaning, and its audience.
Opera
In Baroque opera, where soprano roles for men were sung by
castrati,
Handel's heroine Bradamante, in the opera
Alcina, disguises herself as a man to save her lover, played by a male soprano: contemporary audiences were not the least confused. In Romantic
opera, certain roles of young boys were written for alto and soprano voices and acted by women ''en travestie'' (in English, in "trouser roles")
[1]. The most familiar trouser role in pre-Romantic opera is Cherubino in
Mozart's ''
Marriage of Figaro'' (1786). Romantic opera continued the convention: there are trouser roles for women in drag in Rossini's ''Semiramide'' (Arsace), Donizetti's ''Rosamonda d'Inghilterra'' and ''Anna Bolena'',
Berlioz's ''Benvenuto Cellini'', even a page in Verdi's ''Don Carlo''. The convention was beginning to die out with Siebel, the ingenuous youth in
Charles Gounod's ''Faust'' (1859) and the gypsy boy Beppe in Mascagni's ''L'Amico Fritz'', so that Offenbach gave the role of Cupid to a real boy in ''Orphée aux Enfers''. But the divine
Sarah Bernhardt played Hamlet in tights, giving French audiences a glimpse of Leg (the other in fact being a prosthesis) and Prince Orlovsky, who gives the ball in ''
Die Fledermaus'', is a soprano, to somewhat androgynous effect. The use of ''travesti'' in
Richard Strauss's ''Rosenkavalier'' (1912) is a special case, unusually subtle and evocative of its 18th century setting, and should be discussed in detail at ''
Der Rosenkavalier''.
Film and television
The self-consciously risqué bourgeois high jinks of Brandon Thomas' ''
Charley's Aunt'' (London, 1892) were still viable theater material in ''
La Cage aux Folles'' 1978, (remade, as ''
The Birdcage,'' as late as 1996). In the 1890s the slapstick drag traditions of undergraduate productions (notably
Hasty Pudding Theatricals at
Harvard College, annually since 1891 and at other
Ivy League schools like
Princeton University's
Triangle Club or the
University of Pennsylvania's
Mask and Wig Club) were permissible fare to the same middle-class American audiences that were scandalized to hear that in
New York, rouged young men in skirts were standing on tables to dance the
Can-Can in
Bowery dives like
The Slide. Drag shows were popular night club entertainment in New York in the 20s, then were forced underground, until the "Jewel Box Revue" played Harlem's Apollo Theater in the 1950s: "49 men and a girl." The girl received a roar of applause, when she was revealed as the same smart young man in dinner clothes who had been introducing each of the evening's acts. Drag as a last-resort tactic in situational farce (its only permissible format at the time) made a big Hollywood splash in ''
Some Like It Hot'' (1959).
For the San Francisco drag troupe,
The Cockettes (1970-72), who performed with glitter eyeshadow and gilded mustaches and beards, the term "
genderfuck" was coined. Drag broke out from underground theater in the persona of "
Divine" in
John Waters' ''
Pink Flamingos'' (1972): see also
Charles Pierce. The crowd surrounding
Andy Warhol's
Factory scene of the '60s-'80s also included some drag queens who achieved a certain amount of fame, such as
Candy Darling and
Holly Woodlawn, both immortalized in the
Lou Reed song,
Walk on the Wild Side. The
cult hit movie musical
The Rocky Horror Picture Show has inspired several generations of young people to attend performances in drag, although many of these fans would deny that they are actually transvestites.
Remaining in the demi-monde is the sub-culture of transvestite prostitutes who turn tricks as "chicks with dicks." In
an episode of "Sex and the City" (15 October 2000) Samantha had a run-in with raucous, fearless and challenging transvestite hookers in the meatmarket district.
On American
network television, only the broadest slapstick drag tradition was generally represented. Few American TV comedians consistently used drag as a comedy device, among them
Milton Berle,
Flip Wilson and
Martin Lawrence, although drag characters have occasionally been popular on sketch TV shows like
In Living Color (with
Jim Carrey's grotesque female bodybuilder] and
Saturday Night Live (with the
Gap Girls, among others). The popular Canadian comedy group
The Kids in the Hall also used drag in many of their skits.
Dame Edna, the drag persona of Australian actor
Barry Humphries, is the host of several specials, including the ''Dame Edna Experience''. Dame Edna also tours internationally, playing to sell-out crowds, and has appeared on TV's
Ally McBeal.
Dame Edna, however, represents an anomalous example of the drag concept. Although her earliest incarnation was unmistakably a man dressed (badly) as a suburban housewife, over the years Edna's manner and appearance has been so greatly feminised and glamorised that even some of her TV show guests appear not realise that the Edna character is actually played by a man. The furor surrounding Dame Edna's 'advice' column in ''
Vanity Fair'' magazine also suggests that one of her harshest critics, actress
Salma Hayek, was apparently unaware that Dame Edna was actually a female character played by a man.
In
England drag has been much more common in comedy:
Benny Hill portrayed several female characters, and the
Monty Python troupe and
The League of Gentlemen often played female parts in their skits.
Alastair Sim plays the head mistress in
St Trinian's.
These characters are played straight(ish). Within the conceit of the sketch/film they are women, it is we that are in on the joke. Monty Python women are random middle aged working/lower middle class typically wearing long brown coats that were common in the 1960s. When the Pythons wanted a "proper" woman they used
Carol Cleveland/
Carol Cleavage. They speak with falsetto voices.
The joke is reversed in
Life of Brian where "they" are pretending to be men, including obviously false beards, so that they can go to the stoning. When someone throws the first stone too early the
Pharisee asks "who threw that", and they answer "she did, she did,..." in high voices. "Are there any women here today?" he says, "No no no" they say in gruff voices.
Alastair Sim plays the head mistress straight in
St Trinian's. No direct joke to the actor's true gender is made. However she is quite non-feminine in her persuits of betting, drinking and smoking. Her school sends out girls into a merciless world where it is the world that need beware.
Kenny Everett dragged up in his TV show as an
OTT screen star. Kenny was particularly unconvincing as a woman because he had a beard to which a lot of flesh-tone makeup was applied. However she says "all in the best possible taste" as she exposed her knickers as she re-crossed her legs. She is in more of the Dame Edna genre.
Music
The world of
popular music has a venerable history of drag.
Marlene Dietrich was a popular actress and singer who sometimes performed dressed as a man, such as in the films ''
Blue Angel'' and ''
Morocco''. In the
glam rock era many male performers (such as
David Bowie and
The New York Dolls) donned partial or full drag. This tradition waned somewhat in the late '70s but was revived in the
New Wave era of the '80s, as pop singers
Boy George (of
Culture Club) and
Pete Burns (of
Dead or Alive) frequently appeared in a sort of semi-drag, while female musicians of the era dabbled in their own form of
androgyny, with performers like
Annie Lennox, Phranc and The Bloods sometimes performing as drag kings. The male
grunge musicians of the '90s sometimes performed wearing deliberately ugly drag - that is, wearing dresses but making no attempt to look feminine, not wearing makeup and often not even shaving their beards. (
Nirvana did this several times, notably in the
In Bloom video.) In Japan there are several popular singers (such as Mana of
Visual Kei bands "
Moi Dix Mois" and "
Malice Mizer) who always or usually appear in full or semi-drag.
Also UK Punk band, called "DRAG", who use their songs to tackle gender, sex, and self-harm issues
[2]
Drag kings and queens
In gay slang, a "queen" is an effeminate gay man, or a gay man with a specializied quality (e.g. "rice queen," for a gay man who prefers Asian men). Along with "drag," the term "drag queen" has entered the general lexicon.
'
Drag queens' (first use in print, 1941) are stereotypically viewed to be
gay men that dress in drag, either as part of a performance or for personal fulfillment. Though some who wear women's clothing are straight men, the term drag queen distinguishes them from
transvestites,
transsexuals or
transgender people. Doing drag here often includes wearing makeup, wigs and prosthetic devices as part of the costume.
Females (many of whom do not identify as women) are called '
drag kings'; however, ''drag king'' also has a much wider range of meanings. It is currently most often used to describe entertainment (singing or lip-synching) in which there is no necessarily firm correlation between a performer's deliberately-macho onstage persona and offstage gender identity or sexual orientation, just as biological males who do female drag for the stage may or may not identify as being either gay or female in personal identity.
See also
★
List of transgender-related topics