'Broad Peak' (originally named 'K3') is the
12th highest mountain on
Earth, located on the border of China-Pakistan, and
4th highest in
Pakistan. Broad Peak is part of the
Gasherbrum massif and is about 8 kilometres (5 miles) from
K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometres (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak". Broad Peak is known locally as Faichan Kangri. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Baltis.
The
first ascent of Broad Peak was made on
June 9,
1957 by
Fritz Wintersteller,
Marcus Schmuck,
Kurt Diemberger, and
Hermann Buhl of an
Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on
May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash
first ascent of '
Skil Brum' peak (7,360m) on
June 19,
1957 in pure
Alpine style in 53 hours.
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby '
Chogolisa' peak (7,654m) on
June 27,
1957.
Books
Richard Sale has written the following book:
★ ''Broad Peak'', 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
Marcus Schmuck has written the following book:
★ ''Broad Peak 8047m'' Meine Bergfahrten mit
Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
★ ''Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights)'' by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
Time Line
★
1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of
Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.
★
1957 First ascent
★
1986 Between July 28th and August 4th, twelve out of fourteen Slovenian (then Yugoslavian) climbers successfully summited on Broad Peak. Marija Štremfelj was the first Slovenian/Yugoslavian woman to summit 8.000 m peak.
See also
★
List of Mountains in Pakistan
★
Highest Mountains of the World
★
List of Austrian mountaineers
External links
★
First Ascent: The official Website of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957 on BroadPeak.org
★
History of First Ascent and Related Literature from Canadian Alpine Journal
★
Some History of Broad Peak on EverestNews.com
★
Broad Peak on Peakware