
Cook Inlet, showing Knik and Turnagain Arms
The 'Cook Inlet' or 'Nuti' is a large
estuary stretching 180 miles from the
Gulf of Alaska to
Anchorage in south-central
Alaska.
[1] It separates the
Kenai Peninsula from
mainland Alaska and branches into the 'Knik Arm' and 'Turnagain Arm' at its northern end, almost surrounding Anchorage.
The
watershed covers about 100,000 km² of southern Alaska, east of the
Aleutian Range and south of the
Alaska Range, receiving water from its
tributaries the Knik River, the Little Susitna River, and the
Susitna and
Matanuska rivers. The watershed includes the drainage areas of
Mount McKinley. Within the watershed there are several
national parks and four historically active
volcanoes.
[2] Cook Inlet provides navigable access to the
port of Anchorage at the northern end, and to the smaller
Homer port further south. Approximately 400,000 people live within the Cook Inlet watershed. Before the growth of Anchorage, Knik was the destination for most marine traffic in upper cook inlet.
Geography
Cook Inlet contains active volcanoes, including
Augustine Volcano. Volcano
eruption has been associated with
earthquakes and
tsunamis, and debris
avalanches have resulted in tsunamis also.
[3] There was an earthquake of the magnitude of 7.1 on December 31, 1901 generated by an eruption that causes several tsunamis.
[4]
History

Turnagain Arm in the distance
The inlet was first explored by
Europeans in
1778 when
James Cook sailed into it while searching for the
Northwest Passage. It was named after Cook in
1794 by
George Vancouver, who had served under Cook in 1778. Turnagain Arm was named by
William Bligh of
HMS Bounty fame. Bligh served as Cook's Sailing Master on his 3rd and final voyage, with the aim to discover the
Northwest Passage.
Upon reaching the head of Cook Inlet, Bligh was of the opinion that both Knik Arm and Turnagain Arm were the mouths of rivers and not the opening to the Northwest Passage. Under Cook's orders Bligh organized a party to travel up Knik Arm, which quickly returned to report Knik Arm indeed lead only to a river.
Afterwards a second party was dispatched up Turnagain Arm and it too returned to report only a river lay ahead. As a result of this frustration the second body of water was given the disingenuous name "Turn Again". Early maps label Turnagain Arm as the "Turnagain River".
Communities
Most of Alaska's population surrounds Cook Inlet, concentrated in the
Anchorage, Alaska area and in communities on the
Kenai Peninsula. The more remote west side of the inlet is not connected to the road system, and is home to the village of
Tyonek, Alaska, and a number of oil camps.
Resources
The Cook Inlet basin contains large oil and gas deposits including several offshore fields.
[5] As of 2005 there were 16 platforms in Cook Inlet, the oldest of which is the ''XTO A'' platform first installed by Shell in 1964, and newest of which is the ''Osprey'' platform installed by Forest Oil in 2000. Most of the platforms are operated by Union Oil which was acquired by Chevron in 2005. There are also numerous oil and gas pipelines running around and under the Cook Inlet. The main destinations of the gas pipelines are to Kenai where the gas is primarily used to fuel commercial fertilizer production and a liquified natural gas (LNG) plant and to Anchorage where the gas is consumed largely for domestic uses.
[6]
Alaska has approximately half the known coal reserves in the U.S. As of 2007, there is a proposal to build a large coal mine (the Chuitna Coal Mine) on the west side of Cook Inlet near the
Chuitna River, and the town of
Tyonek, Alaska.
American Rivers has placed the
Chuitna River on its list of the 10 most endangered rivers for 2007, based on the threat of this mine.
[7]
Turnagain Arm is one of only about 60 bodies of water worldwide to exhibit a
tidal bore. The bore may be more than six feet high and travel at 15 miles per hour on high
spring tides. On a typical day, Turnagain Arm sees
tides of more than 30 feet, second in North America to
Canada's
Bay of Fundy. The ocean's natural 12-hour 25-minute tidal cycle is close to Turnagain Arm's natural resonant frequency, which then reinforces the tide similar to water sloshing in a bathtub. Tidal fluctuations in the main body of Cook Inlet, while not as extreme as the shallow and narrow Turnagain Arm, regularly reach 25 feet and exhibit currents in excess of 5 knots at full tidal flow. The inlet and its arms have been proposed as a potentially attractive site for the generation of
tidal power.
Turnagain Arm and Knik Arm are known for their abundance of
silt. At low tide, much of the arms' silty bottoms are exposed, making marine navigation difficult. Historically ships and boats designed for the area had a relatively flat bottom with a modest centerboard and absence of a large keel because the boats would occasionally become beached at low tide either on purpose or by accident. This design allowed the craft to support its weight on land withoout sustaining any serious damage to its structure. An example of this design is the Nomad, a much photographed fishing boat once owned by Joe Reddington which has sat on a mudflat near Knik for several decades.
These
mudflats are also dangerous to walk on, exhibiting
quicksand-like characteristics, and have claimed the limbs and lives of several beach explorers who have wandered out on them. For this reason
cruise ships dock at
Seward or
Whittier in
Prince William Sound and transport passengers via bus or train to Anchorage. However, over 95% of freight entering Alaska comes through the
Port of Anchorage, which is served by major
container ship companies and other carriers.
Conservation

View across Cook Inlet at low tide from downtown
Anchorage,
Alaska (September 2005).

Sunset view of Cook Inlet and Ship Creek Delta, Susitna in background. Photo by Mikhail Siskoff
The Cook inlet
Beluga whale is a genetically distinct and geographically isolated stock.
[8] The population has fallen to around 400 due to hunting by Alaska Natives, though a recent article in the Anchorage Daily News questioned this conclusion.
[1]
Cook Inlet activities include commercial fishing, oil and gas development, municipal discharges, noise from aircraft and ships, shipping traffic, and tourism. However, it is not known what impact these activities had on the beluga whale population.
In 2000, the US National Marine Fisheries Service listed the Cook Inlet beluga whale population as depleted and began development of a conservation plan.
[2]
The Coastal Marine Institute at the University of Alaska Fairbanks's School of Fisheries and Ocean Sciences working with the U.S. Department of the Interior's Minerals Management Service (MMS), began a three year project in 2003 focusing on the water circulation in Cook Inlet.
[9]
See also
★
Augustine Volcano
Notes
1. Cook Inlet, Alaska
2. Cook Inlet-South Central Alaska map and volcano list
3. Augustine, Cook Inlet, Alaska
4. Historic Earthquakes - Cook Inlet, Alaska
5. Cook Inlet Oil and Gas
6. Kenai, Alaska plant
7. Chuitna Coal Mine
8. Management and Recovery of Cook Inlet Beluga Whales
9. Water and Ice Dynamics in Cook Inlet, Alaska
External links
★
Cook Inlet Keeper advocacy group
★
Anchorage and Cook Inlet, Alaska - NASA
★
List of Alaska volcanoes by region
★
Cook Inlet, Alaska
★
Notice of sale : Cook Inlet areawide 2007, competitive oil and gas lease sale / State of Alaska, Department of Natural Resources, Division of Oil & Gas. Hosted by the
Alaska State Publications Program
★
System level design, performance, cost and economic assessment : Knik Arm Alaska tidal in-stream power plant / author[s], Brian Polagye and Mirko Previsic ; contributor, Roger Bedard. Hosted by the
Alaska State Publications Program.