'Chogolisa' (or 'Bride Peak') is a
mountain in the
Karakoram region of
Pakistan. It lies near the
Baltoro Glacier in the
Concordia region which is home to some of the highest peaks of the world. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest on the SW face (Chogolisa I) rises to 7,665 metres (25,147 ft.). The second highest at 7,654 metres on the NE side (Chogolisa II) is the one named Bride Peak by
Martin Conway in
1892.
In
1909, a party led by
Duke of the Abruzzi reached 7,498m from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further.
Hermann Buhl and
Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in
1957 after they had successfully summitted
Broad Peak behind
Marcus Schmuck and
Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On
June 25 they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706m on the SW ridge. Bad weather forced them to retreat and on
June 27, Buhl fell through a
cornice and disappeared. His body has never been found.
In
1958, a
Japanese expedition from
Kyoto University led by T. Kawabara made the
first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing M. Fujihira and K. Hirai on top.
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on
August 2 1975 by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an
Austrian expedition led by
Eduard Koblmuller. Koblmuller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a cornice on the ascent; fortunately, he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.
See also
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Baltoro Glacier
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Northern Areas
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Eight-thousander
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List of mountains in Pakistan
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List of highest mountains
References
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Everest News: Chogolisa/Bride Peak
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Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth
External links
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Chogolisa on Peakware
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Chogolisa das Grab Hermann Buhls auf BroadPeak.at (German Language)
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Chogolisa photos by Kelly Cheng
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Northern Pakistan detailed placemarks in Google Earth
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South African-Dutch Chogolisa Expedition 2004 with trip reports and general info