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 Looking down the descent to Clovelly harbour. Bristol Channel can be seen above the rooftops |
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Clovelly has one of the smallest natural harbours in the world
'Clovelly' is a village on the north
Devon coast,
England about twelve miles west of
Bideford. It is a major tourist attraction, famous for its history, extremely steep car-free
cobbled main street,
donkeys, and beautiful location looking out over the
Bristol Channel. Thick
woods shelter it and render the climate so mild that even tender plants flourish.
Access
The village itself is not accessible by motor vehicle and space at the harbour is extremely limited.
Visitors usually park in a municipal car park above the town, at the end of the B3237 road; service buses make calls at the car park also.
There is a visitor centre (consisting of a barrier to the village, a cafe and small gift and guidebook shop) at the car park and a number of tourist-oriented shop units. Visitors can enter the village through the visitor centre. There is a charge of £4.95 (in 2007) to do so. There are reduced prices for children but not for other concession groups. It is possible to walk to the village without using the visitor centre (and without paying the charge) by using the access road at the car park entrance. This is not well signed to encourage people to enter via the visitor centre. A Hackney Carriage (taxi) service operates in summer using Land Rover vehicles, between the car park and the harbour, at the foot of the main street; the charge for this is £2.20 per person each way (in 2007), and the entrance fee at the visitor centre is not payable.
There is a public road down to the harbour (followed by the Land Rover taxi), although parking at the bottom is all private, and there is a sign warning visitors against going down that road
The Village
Clovelly used to be a fishing village and in
1901 had a population of 621. It is a cluster of
wattle and daub cottages on the sides of a rocky cleft; its main street resembles a cobbled staircase which descends 400 feet (120 metres) to the
pier, too steeply to allow wheeled traffic.
Sledges are used for the movement of goods. The street is lined with houses, and a small number of shops and a cafe and a public house.
All Saints' Church, restored in
1866, is late
Norman, containing several monuments to the Cary family,
lords of the manor for 600 years.
The surrounding scenery is famous for its richness of colour, especially in the grounds of Cary Court, and along ''The Hobby'', a road cut through the woods and overlooking the sea. The
South West Coast Path National Trail runs past the village, and the section from Clovelly to Hartland Quay is particularly spectacular.
Famous residents
The novelist
Charles Kingsley lived here as a child from 1831 to 1836, while his father, the Reverend Charles Kingsley served first as Senior Curate then as Rector. Later, in 1855, his novel ''Westward Ho!'' did much to stimulate interest in Clovelly and to boost its tourist trade.
Clovelly is also described by
Charles Dickens in ''
A Message from the Sea'' and was painted by
Rex Whistler, whose cameos of the village were used on a china service by
Wedgwood.
The surgeon
Campbell De Morgan (1811 – 1876), who first speculated that cancer arose locally and then spread more widely in the body, was born here.
Clovelly is mentioned in passing by
Rudyard Kipling in ''
Stalky & Co.'' as being located to the west of the boys' academy.
Deliveries by sledge
The impossibility of getting vehicular access to the main street has led to deliveries being made by sledge. This is not done as a tourist attraction but as a matter of simple practicality. Goods being delivered are pulled down the hill from an upper car park. Refuse is pulled down the hill to a waiting vehicle at the harbour.
Donkeys
In former times, deliveries were made on the backs of donkeys. This is no longer practised, but some donkeys are kept at the village, for children's rides in a paddock by the main car park, and for photo opportunities in the street.
Their continuation is under threat from the estate owners, and the donkeys' welfare depends upon donations from visitors. The donkeys have their own website www.clovellydonkeys.co.uk
External links
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Official web site
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Photos of Clovelly
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Genuki Clovelly
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Clovelly Donkeys
Further reading
★ Charles Kingsley, ''
Westward Ho!'', 1855
References
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