'Baltistan' (
Urdu: بلتستان) , also known as 'بلتیول (Baltiyul)' in the
Balti language, is a region to the north of
Kashmir, bordering
Xinjiang Autonomous Region of
China. It is situated in the
Karakoram mountains just to the south of
K2, the world's second highest mountain. It is an extremely mountainous region, with an average altitude of over 3,350 m (11,000 ft). It is inhabited principally by
Balti Muslims of
Tibetan descent who converted from
Tibetan Buddhism prior to the 16th century.
Baltistan was an independent state but was occupied by the Raja (King) of Kashmir in the ninteenth century. In 1947 when India and Pakistan gained independence, it was still part of Kashmir. Now the region is divided between
India and
Pakistan. The districts of
Skardu (Skardo) and
Ganche) which is a part of
Pakistan Administered Kashmir (PAK), is a disputed territory claimed by both India and Pakistan, but controlled by Pakistan, a
de facto federal dependency of Pakistan administered directly from
Islamabad; its main town is
Skardu. It contains the highest peaks of the Karakoram, including
K2. Indian Baltistan (the district of
Kargil) is located in the north of the Indian Kashmir
Jammu and Kashmir.
Geography

Karakorum Highway and Indus
Baltistan is often called "little
Tibet". The adjoining territory of Baltistan forms the west extremity of Tibet, whose natural limits here are the
Indus from its abrupt southward bend in 74 45 E., and the mountains to the north and west, separating a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the fiercer
Aryan tribes beyond.
Muslim writers about the 16th century speak of Baltistan as Little Tibet, and of
Ladakh as Great Tibet, thus ignoring the really Great Tibet altogether. The Balti call
Gilgit a Tibet, and Dr Leitner says that the
Chilasi call themselves But or Tibetans; but, although these districts may have been overrun by the Tibetans, or have received rulers of that race, the
ethnological frontier coincides with the geographical one given. Baltistan is a mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being
gneiss. In the north is the
Baltoro glacier, the largest out of the
arctic regions, 35 miles long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are 25,000 ft and to the north 28,265 ft. The Indus, as in Lower Ladakh, runs in a narrow
gorge, widening for nearly 20 m. after receiving the
Shyok. The capital,
Skardu, a scattered collection of houses, stands here, perched on a rock 7250 ft. above the sea. The house roofs are flat, occupied only in part by a second storey, the remaining space being devoted to drying
apricots, the chief staple of the main valley, which supports little cultivation. But the rapid slope westwards is seen generally in the vegetation.
Birch,
plane,
spruce and ''Pinus excelsa'' appear; the fruits are finer, including
pomegranate,
pear,
peach,
vine and
melon, and where irrigation is available, as in the North
Shigar, and at the
deltas of the tributary valleys, the crops are more luxuriant and varied.
Baltistan, actually a complex of beautiful valleys, is situated amid the famous ranges of Himalaya and Karakoram, straddling the river Indus, between Ladakh and Gilgit. Some of the highest peaks of the world - Chogo-ri (K-2), Mashabrum (K-1) and Gashabrum group of peaks besides beautiful glaciers like Sia-chen, Baltoro, Biafo and Chogo-lungma are situated in this region. The dimensions of Baltistan have been fluctuating over the course of history. It is currently smaller than ever before, with an area of 17,000 square kms. and an estimated population of 4,00,000. Baltistan consists of six major valleys like Skardo, Rongdo, Shigar, Khaplo, Kharmang and Gultari. Baltistan presents a beautiful contrast of high peaks, deep gorges, straddling glaciers, vast deserts, sandy plains, turquoise blue lakes, colourful panorama, lush green oases and villages.
Baltistan consists of five valleys namely Kharmang (Kartakhsha), Khaplu, Skardu, Shigar and Rondu (Rongyul). Important villages include Kharmang, Tolti, Ghasing, Mehdi Abad (Parkuta) in Kharmang valley.
Baltistan region
'Baltistan' has two
districts namely
Skardu and
Ganche districts of Baltistan Division of the disputed '
Kashmir Region' of
Northern Pakistan; note
Khaplu is by far the coldest and dampest place in within Pakistan temperatures reaching below -20 degrees Celsius.
★ SKARDU
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Gultari
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Kharmang
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Rondu
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Shigar
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★ '
Skardu' (the
capital)
★ GANCHE
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Khaplu
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Mashabrum
Ghanche (''Gangche'') is the main part of Baltistan. Ghanche's population is about 0.5 million and purely
Balti-speaking. 80 percent of the population belong to the the ''sofi noorbakhshi'' sect. Chourbat, Khaplu, Ghwari, Thaly, Brah, Chourbat, Saltro and Hushey are the main valleys of the district.
The above administrative divisions were created by the Government of Pakistan. Historically, Baltistan consisted of the present day Baltistan(District Skardu and Ghanche) and Kargil, which is now under the Indian control. Kargil is linked to Baltistan through Kharmang valley, and Gultari. Gultari also borders with district Astore, which had been part of the terrotary of the Balti ruling family rMakpons. In fact, the Raja of Astore is a rMakpon.
Writers and historians of different nations have given different names to Baltistan. Central Tibetans have called it Nang-mgon. The historical reference appearing in Ptolemy's - BYALTAE- dates back to the 2nd century BC. The Chinese have named it Palolo, Palilo and Palor. Arabian historians such as Al-Beruni render it Balorthe Arabic version of the Chinese name, which was later Persianised as Baloristan. As the area is geographically located on the Tibetan plateau and for centuries remained a part of the Tibetan Empire, the majority of population being ethnically and linguistically of Tibetan origin, Indian historians have thus named it Little Tibet. The people themselves refer to their homeland as Balti-yul (Land of Baltis) which suggests a link with Ptolemy's BYALTAE. Baltistan is the Persian rendering of Balti-yul.
Historical Perspective
The first reference about the area (Baltistan) occurs in the Epic of King Gesar (Kesar), but in a fragmentary shape. Reliable historical records date from the last days of Palolashahi rulers of Baltistan (Palolo) who, according to some rock-inscriptions, ruled the area of Ladakh and Gilgit too from the 5th century to 727 AD. In 727 AD the Tibetan king Khri-Lde-gtsug-bRtan invaded Baltistan and in 737 AD the Tibetans conquered Brushal (modern Gilgit) annexing these to their empire. These areas remained provinces of the Tibetan empire till the death of the last king of Tibet Glang-Darma around 880/900 AD, when the foremost western provinces, Baltistan and Brushal became independent. Since then till the 12th century AD, Baltistan remained under several petty chiefs under the overlordship of the Shagari-tribe of Skardo. In 12/13th century AD, a young fugitive namely Ibrahim Shah, migrated to Baltistan from Iran via Kashmir, managed to obtain power in Skardo and founded the Maqpon Dynasty which subsequently ruled the area for twenty-four succeeding generations. During the reign of ninth Maqpon ruler namely Ghota-Cho-Senge, one Saint Syed Ali Hamadani introduced Islam to the region. In 1531 AD Sultan Saeed Khan, the ruler of Kashgar invaded Ladakh and Baltistan. Ali Sher Khan Anchan the most powerful king, fifteenth in the kings of the Maqpon Dynasty, conquered Ladakh and Western Tibet up to Purang in the east and Gilgit and Chitral in the west during his reign (1590-1625 AD).
Similarly his grandson Shah Murad conquered all these areas for the second time between 1655-1680 AD. For about two hundred years all these areas remained tributaries to the Maqpon kings of Baltistan. A comparatively new, more graceful culture and tradition of fine-arts flourished during this era. The Maqpon kings were great patrons and admirers of the new culture and society. In 1779 AD the Afghans of Kashmir invaded Skardo but could not sustain their control any longer. In 1840 AD the Dogras of Jammu conquered Baltistan and annexed it to their State, but in 1947-48 AD the area was annexed to Pakistan. However, Pakistan has maintained its status as the disputed area of Kashmir.
See also
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Balti language
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Balti people
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Baltit Fort
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Karakoram
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Karakoram Highway
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Skardu
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Skardu Airport
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Ladakh
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Chourbat Valley is an important valley of Baltistan; Chowar, Siksa, Thongmos, Sokhmos, Piun, Siari, Frano, Partuk, Kosting, Kowas, Marcha, Dawoo, Kalan, Lonkha, Thang, Tiaqsi, Turtuk, Cholongkha and Bioqdang are big towns of Chourbat valley.
References
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External links
Explore Pakistan Tourism http://explorepak.com
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The Changing Northern Areas
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Pakistan's Northern Areas dilemma
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Tourism Northeran Areas
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Pakistan's Northern Areas