'Dr. Martens' is a
footwear brand, and the products are often known as 'Doc Martens', 'Docs' or 'DMs'.
The brand is distinct for its air-cushioned
sole (dubbed ''Bouncing Soles''), developed by Dr. Klaus Maertens of
Germany. The boots have been especially popular among
skinheads, and
punks and other youth
subcultures.
Origin

Pair of classic black leather Dr. Martens boots, with distinctive yellow stitching around sole.
Klaus Maertens was a doctor in the
German army during
World War II. While on leave in 1945, he injured his ankle while
skiing in the
Bavarian Alps. He found that his standard-issue army boots were too uncomfortable on the injured foot. While recuperating, he designed improvements to the boots, with soft
leather, and air-padded soles. When the war ended and some Germans looted valuables from their own cities, Maertens took leather from a
cobbler's shop. With that leather he made himself a pair of boots with the now-famous air-cushioned soles.
Maertens didn't have much luck selling his shoes until he met up with an old university friend, Dr. Herbert Funck, in
Munich in 1947. Funck was intrigued by the new shoe design, and the two went into business that year in Seeshaupt, Germany, using discarded
rubber from
Luftwaffe airfields. The comfortable and durable soles were a big hit with housewives; 80 percent of sales in the first decade were to women over the age of 40.
Sales had grown so much by 1952 that they opened a factory in Munich. In 1959, the company had grown large enough that Maertens and Funck looked at marketing the footwear internationally. Almost immediately,
British shoe manufacturer R. Griggs Group Ltd. bought
patent rights to manufacture the shoes in the United Kingdom. Griggs
anglicised the name, slightly re-shaped the heel to make them fit better, added the trademark yellow stitching, and trademarked the soles as AirWair.
Popularity in United Kingdom

Skinhead style: DM boots with Levi's jeans
The first Dr. Martens in the
United Kingdom came out on April 1, 1960, with an 8-
eyelet, cherry-red, Nappa leather design. They were popular among workers such as
postmen,
policemen and factory laborers. By the late 1960s,
skinheads started wearing Dr. Martens boots, and street
gangs made the oxblood-red boots a trademark style. Of particular interest is the practice of polishing the red boots with black polish, resulting in a marbled look.
By the mid 1970s, Dr. Martens boots were popular among some British
punk rock and
New Wave musicians, and soon many punk fans were wearing them. The boots and shoes then became much more popular among some parts of youth
subculture. Dr. Martens have been the subject of a song by
Alexei Sayle (featuring on ''
The Young Ones'' episode "Oil" with the band "Radical Posture") and have appeared on the cover art for a
Madness box set ''
The Business''.
Later developments
In the 2000s, Dr. Martens became sold exclusively under the AirWair name, and come in dozens of different styles, including conventional black shoes, sandals and steel-toed boots. On April 1, 2003, under pressure from declining sales, the Dr. Martens company ceased all production in the United Kingdom. Since then, Dr. Martens production moved to
China and
Thailand. With this change also came the end of the company's
vegetarian-friendly non-leather products (which were produced since January, 2000). The Vegetarian Shoes company has an Airseal line, which includes non-leather footwear similar to Dr. Martens products. Meanwhile, many punks and skinheads have turned to competing manufacturers' boots such as
Grinders, Gripfast, and Rangers.
External links
★
Official Dr. Martens site
★
Official Dr. Martens U.S.Retailer
★
Dr. Martens FREEDM2 networking site for artists, musicians, film makers...