A wide range of
equipment is used during
rock climbing. The most popular types of climbing equipment are briefly described in this article. The article on
protecting a climb describes equipment commonly used to protect a climber against the consequences of a fall.
Rope and climber's shoes
''See also the
Glossary of climbing terms for more equipment descriptions.''
Rope, cord and webbing
Climbing ropes typically consist of a core (kern) of long twisted fibres and an outer sheath (mantle) of woven coloured fibres (hence the term
kernmantle construction). The core provides about 80% of the tensile strength, while the sheath is a durable layer that protects the core and gives the rope desirable handling characteristics. The ropes used for climbing can be divided into two classes: dynamic ropes and static ropes. Dynamic ropes have a certain amount of elasticity and are usually used as
belay ropes. When a climber falls, the rope stretches, reducing the maximum force experienced by both the climber and his equipment. Static ropes are much less elastic, and are usually used in anchoring systems. They are also used for
abseiling (rappeling) as they reduce bounciness and make it easier for a person to descend.
Webbing is flat rope: it has no core. It is a versatile component of climbing equipment. Modern webbing is often made from nylon, and is quite strong—one-inch (25-mm) tubular ''climb-spec'' nylon webbing has a tensile strength of about 20
kN (4000
pounds)
[1]. Webbing is usually tied (using a
water knot or
beer knot) or sewn into a loop and is then known as a ''runner'' or ''
sling''.
Runners have many uses, including anchor extension or equalisation, makeshift
harnesses, carrying equipment and as a component of
quickdraws.
Most beginning climbers do not invest in a climbing rope until they've had a few chances to see if they like the sport. Climbers who only climb at a climbing gym may not buy their own ropes, as most gyms have set routes and supply the ropes at each climbing station.
Carabiners
Carabiners are metal loops with spring-loaded gates (openings), used as connectors. Almost all carabiners for recreational climbing are made from
aluminum alloy.
Carabiners exist in various forms; the shape of the carabiner and the type of gate varies according to the use for which it is intended. There are two major varieties: locking and non-locking carabiners. Locking carabiners offer a method of preventing the gate from opening when in use. Locking carabiners are used for important connections, such as at the anchor point or a belay device. There are four different types of locking carabiners, including a twist-lock and a thread-lock. Non-locking carabiners are commonly found as a component of quickdraws.
Carabiners are made with many different types of gates including wire-gate, bent-gate, and straight-gate. The different gates have different strengths and uses. Most locking carabiners utilize a straight-gate. Bent-gate and wire-gate carabiners are usually found on the rope-end of quickdraws, as they facilitate easier rope clipping than a straight gate. Wire gates are also lighter then other forms and are less likely to vibrate open.
Carabiners are also known by many slang names including ''crab'' (seldom used) and ''biner'' (pronounced beaner).
Steel krabs are normally used by instructors when working with groups as the are harder wearing then aluninum alloy, but are much heavier.
Quickdraws
Quickdraws (referred to as ''draws'' by many climbers) are used by climbers to attach ropes to bolt anchors or protection. They allow the rope to run through with minimal friction. Quickdraws usually consist of two non-locking carabiners connected by a short, pre-sewn loop of webbing. They come in varying lengths, and some even come as extendable slings. DMM makes a wire-gate carabiner with a pulley built in on the end to reduce rope drag on the end of a quickdraw.
Harnesses
A harness is used for attaching a rope to a person. The majority of harnesses used in climbing are worn around the pelvis, although other types may be seen occasionally, such as chest and full body versions.
Different types of climbing warrant particular features for harnesses. Sport climbers typically use minimalistic harnesses, some with sewn-on gear loops. Alpine climbers will choose lightweight harnesses, perhaps with detachable leg loops. Big wall climbers prefer lots of padding. There are also full body harnesses for children, whose pelvis bones are not wide enough to be safely held inverted by a sit harness. Some climbers use full body harnesses when there is a chance of inverting, or when carrying a heavy bag. There are also chest harnesses, which are used only in combination with a sit harness; this combination provides the same advantages as a full body harness. However, test results from UIAA show that chest harnesses can put more impact on the neck than sit harnesses, making them slightly more dangerous to use.
Apart from these harnesses, there are also caving and canyoning harnesses, which all serve different purposes. For example, a caving harness is made of tough waterproof and unpadded material, with dual attatchment points. Releasing the carabiner from these attatchment points would loosen the harness quickly.
Canyoning harnesses are somewhat like climbing harnesses, often without the padding, but with a seat protector, making it more comfortable to
rappel. These usually have a single attatchment point of
Dyneema.
Belay devices
ATC-XP on locking carabiner
These are mechanical friction brake devices used when
belaying. They allow careful control of the belay rope. Their main purpose is to allow locking of the rope with minimal effort. Many types of belay devices exist, and some of these may additionally be used as descenders, for controlled descent on a rope, that is
abseiling or rappeling.
There are passive camming devices and active camming devices. The difference is that passive camming devices rely on the brake hand and a carabiner to lock off the rope. Sticht plates and ATCs are examples of passive camming devices.
Active camming devices have a built-in mechanism that locks off the rope without the help of any other pieces of equipment. A GriGri is an example. The offset cam in the GriGri locks off the rope automatically to catch a falling climber, much like a seatbelt in a car locks off to hold a passenger securely. The GriGri fails at around 9 kN of force.
However, a GriGri, with its technology, often makes belayers become less vigilant. The GriGri is not a hands-free belay device. One mistake with the GriGri is reverse threading it. Reverse threading is to thread the GriGri the wrong way around, rendering the camming action useless. However, in a fall, with a reverse threaded GriGri, bending the rope sharply under the GriGri provides more than enough friction to hold a falling climber.
An example of traditional belay is the Body Belay or the Hip Belay, where the rope is wrapped around the body to provide enough friction to catch a climber. This is often used in Alpine climbing, where the routes are easy, and the belay must be fast.
Ice climbers often use a boot belay, where the rope is wrapped around one boot, thus providing friction.
Rappel devices (Descenders)
These devices are friction brakes which are designed for descending ropes. Some
belay devices can be used as descenders, but there are descenders that are not practical for belaying, since it is too difficult to feed rope through.
Figure eight
Sometimes just called "eight", this device is most commonly used as a descender, but may also be used as a belay device in the absence of more appropriate equipment.
It is an aluminium (or occasionally steel) "8" shaped device, but comes in several varieties. Its main advantage is efficient heat dissipation. A square eight, used in rescue applications, is better for rappelling than the traditional 8. Because of the "ears" or "wings" on the rescue 8, there is less chance of forming a girth hitch whilst rappelling very quickly.
A figure eight descender
Figure eights allow fast but controlled descent on a rope. They are easy to set up and are effective in dissipating the heat caused by friction but have a tendency to put a twist in the rope. This twisting only occurs during improper use of the 8. Holding the brake hand off to the side twists the rope, whereas holding the brake hand straight down, parallel to the body, allows a controlled descent without twisting the rope. Because of the many bends it puts into the rope, an 8 descender can wear a rope quicker than a tube style belay/rappel device. Many sport climbers also avoid them because of the extra bulk an 8 puts on the rack. However, many ice climbers prefer to use the 8, because it is much easier to thread with stiff or frozen rope.
Rescue eight
A rescue eight is a variation of a figure eight, with "ears" or "wings" which prevent the rope from "locking up" or creating a girth hitch, thus stranding the rappeller on the rope. Rescue eights are frequently made of steel, rather than aluminum.
Rack
These consist of a 'U' shaped frame which is attached to the belayer's harness, onto which fit multiple bars. The rope is weaved through these bars to provide sufficient friction.
Ascenders
Ascenders are mechanical devices for ascending on a rope. They are also called
Jumars, after a popular brand.
Jumars perform the same functionality as friction knots but are stronger, faster, safer and less effort is needed to use them. A Jumar employs a cam which allows the device to slide freely in one direction but tightly grip the rope when pulled on in the opposite direction. To prevent a jumar from accidentally coming off the rope, a locking carabiner is used. The Jumar is first attached to the climber's harness by a piece of webbing or sling, and then the Jumar is clipped onto the rope and locked. Two ascenders are normally used to climb a fixed rope. For climbing a fixed rope attached to snow anchors on a steep slope, only one Jumar is used as the other hand is used for holding the
ice axe.
Protection devices
Protection devices, collectively known as ''rock protection'' or ''pro'', provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock. These devices may be categorized as ''passive'' (nuts, Hexentrics, etc.) or ''active'' (
SLCDs).
Typical nuts and a nut tool
Nuts
Main articles: Nut (climbing)
Nuts are manufactured in many different varieties. In their simplest form, they are just a small block of metal attached to a loop of cord or wire. The most popular styles are tapers and
Hexentrics. They are sometimes referred to by the
slang term, ''wires''.
Nuts are used by simply wedging them into narrowing cracks in the rock, then giving them a tug to set them.
Hexcentrics
Main articles: hexcentric
Hexcentrics, usually called ''hexes'', are a type of nut, a hollow eccentric hexagonal prism with tapered ends, usually threaded with tape. They are manufactured by several firms, with a range of sizes varying from about 10mm thick to 100mm wide. Sides may be straight or curved.
Spring loaded camming devices
Main articles: Spring loaded camming device
These consist of three or four
cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, in such a way that pulling on the shaft connected to the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. The SLCD is used like a
syringe, by pulling the cams via a "trigger" (a small handle) which forces them closer, inserting it into a crack or pocket in the rock, and then releasing the trigger. The springs make the cams expand and grip the rock face securely. A climbing rope may then be attached to the end of the stem via a
sling and
carabiner.
They are often referred to as ''cams'' or ''friends®''.
Tricams
Main articles: Tricam
A ''Tricam'' is a passive or active device consisting of a shaped aluminium block attached to a length of
tape (webbing). The block is shaped so that pulling on the tape makes it cam against the crack, gripping the rock tighter. It requires careful placement so that it does not loosen when not loaded. It is generally not as easy to place as a
SLCD but is much cheaper and lighter, and is the only thing that will work in some situations like quarry drill-holes and limestone pockets. The smaller sizes can work well in old piton scars. They can also be used Passively as nuts.
Indoor training equipment
Various items of equipment are employed during climbing-specific training.
Grip savers
A small device that can help in developing the antagonist muscles to those used while gripping by the hand. Use of such a device can prevent ligament injuries that are frequently experienced by climbers.
Fingerboards
An apparatus chiefly used for improving grip strength and practicing grip techniques. They generally consist of a variety of different-sized pockets and ridges that one may hang from, or upon which pull-ups can be performed.
These are usually mounted above a doorway, or elsewhere with room to allow the user's body to hang freely. Also called ''hangboards.''
Campus boards
Main articles: Campus board
A series of horizontal rungs attached to an overhanging surface that may be climbed up and down without the aid of the feet. When used properly, campus boards can improve finger strength and so-called "contact strength".
Specialist clothing
In the early days of climbing, many would have considered specialised clothing to be cheating. In fact, the first climbers considered an untucked shirt or unbuttoned sport jacket a sign of weakness. Several climbers even chose to climb bare foot, an act that modern climbers would find amazing. In the 80s and early 90s the trend was to wear tight brightly-colored clothes. The trend is to wear more loose clothes now.
Climbing shoes
Main articles: Climbing shoe
Specifically designed
foot wear worn for
climbing. To increase the grip of the
foot on a
climbing wall or rock face due to
friction, the shoe is covered with a vulcanized rubber layer. Usually, the shoes are only a few
millimetres thick and have a very snug fit around the feet. Some have foam padding on the heel to make descents and rappels more comfortable.
Belay gloves
A Belay glove
Despite being shunned by the many climbers who claim that belay gloves reduce grip on and control over the rope, belay gloves are a useful aid for belaying on long climbs. In particular, when lowering a climber they remove the possibility of rope burn and the subsequent involuntary release of the rope.
Belay gloves are constructed from either leather or a synthetic substitute. They typically have heat resistant padding on the palm and fingers.
It is very important to use gloves if using a classic or body belay.
Miscellaneous equipment
Helmet
A Petzel Elios climbing helmet designed for caving and mountaineering
An often disregarded item of safety equipment that has saved many climbers from serious injury or death. A helmet is a tough item of headwear that primarily protects the skull against impacts. In well-developed and popular climbing areas, these impacts are more commonly caused by falling objects (such as pebbles or climbing equipment) than by a falling climber hitting the rock or ground.
Depending upon the type of climbing being undertaken, helmets are more or less common. There are a number of valid reasons for a climber to choose not to wear a helmet, including concerns about weight, reduction in agility or added encumbrances. However, sometimes the reason can be just vanity. In a gym environment there is no discernible advantage to wearing a helmet but on multi-pitch adventure routes or ice climbing routes only the most foolhardy would not wear a helmet. Between these two extremes, a personal judgement call needs to be made.
Many climbers refer to helmets as ''brain buckets''.
Tape
Medical tape is useful to both prevent and repair minor injuries. For example, tape is often used to fix
flappers. Many climbers, who choose not to rest adequately, use tape to bind fingers or wrists to prevent recurring tendon problems. Tape is also highly desirable for protecting hands on climbing routes that consist mostly of repeated
hand jamming.
"Tape" is also used to refer to nylon webbing.
Haul bag
A large and often unwieldy bag into which supplies and climbing equipment may be thrown. A rucksack or day pack often has a webbing haul loop on the top edge.
Haul bags are often affectionately known as "pigs" due to their unwieldy nature.
Gear sling
A gear sling is usually used by trad or big wall climbers for when they have too much gear to fit on the gear loops of their harnesses. The most simple forms are homemade slings of webbing, and the most elaborate forms have padding and two slings on each side.
Bouldering mat
Main articles: bouldering mat
A thick mat used to soften landings or to cover objects that would be hazardous in the event of a fall. They typically consist of a 2-6
inch thick foam section covered with a robust fabric covering. Many brands have integral handles and may easily fold into a reasonable dimension for carrying. Also known by the term ''crash pad'' or ''sketch pad.''
Chalk
Gymnasts' chalk is a powder that improves grip by absorbing sweat. It is primarily
magnesium carbonate but often with added
magnesium sulfate which acts as a drying agent.
For environmental reasons, the use of chalk is controversial in some areas. In areas where rain is infrequent (or under overhangs on any cliff) bold and unsightly chalk marks can build up on popular routes. In places where rain is more common, the chalk residue can form thick deposits. As a result, chalk coloured to match various rock types and biodegradable alternatives are now becoming available.
Chalk bag
Chalk Bags with chalk ball
These are hand-sized fabric bags for holding climbers' chalk. They are usually attached to the back of a waist belt for easy access during a climb.
The powdered chalk may be loose in the bag, or, increasingly, a ''chalk sock'', or ''chalk ball'', is filled with the chalk and this is placed into the chalk bag. Chalk socks are pouches made from a porous material that allows some chalk dust to be excreted when squeezed or rubbed.
POF / Resin
POF or Resin is sometimes used in
bouldering. It is principally used to increase friction between the climber's shoes and the rock by providing a slightly stickier surface. It is made of dried tree resin in the form of a powder, and is sometimes mixed with chalk. The powder is usually bound inside a cloth with suitable cord, forming a ball at one end and a free cloth at the other. The resin may then be applied by tapping the resin ball on the rock. Excess is removed by whipping the rock with the free cloth. It is considered cheating in many areas and its use frowned upon due to the build up it can leave on the rock.
Nut tool
A small, but vital, piece of equipment, also known as a ''nut key''. It is made from a flat piece of sheet steel, about 20
cm long, with a hook at one end and the other end shaped into a handle. It is used to extract, from cracks in the rock,
nuts which can not be extracted by hand, especially when the nut has supported a climber's weight or arrested a fall. It may need to be hammered (possibly using a stone) in order to shift a particularly stubborn nut. Some models also have a pair of hooks at the handle end, which can be used to pull the trigger of a deeply-seated
camming device.
Rope bag
A bag with a tarp, specially designed for storing and protecting climbing rope, usually unfoldable to provide a flat piece of material to place the rope on. However, when conditions are very wet, a large plastic bag such as a garbage bag is often used.
Standards
There are two major standards bodies for certifying the safety and reliability of climbing equipment:
★
CEN (European Committee for Standardisation)
★
UIAA (International Federation of Mountaineering Associations)
Any products sold in Europe must, by law, be certified to the relevant standards. There is no such requirement in many other countries, although most manufacturers voluntarily follow UIAA or CEN standards.
External links
★
Spadout Wiki Climbing Gear List
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